Down the rabbit hole... 1995 FJ80 Progress Thread

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Don't have to remove the wheels to access the plug. It does help if you turn them to the left or right for better access, but still not necessary.



No. The clicking indicates a worn birfield joint.
Worn internal seal are evidence by having oil dripping from the bottom of the knuckle housing onto the inside of the tires or the ground.

Normal is a shiny greasy surface on the ball with a ridge of dirty grease piled on the face of the knuckle housing facing the inside of the truck.

If the balls are dry and rusty you need grease in the knuckles and need to check oil level in the differential.
1593146508621.png


Looks like this has a shiny "greasy" surface with the dirt on the knuckle housing? May looks like it just needs a good repacking at the moment?
 
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View attachment 2351949

Looks like this has a shiny "greasy" surface with the dirt on the knuckle housing? May looks like it just needs a good repacking at the moment?
The fill plug is on the upper right in that pic. The square head plug.

They look a bit dry.

Get a couple tubes of Valvoline Palladium and a cheap harbor freight grease gun and put about half a tube in each side then drive it and see if the look changes.

Clean off the plug with a wire brush, clean off the dirt, unscrew it and stick the grease gun nozzle in there and pump away. Depending on the gun it could be 40 pumps or 200 pumps.
 
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The fill plug is on the upper right in that pic. The square head plug.

They look a bit dry.

Get a couple tubes of Valvoline Palladium and a cheap harbor freight grease gun and put about half a tube in each side then drive it and see if the look changes.

Clean off the plug with a wire brush, clean off the dirt, unscrew it and stick the grease gun nozzle in there and pump away. Depending on the gun it could be 40 pumps or 200 pumps.
How do you know you’ve put in enough?

you‘re right it’s a bit dry- I just went outside and ran my finger over- grease is there but it’s on the dry side.
 
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How do you know you’ve put in enough?
Over time you will see a "line" of grease that shows a fill level on the ball.

Right now, you're pumping into a cavity that can handle a full tube if empty without actually packing the birfield. It takes a second tube per side to pack it but that's also disassembly.

If you are pumping away and it continues to puke out through the plug hole, stop. But actually push the nozzle into the hole when filling, as that will help it squish around inside there. This method you can't really overfill it.
 
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My first Saturday with the FJ.... I was walking back and forth between the FJ and iH8mud reading up on various issues!

Last night it POURED/Hailed like crazy and in the morning- my PS front seat floor was SOAKED with some moisture on the DS front seat carpet... Looks like after reading up- I may have to put urethane sealant around the gasket- I can pull it from the outside pretty easy. I scraped the bottom inside molding of the windshield- it was full of wet dirt. So I think may to have do something with the sealant inside the gasket...

The PO handed me a mangled trim above the doors - I was able to straighten it out and slap it back on

IMG_1022.jpg


My gas door would not open - the spring was broken so I dug into iH8mud and came up with this temporary solution - it WORKS!

IMG_1023.jpg


I scraped the dirt build up inside of the knuckles and looks much better there was this much dirt I removed from the DS knuckle (was similar over on the PS side as well) - Will take it for deep cleaning after I get the Toyota specialist to look around so I can leave how it looks alone for any telltale signs to show up for the specialist to identify rather than me scrubbing everything clean...

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Next post for a major update!
 
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I grabbed some solder and crawled under and tried soldering this together- was able to get it together (My first time after watching a YouTube video) Here is the result-

IMG_1026.jpg


Slapped a heat shrink around this and put it back in the black tube- Crossed my fingers on this one-

Here is a start up video - I put on the sound on so let me know how it sounds to you as I am deaf, please!


Pulled out and took it quickly around my neighborhood THE SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER CAME BACK!!! Here's the video!

 
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Here is another video of the engine idling - Let me know how you think it sounds? After recording this video- I can see a split vacuum hose clear as day- so that definitely will get replaced ASAP.


Right now the idle is idling around 550 RPM- turn on the AC it jumps up to 650...

Also- the brakes doesn't feel so good to me so that will need some attention - just feels soft, doesn't really STOP on a dime and the truck is definitely one of heaviest vehicles I've driven for my car as well.

Power steering feels harder to turn to the right than it is to the left...

Can't believe I pulled this off! Now this will go out to the shop for further investigation after the July 4th weekend to see what further needs to be done...
 
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Here is another video of the engine idling - Let me know how you think it sounds? After recording this video- I can see a split vacuum hose clear as day- so that definitely will get replaced ASAP.


Right now the idle is idling around 550 RPM- turn on the AC it jumps up to 650...

Also- the brakes doesn't feel so good to me so that will need some attention - just feels soft, doesn't really STOP on a dime and the truck is definitely one of heaviest vehicles I've driven for my car as well.

