Dragging rear brakes

[maybe_a_80...]

I recently had this issue. My truck has some rust from having been originally back East, and some small parts were seized up/worn out as a result of the rust. One of the parts that is worn out is the springs that pull/position/hold the disc pads away from the rotors. It should be a simple fix once you have the wheels off and are inspecting behind where the pads sit. I have part numbers if you need them, the parts I needed cost about $40 from "our" local parts guy.

I am having the dealership replace those parts on Wednesday and can try to provide more info after that time.

 

[Cruisin']

Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

It turns out that it was sticky rear calipers. I got the rebuild kit and put that in last night and that has solved it. It was impossible to see how much grunge was in there until the pistons were out. Some brake clean, 400grit and 1500 grit emery paper and new rubber parts and they're good as new.

If anyone's interested in how to rebuild the rear calipers I'd be happy to post up (prolly in the FAQ already though...)

Cheers,
Jason

 

[colby fowler]

I've noticed my rear brakes (disc) dragging on my truck. The first time I noticed it was after driving about 15min, and finishing with an uphill, followed by a couple of moderate stops. When I got out the brakes smelled, and had developed enough heat that the rear rims were warm to the touch. The fronts were cold, though there was warmth coming off the front rotors.

On recommendation from a mechanic friend (and a good one), I replaced the rubber line between the chassis and rear axle, since he said they can detereorate and get blocked up. I cut the old one up, and it looked fine, so I don't think this is the problem. The caliper slides are lubed, the pistons move properly, and the pads are not binding. I also visually checked all the lines to the front, and none are damaged or leaking. Since checking all these things I have found that the rears are still getting warmer than the fronts, though it hasn't gotten hot like the first time, even after a 30min highway drive.

I'm wondering if the proportioning valve could be causing a problem by either sending too much braking to the rear, or causing the pressure not to release after the brakes are off. The truck has no lift, and is not ABS.

I've searched, but haven't found any info on this particular problem. Any ideas?

Hey mate did you end up finding the problem

I’ve got a similar issue where rotor get super hot, got brand new rotors and lines already, I’ve been able to pin point the problem to the hand break as when I pull the hand brake up when driving the noise goes away, I forgot to say that it makes a clacking ticking noise like the shoes are getting thrown around. The calliper are realising when pushed and the bell cranks aren’t seized as I’ve greased them not long ago. Spent time looking over the brake shoes and I can’t find anything that looks out of normal

 

[alia176]

Hey mate did you end up finding the problem

I’ve got a similar issue where rotor get super hot, got brand new rotors and lines already, I’ve been able to pin point the problem to the hand break as when I pull the hand brake up when driving the noise goes away, I forgot to say that it makes a clacking ticking noise like the shoes are getting thrown around. The calliper are realising when pushed and the bell cranks aren’t seized as I’ve greased them not long ago. Spent time looking over the brake shoes and I can’t find anything that looks out of normal

you're responding to a thread from 2009, just so you know. If you're hearing rattling sounds coming from the parking brake area, I'd open everything back up and do a visual check.