Dry Oil Filter on 2F

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The F 1.5/ 2F oil system does have the filter "in line" with the bearings. That was it's great advantage.

I just don't think there's any adjustable pressure relief system built in, but I could be wrong. Don't have any illustrations, either.
 
Wix 51515 oil filter is said on their site to have the anti-drain back valve...if I leave the engine sit over night and change oil in the morning there is no oil in the filter.


Have been told by Wix that they make NAPA gold filter for this application.




:meh:
 
Poser,I thought that might be the case. I wonder if the reverse flow sucks the oil from the filter or back-flow flap isn't tough enough. Seems like I should be able to remove the oil filter bracket and put a check valve in there.
I know some have said that the engines work fine as is, true but there has to be some benefit if oil pressure comes up in 1/2 second instead of 6 seconds (mechanical gauge with tube)like mine. I also wonder if this problem occurs in an F motor with a canister, they put the return hole in the tube close to the top so it wouldn't empty.
 
Old post. I’ve disliked my 85 3F taking 6 seconds to build oil pressure on first start for years. Pisses me off Toyota designed the damn thing that way. Been looking for a decent remote filter kit so I can set it up so it doesn’t all drain back into the oil pan. Also, I purchased a K&N HP3001 with anti-drain back thinking that would solve the problem. Didn’t make a difference.

Didn’t see anyone really say if it is believed to cause significant damage to bearings, having to fill the oil filter with each cold start of the day before building pressure. It sure stresses me out, no need for unnecessary wear and tear on the engine for no reason other than Mr. T being a delinquent.
 
You need to build a pre-oiler. Metal can that can take like 150psi that holds say 2 quarts. Put a cable controlled check valve in the bottom of the can. Connect to valve into the oil filter line. Pull (hold) the cable to open the valve, start engine, let oil pressure pump oil into the can, release cable. Re-fill oil level in engine. Next time you need start the engine, pull cable to release the pressurized oil into the system and then start the engine it, will build pressure quickly. Hold valve open to recharge the pre oiler.
 
The best oil change I had ever done was my daughters Audi… take off the lid, pull the canister filter out, drop a new one in…nothing spills.
It’s the same on my Ford 8N tractor
 
Just installed a Derale oil filter relocation kit on the 3F. Cold start was taking a whole six seconds to see any activity on my Autometer oil pressure gauge, now I can see the needle bump just after a second of runtime. Night and day different. When I pulled the oil filter off the block, she was bone dry as always, so every cold start was having to fill an empty oil filter. Anyway, Mr T can go fly a kite. Thankfully I don’t have power steering, which enabled me to use the head to bolt up to. :beer:

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