Power steering feels harder to turn to the right than it is to the left...

Can't believe I pulled this off! Now this will go out to the shop for further investigation after the July 4th weekend to see what further needs to be done...
I hear a high pitched whine while running.

There are a few things it could be.

Simple first to more expensive and difficult.

1) do you have cogged belts on the fan/alternator?

2) could be the bearing in an idler pulley is starting to go out. There is one on the alternator set and one on the AC set.
Depending on you deafness and type, you may be able to use a long thin rod to touch one end to the bolt head of the idler pulley and the other end to your cheek bone in front of the ear to hear or feel the vibration of a bearing going bad. (Done while engine is running, look out for moving parts!)

3) alternator brushes are getting worn and it's starting to whine under load. Replace with a reman Denso unit from RockAuto.

Post a pic of the alternator belts with engine off.

Post a video of the engine running and start on one side of the truck under the hood and move slowly across and around the front of the hood, up and down around the engine while pointing the camera at things like the alternator, idler pulley, AC compressor, and exhaust manifold. This will allow us to see and hear changes in noise to better pinpoint an area.
 
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I hear a high pitched whine while running.

There are a few things it could be.

Simple first to more expensive and difficult.
1) Yes- all of the belts are cogged - the belt on the bottom is the most loose one- the upper 2 belts are a bit loose. All cogged.

2) Can't hear at all. Never heard a single sound. That may to have be a job for my Toyota specialist.

3) Will look into Alternator brushes.

Here are the pictures of the belts

IMG_1038.jpg
IMG_1037.jpg


Videos coming up next post
 
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I hear a high pitched whine while running.

Post a video of the engine running and start on one side of the truck under the hood and move slowly across and around the front of the hood, up and down around the engine while pointing the camera at things like the alternator, idler pulley, AC compressor, and exhaust manifold. This will allow us to see and hear changes in noise to better pinpoint an area.
This is the video starting at exhaust manifold and going over to the belts running


This is the video moving along on the DS side hovering above the top of the engine-

 
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Definitely change your belts to OEM (they're cheap) and it will eliminate a noise / vibration.
The belts that are on it are fine until you can get to it. They're just noisy.

It also sounds like you may have a crack starting at the wye pipe on your exhaust down pipe where the two come together just before the catalytic converter. Many have had an exhaust shop weld it. I paid a guy $20 to do it for me. Eventually save up for a replacement exhaust system. (Search "Bosal for $200" to find a thread with complete parts list)

Alternator sounds OK.

Otherwise, I hear no out of the ordinary ticks, clangs, or knocks. It sounds good.

Looks like you have the typical leaks associated with the 1FZ:
Valve Cover Gasket
Spark Plug Tube Seals
PCV Valve grommet
Oil pump seal
front main seal
distributor o-ring
Power steering hoses
Transmission cooler hoses

Also do oil fill port cap (or at least a new seal on an OEM cap)
New PS Reservoir Cap (includes a new seal)

None of these look urgent, just things to put on the list.

All in all, I think you got a great deal and nothing is catastrophic on this one!

Look into changing out vacuum hoses and maybe a new intake hose for the future.

Here's where I get the majority of my stuff:
www.partsouq.com
 
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As for the floor wetness, read up on clearing the sunroof drains (in the pinch welds down by the frame). All it takes is a zip tie.
And find the round plugs for the rocker panels, may have some water in there too.

I only glanced at the whole thread so please disregard if any of this has been mentioned before.
 
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Definitely change your belts to OEM (they're cheap) and it will eliminate a noise / vibration.
The belts that are on it are fine until you can get to it. They're just noisy.

It also sounds like you may have a crack starting at the wye pipe on your exhaust down pipe where the two come together just before the catalytic converter. Many have had an exhaust shop weld it. I paid a guy $20 to do it for me. Eventually save up for a replacement exhaust system. (Search "Bosal for $200" to find a thread with complete parts list)

Alternator sounds OK.

Otherwise, I hear no out of the ordinary ticks, clangs, or knocks. It sounds good.

Looks like you have the typical leaks associated with the 1FZ:
Valve Cover Gasket
Spark Plug Tube Seals
PCV Valve grommet
Oil pump seal
front main seal
distributor o-ring
Power steering hoses
Transmission cooler hoses

Also do oil fill port cap (or at least a new seal on an OEM cap)
New PS Reservoir Cap (includes a new seal)

None of these look urgent, just things to put on the list.

All in all, I think you got a great deal and nothing is catastrophic on this one!

Look into changing out vacuum hoses and maybe a new intake hose for the future.

