So I got this far... Now what?

I have a 94 so things are a bit different as discussed here before. I had to bend the relocation brackets for the washer bottle a bit and dissregard the directions on which side to mount the bracket on for the left side of the washer bottle but it worked fine and the right side bracket needed a tweak to let the cruise controle cable to rout with no chaifing against the support. I had to relocate some wire harness under the second battery tray to under the air filter housing but it was as easy as a disconnect and reconnect. There is an AC hose that runs directly under the tray but I dont see that as a problem, yet. The washer bottle came really close to the AC hoses going into the firewall but after a tweek and bend cleared by 1/2" The air chamber found on 93 and 94 was as easy as a cut off tool and some primer, (need to paint it later as I ran out of black painting the frame and axles.) and as you can see the hose within a hose solved the problem of finding a new hose for the application. I used the smaller hose and cut 2" off and stuffed it in the larger hose and gave it some lube and slid it on the air cleaner assy. Very tight fit. Trimed a bit off the tray and it fit right in, dropped the second battery in and I am ready to wire up. I am placing the Sure Power isolator on the back side of the batt tray. Now the $250,000 question... Would someone please tell me how to wire the alt to the isolator. Detailed instructions for an idiot please. I understand how to do the battery cables but the alt wiring has me stumped. what wires and colors are the things I am looking for. The directions say to remove all the battery wires and connect them to the seperator but the wires are held in with a harness plug. What to do with that? Cut and splice or something simpler. I'm a wiring dolt so go easy on me. I have read the archives and I don't really see anything that relates to the alt wires Thanks for the input in advance.

Sure Power unit.

It's really easy. Run a cable from the + post on the alt direct to the "A" stud on the isolator. This is in addition to the OEM wiring. That is, the OEM wiring does not change.

Size cable make a difference?

photogod said:

Size cable make a difference?

Click to expand...

yes, the stock alternator is 80 amp, when you look at a wiring chart 8 guage would give you 78 amps capacity and 6 gauge 101 amps, I would go with 6 gauge from the alternator to isolator and from isolator to batteries, for that current level you need good terminals, the factory alternaor wiring is a bit weak IMO, I would not let that be your guide, go heavy. you want fine stranded cable, tined cpper if you can find it for a reasonable price, tinned coper wire is easier to find in coastal areas.

I think you will also need an 100 amp or so fusable link or circuit breaker in that line,

now what about paralleling? are you going to use a marine switch? do you have a winch to power? are you going to replace the facotry main battery cables?

what kind of system do you want? main and aux that parallel to self jump? or an either or setup?

RavenTai said:

yes, the stock alternator is 80 amp, when you look at a wiring chart 8 guage would give you 78 amps capacity and 6 gauge 101 amps, I would go with 6 gauge from the alternator to isolator and from isolator to batteries, for that current level you need good terminals, the factory alternaor wiring is a bit weak IMO, I would not let that be your guide, go heavy. you want fine stranded cable, tined cpper if you can find it for a reasonable price, tinned coper wire is easier to find in coastal areas.

I think you will also need an 100 amp or so fusable link or circuit breaker in that line,

now what about paralleling? are you going to use a marine switch? do you have a winch to power? are you going to replace the facotry main battery cables?

what kind of system do you want? main and aux that parallel to self jump? or an either or setup?

Click to expand...

I'm looking at an either or set up. I am trying to run my winch and some aux stuff like a fridge, an invertor, driving lights, CB and some other small stuff. I want to keep it simple because I'm simple. I'm going to keep the original cables on the starter batt unless you talk me out of it. I just want the isolator to charge both batts. I am going to come off the aux batt with a fuse box to run the other stuff and run wire to the rear for the fridge and a couple 12 volt outlets and cables for a receiver mount winch unless i can fab a way for the 9000 to mount where the spare was, but I was thinking of mounting a water tank there. I think I have that all in hand but the Alt wires are giving me a head ache. I know it will be plain a Mud as soon as someone splains it to me but I have my doubts right now. I am listing a photo and I am thinking the wire under the rubber boot is the one I want to tie into the isolator as that is the charging wire (+) to the starting batt? Yes. That connects the start batt to the isolator. Then another wire (You suggest #6) from the Alt to the isolator which supplies the charge to the batts. Then I need an "exciter" wire to the isolator and I dont know which wire that is. The distructions say it is the wire labled IG (ignition I assume) and I should tap into that and use a 6 amp breaker in the line. Do you have a color for that wire? I think that's what I need to know. Then #6 (or heavier?) to the aux batt and frame ground. There is a West Marine really close and they have the tinned copper for marine applications and water proof fuse boxes as well. Thanks a ton for your help!!!

Yes the single wire under the boot is the connection to the isolator. I don't understand why it was suggested earlier that you leave the factory wire from the alt output to the starting battery. I ran a #2 wire from that post to the isolator and then a #2 lead to each pos batt terminal (which IMO is the proper wiring).

For the excitor wire, I am always caution to give a wire color because of differences in production but I believe mine was blk/yellow. The best thing to do is get a test light and check each of the wires in the plug on the back of the alt. Then turn on the ign and see which one has power only with ign in the on position (center wire????).

I have seen suggestions to use the alt fuse in the fuse block as the exciter source but it requires at least 1500 rpm to get voltage there and so on startup you have a period of time with no charging.

Photogod,

Could you repost the photo/diagram that you guys keep referring to, or maybe just email it to me?

Thanks, I'm laying my project out now and find myself in the same "what hooks up to where on the solenoid (in my case)" quandry.

I didn't use a solenoid so my fitment is different than what you want to do I went from the alt to the isolator to the two batteries with no solenoid in between. I took the easy way out.

Unless you mean that you are using the solenoid instead of the isolator. But I still cant help cause I know nothing about the solenoid set up.

Sorry.