Door courtesy light switch electrical issue

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Right, I was forgeting my mantra earlier...."It's always the alarm".

PS. I'm not seeing the diagram you posted???
 
Thanks for reposting.
Unfortunately that diagram is too simplified to do any real trouble-shooting, doesn't show wire colors or harness connectors.

Here's what I think is going on though:
Domelight.webp

Domelight.webp
 
Checked - the alarm had a cable running to the FRONT right (driver's) switch.

I followed the one from the rear door and it seemed intact in the wiring harness.

I removed the alarm cable for good measure but still didn't help.

To summarize this is where I am at:
- Front right - dash indicator and dome light come on when opened.
- Front left - same
- Rear left - Same
- Back hatch - no dome light, but dash indicator lights up.
- Rear right - no dash indicator, no dome light.
 
Code: 
I followed the one from the rear door and it seemed intact in the wiring harness.

The RR door switch should be connected all the way to the LR door switch. Check for continuity between the two.

Code: 
- Back hatch - no dome light, but dash indicator lights up.

Does that light work with the switch in the "ON" position?
 
spurcap said:
Checked - the alarm had a cable running to the FRONT right (driver's) switch.
Click to expand...

That can't be the only alarm wire in the door-switch circuit, only the driver's door would be protected. The driver's door is isolated from the other doors through a diode.
 
Interesting - perhaps it is connected somewhere else that I can't see to the alarm.

I will have to pull up some panels at the back to follow it through but I will try when it isn't so cold outside!

There is no rear light on my truck, only 1 dome light in the middle so I am guessing it is setup to do nothing intentionally.

Edit: I see what you're saying - I will use my multimeter to check continuity between the two.
 
So I pulled things apart (despite the cold). The wiring looks fine up the left side (passenger) of the vehicle.

The wire to the rear right door seems to come from the drivers side (followed it up). I ended up following to right up to where the big connector is under the steering wheel.

I re-ran my voltmeter on it thought and realized it is only getting 4-5V so that's likely the cause of the problem. Perhaps a grounding issue.

Given the alarm is mounted there, my guess is the alarm IS tapped into this wire as well as the driver's door wire.

Given my alarm sucks, and it is significantly disconnected from me addressing problems (lock connection was removed as they would sometimes lock and sometimes not and it created confusion, unhooked the driver's light/ door open connection), perhaps I should just buy a new alarm that comes with an install and let the pros pull out the old alarm and rewire it properly.
 
both of my pass doors don't turn on any lights. OEM alarm. Sucks but I just live with it. Looks like your on the right track.

Are there the crimp style splice connectors being used for your alarm? Or problem area?
 
I can't quite work out what's going on with the alarm ... way too many cables around under the dash.

Sooo much aftermarket wiring in my truck - gauges, DRLs, aftermarket lights, alarm, stereo, and found a tow light kit in the rear quarter panel today while tracing through.

I have half a garbage bag full of s*** I have pulled out of my truck in the last week ...

I have nothing against aftermarket, only aftermarket installed by other people :)

Another thing I learnt today: I actually do have a rear light in the cargo area (could never see it without sitting inside the cargo area). While the dash light comes on when the hatch is open, the light in the back does not. And the bulb works - I can manually turn it on.

I'm guessing it is related to the same issue as my rear right door.
 
So to close this thread off, I replaced my alarm today and the door I was having problems with now gets a solid 12V to the sensor and when I ground it, the light comes on.

Now just to replace the sensor (which still doesn't work) and I should be good to go.
 
Good to know you got it sorted out.
Thanks for the follow up.
 
landcrshr said:
Not sure about the '91, but if you you look at the diagram above there are 3 other paths to +12V leading to that door switch. (through the other lamps)
Click to expand...

hi @spurcap having the same issue but regarding the note above does that mean that if the bulb is burnt out inside the door then the overhead light will not receive power?

also does every door when opened illuminate both interior dome lights? or does the front do the front light and the rear doors light up the rear?

thanks!
 
enox said:
...if the bulb is burnt out inside the door then the overhead light will not receive power?
Click to expand...
A burnt door courtesy light should not affect the overhead light.
enox said:
...does every door when opened illuminate both interior dome lights?
Click to expand...
Not on a '95. The front and rear doors are isolated to their respective lights.
 
landcrshr said:
A burnt door courtesy light should not affect the overhead light.

Not on a '95. The front and rear doors are isolated to their respective lights.
Click to expand...

awesome, thanks! ill have to dig into this later today.

left front (no function for door or overhead light)
left rear (bad switch, on order)
right front (works on front dome and door)
right rear (works on rear dome and door)
rear hatch (works on rear dome)

side note;
have you and trouble with key fob? i have been trying to search for a solution, my fob will lock the doors and arm the factory alarm, however it will not unlock the doors or dis-arm the alarm. electric locks work via driver side switch and when i insert key into drivers door.. thanks!
 
enox said:
side note;
have you and trouble with key fob?
Click to expand...
I never received a fob with my Cruiser, and I hated the auto-lock feature when starting it, so I removed the alarm.

30 minutes well spent.
 
oh interesting, guess its important to note that i wasnt aware about the auto lock feature when starting. i must be having an issue with the unlock relay.

now if you just removed the entire factory alarm was there any issues with starting? id imagine if the alarm was disconnected and removed then theres no way for it to send a signal to the ignition to disable the start.

have you installed an aftermarket keyless lock/unlock or do you just live with inserting the key in the door?
 
enox said:
now if you just removed the entire factory alarm was there any issues with starting? id imagine if the alarm was disconnected and removed then theres no way for it to send a signal to the ignition to disable the start.

have you installed an aftermarket keyless lock/unlock or do you just live with inserting the key in the door?
Click to expand...
You remove the ignition kill relay too. See my post in this thread: Alarm frustration

Yes, I just "live with" using the key. I'm old school.
 
ok cool thanks, ive gotta start taking some stuff apart! maybe when i get to the brain i can re-program the factory fob and then it will unlock/arm. if not ill have to ditch everything and install keyless entry as the story is i bought this car to transport the dog =] hes gotta get in through the back ;);)
 
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