Down the rabbit hole... 1995 FJ80 Progress Thread

Joined
Jun 21, 2020
Messages
26
Location
American Rockies
Fantastic input, sir!

That link is ON me- I was googling stuff after a day's work and I swear I was on the Land Cruiser page. My mechanic is definitely good. Thank you for the catch! If a remanufactured steering box is only 290 after I return the core part- I may just pull the trigger on that as my ultimate goal is to give this LC another 150K-200K miles in the long run.

Shocks - Agreed on the shocks part- I will go with Tokico Shocks. I would much rather to return everything to OEM as much as possibly over time.

Exhaust Leak- Gas Mileage is what I am after AND emissions is pretty strict here in Colorado so that is one of the reasons I am just looking at fresh O2 Sensors along with a weld job to just patch it up as much as I possibly until I can get the entire exhaust system replaced but very LOW on my list.

Brakes- at first it felt soft to me but when I finally got a chance to drive it up to the shop to drop it off. The brakes surprised me with its performance and I was able to stop pretty well so that is why I kinda dropped that idea of having the brakes soft - I was thinking of seeing if I could get a bleed done on this braking system just to purge any potential bubbles that developed from sitting for a while.

The shop did not say anything about my brakes/rotors nor the bearings. I may just as well ask him to take a look at those but it looks like it COULD be OK for the time being. If it is okay for the time being then I may hold off on the front rebuild. I am going to opt for a Moly Grease Repack for now to SEE if that gets the clicking to go away but in reality it may be due a full rebuild.

Fluid Changes - 100% agreed with the fluid changes- it is one of the first things I already wanted to do to this - If I was to do the differential fluids and just repack the moly grease and if the seals is in fact bad- would the fresh fluids leak into the Birfields or are the components completely separate?

Airbag light reset would be something that I could tinker with to get it done.

As of now, I do not have a commute as I work from home so this would NOT be a daily driver. Granted, it would allow me to do some errands around town, occasional dog park/hike trips around town, etc. My goal is to work on this effectively over a period of time where I would be able to get it mountain ready for skiing, camping and fishing road trips.

I am not in a rush to do everything at ONCE however I am not strapped with cash. I would like to have a vehicle that I can depend around town and to continually rebuild over time but avoiding redundancy on the repair process AND any further damage to the vehicle if I can avoid it as much as possible you know?

As I mentioned- My ultimate goal is to breathe life into this FJ if I am able to be fortunate to take it at least to 400K on the clock. I was in the mountains recently and right smack in front of me in a town street was a FJ80 exactly in my color in GREAT condition. It's like staring through a gazing mirror or something of that sort...

Thank you for your input. Much appreciated!
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
9,357
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
 
Yes it would be worthwhile to have the brakes bled, if nothing else to change the fluid, as it is hygroscopic and attracts water that then corrodes inside the system.

Change your fluids. If the knuckle grease and diff fluid mix, that's called Birf soup and it is time for your front axle rebuild, but it's not catastrophic. Make sure you clean out the differential vent and hose and fittings.

If you can run a screwdriver, buy and change out hoses as you can. PCV Valve and hose. Throttle body hose, vacuum hoses, intake hose (if needed)

Do the front axle all at once then, or just fill/change fluids. It won't hurt to change them again later.

If you're looking for longevity and all OEM, then go with OEM parts wherever you can.

Do the leaks on the engine all at once. Most of those require common parts to be removed.

Get your exhaust done to meet emissions.

And....This truck is and FZJ80, not an FJ80.

FZJ80 made 93-97 in USA, has the 1FZ-FE engine.
FJ80 made 91-92 in USA, has the 3FE engine.

The transmissions are different between the two ranges of 91-94, and 95-97.

91-92 have different rear axles and all brakes than the 93-97.

So, please refer to it in its correct designation. 95 FZJ80, production date MM/YY. My 96 was made 08/95
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2020
Messages
26
Location
American Rockies
Thank you! FZJ80 from now and on!

