Door stop hinge repair. FYI

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Mar 28, 2006
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After several months wrapped in blankets, it was time to finally hang the doors which were already painted. Got the driver side on before I realized that the body shop had not welded new ears for the stop to connect to. They had addressed the rot by welding a plate in the area where the ears used to be but no ears. I went to my machinist/fabricator with an idea and here are the results. His work was perfect as usual whereas my cutting will require a little patch and paint. He made the angle of the ears to match the passenger door and welded to the plate. I drilled and tapped for 5mm and then pulled the works through the door with a length of wire so it didn't end up in the bottom
of the door. Cheers

Tom
hinge1.jpgCopying.jpg
hinge2.jpg
 
Looks a lot better that the two nuts I welded on some strap.
 
There could be a 'market' for those. I usually just make them one at a time and weld on the outer face of the door as needed. Your 'method' is definitely structurally stronger, and has the benefit of not requiring welding!

If you're not gonna make them, would you mind posting the specs for the mass of home fabricators?

Hole center spacing from the flat plate.
Angle of tabs relative to the plate.
Space between tabs.
Pin hole size.
Tab width.

I just copy stock ones, so I don't take measurements!;p

:cheers:
 
Hey Mark. I'm not going to be a big help here as whenever this man does something for me and all the others around here, I just watch in amazement
while he conducts business. I have no intent of producing these whatsoever.
Kelly traced the bracket off of my good door and added 1/8" to the length of the tab allowing for door thickness and welds at the base. 1/8" flat stock was used. Tab width, 7/8". Spacing between tabs, 1/4". Hole diameter to make pin.
Tom
 
that bracket is nice .there is a kit on the market for m37s that is close to what the cruiser uses for guys that dont make their own stuff.i think vintage power wagons sell it
 

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