Here's where I get the majority of my stuff:
www.partsouq.com
thank you for your input! This is definitely trending in a positive direction where it is up to me to really service this FJ to maintain the quality of the engine as the PO obviously did!

the list you provided is high on my list and will them get done over the summer!
 
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As for the floor wetness, read up on clearing the sunroof drains (in the pinch welds down by the frame). All it takes is a zip tie.
And find the round plugs for the rocker panels, may have some water in there too.

I only glanced at the whole thread so please disregard if any of this has been mentioned before.
thats new to me! I will definitely look into this and see what I can clear out to see if I can avoid this from happening again and perhaps avoid the sealant around the windows if it’s not necessary after clearing these drains
 
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As for the floor wetness, read up on clearing the sunroof drains (in the pinch welds down by the frame). All it takes is a zip tie.
And find the round plugs for the rocker panels, may have some water in there too.

I only glanced at the whole thread so please disregard if any of this has been mentioned before.
that was a good tip- I opened my sunroof up and saw there was dirt and pine needles all clogged up in both corners where the drain holes were

Pulled out my wet n dry vac- cleaned the area up- took some stainless steel wire I had- poked and cleaned down tube- grabbed some water and poured it down the tube- the DS instantly started pouring water out of the rocker panel- moved over to the PS- no water came out and poured some more and it broke through -poured more water down to clean the tubes out

Closed the sunroof and poured water on it and water came out of both sides rocker panels quickly and smoothly

Now I need to get the floors dried out completely to see if that does the trick or I need to look further as in the windshield

Progress!
 
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Awesome. May have to do it a few times. There are also rear drains. Driving through dust/mud/grime over time can also block the bottom exits.

Find those rocker plugs and drain/dry that out too.

You can use dielectric grease to re-lube any door seals if you think they are aging a bit. Rub on, wipe off excess the next day.
 
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Dropped off the FJ at the Toyota Specialist. The mechanic right off the bat pointed to the exhaust leak. He however said the engine sounds really good. So that is positive. He will probably take the next 1-2 weeks to diagnose everything. When he has the information on hand along with his prices- I will see what will need to be done and what I can do myself to start the work on this FJ.
 
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The shop got back to me with this update-

The steering box is loose and my toyota specialist cannot find one and he is asking me if I know of any aftermarket parts for the steering box? Any ideas here? EDIT: Is this the correct remanufactured one - 1995 Toyota 4 Runner Power Steering Gear Box Power Steering - All Models 82-00383 R

Shocks- left front and right rear are leaking - he is recommending Bilstein 4600s and that would run me 753 dollars to install those in (I am assuming all 4 shocks at once) EDIT: I looked up OEM discussions in here- I may just go with the OEM shocks as it would be 40-50 per shock and it seems to be better for the FJ than Bilsteins.

BILT4ME was correct- it is leaking at the Y for the exhaust leak- He is not able to do the weld job but I know a shop who will do anything so I will try that after other parts gets serviced.

The front axels are clicking when turning and accelerating which indicates worn birfield joints- he is quoting me 1600$ to rebuild the front end and install aftermarket Birfields- I was hoping to just give it a grease refill to see if I can get away with it but it seems it may be problematic down the road if I just repacked the joints instead of rebuilding it at the moment? EDIT: I just asked the specialist to see if we can do a Moly Grease fill up in these joints FIRST to see if that gets the clicking to go away before we commit to a rebuild down the road? Thoughts on this?

This does not include the engine tune up work to the tune of Fluids flush and fill, gaskets, seals, any leaking vacuum tubes, etc EDIT: Just followed up with the specialist to see what kind of cost he is thinking to give the engine a good tune up with fresh fluids along with the steering box replacement.

The tires are bad (That one I figured out) EDIT: Considering 265 or 275 Yokohima All Terrains at the moment.

Air Bag light is on - I read up on this and looks like it may need a reset by doing some wire jumping in the fuse boxes- the battery ran dead and it came up.

Would a major engine tune up such as the steering box, new fluids, gaskets, seals and whatever else the specialist can identify would have to be redone if I were to work on the shocks, birfield rebuild later only if repacking does not do the trick, get the exhuast leak welded later on?

I am trying to avoid any redundancy in the maintenance process as if I can have this shop look over and treat my engine/transmission correctly before giving the suspension/axles any attention?
 
Last edited:
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The shop got back to me with this update-

The steering box is loose and my toyota specialist cannot find one and he is asking me if I know of any aftermarket parts for the steering box? Any ideas here? EDIT: Is this the correct remanufactured one - 1995 Toyota 4 Runner Power Steering Gear Box Power Steering - All Models 82-00383 R

Shocks- left front and right rear are leaking - he is recommending Bilstein 4600s and that would run me 753 dollars to install those in (I am assuming all 4 shocks at once) EDIT: I looked up OEM discussions in here- I may just go with the OEM shocks as it would be 40-50 per shock and it seems to be better for the FJ than Bilsteins.