Following the concept of what you laid out-

Decided to order this off cruiserparts.net to try to remain with an OEM unit and at least recycle my part.


Having it delivered to the shop where they will go ahead and replace the valve gasket, spark plug gasket, and sparks. The power steering gear will be replaced along with PCV, OEM Belts, and possible some things that comes up when its in the shop.

The specialist seems to say the major leak he sees is coming from where the valve cover gasket and the busted power steering gear but not anywhere else. The bearings and brakes are good to go. Recommends fresh fluids and leaking shocks as of now.

Then when that Phase 1 is complete- will move on to the next which will be new shocks all around (OEM) along with all OEM fluids after all flushes/replacements (Tranny, Coolant, Differential, Transfer, brakes)

Then its probably going to get a grease fill up for the time moment myself along with sourcing some exhaust leak welds. The owner told me I have 6 months old gas sitting in there so I may need to add fuel treatment and fresh gas fill up and clean the engine out when its ready to drive.

Can't decide between Falken Wildpeaks or Yokohima Geolanders... Leaning towards Falkens right now. Would be in 265s

Will update the part prices/labor prices when I get it finalized...

When I get it back from all of the repairs- will probably grab some simple green and clean the underneath of the truck completely along with an engine cleaning so I can monitor the engine/components for any further issues...
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
9,357
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
 
Thank you! FZJ80 from now and on!

Following the concept of what you laid out-

Decided to order this off cruiserparts.net to try to remain with an OEM unit and at least recycle my part.


Having it delivered to the shop where they will go ahead and replace the valve gasket, spark plug gasket, and sparks. The power steering gear will be replaced along with PCV, OEM Belts, and possible some things that comes up when its in the shop.

The specialist seems to say the major leak he sees is coming from where the valve cover gasket and the busted power steering gear but not anywhere else. The bearings and brakes are good to go. Recommends fresh fluids and leaking shocks as of now.

Then when that Phase 1 is complete- will move on to the next which will be new shocks all around (OEM) along with all OEM fluids after all flushes/replacements (Tranny, Coolant, Differential, Transfer, brakes)

Then its probably going to get a grease fill up for the time moment myself along with sourcing some exhaust leak welds. The owner told me I have 6 months old gas sitting in there so I may need to add fuel treatment and fresh gas fill up and clean the engine out when its ready to drive.

Can't decide between Falken Wildpeaks or Yokohima Geolanders... Leaning towards Falkens right now. Would be in 265s

Will update the part prices/labor prices when I get it finalized...

When I get it back from all of the repairs- will probably grab some simple green and clean the underneath of the truck completely along with an engine cleaning so I can monitor the engine/components for any further issues...
Good luck with that. I hope you get the part and it actually works. Look up their reputation on here.
 
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
663
Location
Gotha
 
The fill plug is on the upper right in that pic. The square head plug.

They look a bit dry.

Get a couple tubes of Valvoline Palladium and a cheap harbor freight grease gun and put about half a tube in each side then drive it and see if the look changes.

Clean off the plug with a wire brush, clean off the dirt, unscrew it and stick the grease gun nozzle in there and pump away. Depending on the gun it could be 40 pumps or 200 pumps.

Don’t forget to research how and where to grease those U joints if it hasn’t been done!

Check that spare tire too
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2020
Messages
26
Location
American Rockies
FINALLY AN UPDATE!

So I ordered the steering gear box on 7/10/20. Did not hear anything for a while so I called them- they promptly responded. It turns out that when I ordered the part- they shipped the part out to a shop to rebuild it. It sounded like the part was ready to go but was not the case.

Waited few weeks more. Followed up multiple times and the shop that worked on the rebuild was impacted by COVID19.

They promised that it would be shipped this week after finally getting the part shipped back to them.

Received a tracking number for the part that is currently en route to the shop. FINALLY.

Now all that is left to see if the part is good to go which hopefully is the case and will exchange the core part to get my core deposit back.

Just wanted to provide an update of how it looks like with CruiserParts.

Hoping to get work started officially if not end of this week but next week to get the ball rolling on this process.
 
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