BILT4ME was correct- it is leaking at the Y for the exhaust leak- He is not able to do the weld job but I know a shop who will do anything so I will try that after other parts gets serviced.

The front axels are clicking when turning and accelerating which indicates worn birfield joints- he is quoting me 1600$ to rebuild the front end and install aftermarket Birfields- I was hoping to just give it a grease refill to see if I can get away with it but it seems it may be problematic down the road if I just repacked the joints instead of rebuilding it at the moment? EDIT: I just asked the specialist to see if we can do a Moly Grease fill up in these joints FIRST to see if that gets the clicking to go away before we commit to a rebuild down the road? Thoughts on this?

This does not include the engine tune up work to the tune of Fluids flush and fill, gaskets, seals, any leaking vacuum tubes, etc EDIT: Just followed up with the specialist to see what kind of cost he is thinking to give the engine a good tune up with fresh fluids along with the steering box replacement.

The tires are bad (That one I figured out) EDIT: Considering 265 or 275 Yokohima All Terrains at the moment.

Air Bag light is on - I read up on this and looks like it may need a reset by doing some wire jumping in the fuse boxes- the battery ran dead and it came up.

Would a major engine tune up such as the steering box, new fluids, gaskets, seals and whatever else the specialist can identify would have to be redone if I were to work on the shocks, birfield rebuild later only if repacking does not do the trick, get the exhuast leak welded later on?

I am trying to avoid any redundancy in the maintenance process as if I can have this shop look over and treat my engine/transmission correctly before giving the suspension/axles any attention?
No, not the correct steering gear.
1594086255526.png



It's less expensive to rebuild the one you have and most likely you can just adjust it unless it's leaking a lot. There is a screw on top with a nut for adjustment. Search videos here in this forum. You can buy a rebuild kit for the pump and here is a highly detailed video of this.

Pass along this website to your mechanic. He definitely needs it if he's trying to buy parts for a 4-Runner.


Shocks:
Buy the original stock Tokico shocks from the sites I posted earlier. Bilsteins are expensive comparatively and won't give the life.

Exhaust leak:
You can drive it for years on the exhaust leak. You will get worse gas mileage because of it. However, the upside, is if you can't hear, it won't bother you! :rofl:
(It's really not that loud.....I drove mine like that for two years with no issue. I only fixed it because it was my DD and I could hear it on the higway.)

How are the brakes? Specifically the front rotors? Do hey work OK? Do they feel like they work? Are the rotors grooved?
If you need new rotors, then I would say push towards a front axle rebuild.

Here's what I would do, in order, to spread out my cash flow:
1) New tires
2) New shocks
3) Fill the knuckles with Moly grease.
4) Adjust the steering box or replace it. There is a place recommended here to rebuild you box for you, but I think it's about $500, but you do the R/R on it. You can also look at a used box. See below.
5) Brakes: You don't mention anything about the brakes in his list but you mention they are soft. The brakes can be affected by the wheel bearings as well. They kind of go together in this list. Check the wheel bearings for play and adjust. (35 LB-FT on the inner nut while rotating and 45 LB-FT on the outer nut then lock down BOTH nuts with the star washer) If your FRONT brake rotors are shot, then you will need to have the front wheel bearings repacked. This will be about $300 for labor and a couple seals just for the wheel bearing repack. If brake rotors are needed, then it's pads, rotors, probably calipers, and hoses. (guessing $400 in parts + $200 labor. Yes, all that will need to be dug into again if you rebuild the axle later, but if it's about cash flow, do the minimum.
6) Fluid changes. Change the fluids in ALL. Engine oil, front and rear differential, transfer case, and transmission. The fluid EXCHANGE on the transmission is the way to go (not a fluid flush!) and this is done with about 5 GALLONS of transmission fluid and pumping it out through the cooler in the front. Just cost of fluid is about $100.
7) Airbag light. Follow the FSM to diagnose and re-set the airbag light. Odds are it just needs reset. (Labor to diagnose.)
8) Lube your shafts and check your nuts. Lube the U-Joints and yokes on the front and rear driveshafts. Make sure the nuts on the bottom of both front knuckles are torqued to 72 LB-FT.

Engine leaks and exhaust leak are a ways down the list to make it safely driveable.

Follow my order I posted in post #6. Safety is pretty high on the list.
Tires
Shocks
Brakes
Steering
Airbag (Airbags are not REQUIRED, but they can improve safety)

Two used parts folks that you could use for a good used steering gear are:
@arcteryx (texas)
@slow95z (georgia)


Just make it so you're not going to kill busloads of Nuns and Kindergartners!
 
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