Do I stick with this vehicle or not...?

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LarryTheLX said:
Has anyone done the master cylinder OEM rebuild kit? Wondering how much labor is involved and if the outcome was good. I have the original MC so far as I know but the system was apparently modified when the lift was done since there are distribution / proportioning sensors and valves no longer there. So my pedal and stopping is better after redoing rear pads / rotors and having the system flushed and bled but I still have to pump it sometimes to get a good pedal.
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Mine had a code and I replaced the entire assembly. It was expensive, $2500 plus labor $300 and misc to bleed the system. If you search the forum, I remember seeing a discussion on the topic, Toyota got this stupid expensive design, but then again I don’t want to take a chance on brakes. So hopefully it’s the last time I deal with it. With 25% discounts coming up, you may want to consider just getting a new one. Land Cruiser is expensive to bring to baseline maintenance. Btw, did you fix the vibrations yet? What are the latest on that front?
 
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41togo said:
Hey Larry, I think you meant rear bushings on the rear control arms. Toyota does not make them but other aftermarket’s. Coupe feedback, I was thinking about the same thing but in the end I replaced the entire assembly vs just bushings. A lot of labor involved so in the end I prefer OEM also mine got some surface rust. I ordered OEM sway bar link and bushings couple months ago from PartsNext even with shipping and tax it was worth it, so when I compare the OEM sway bar bushings vs aftermarket in this case I got them from Rock auto. The OEM bushings are harder and better quality than the aftermarket ones. So I’m happy to pay more as it will last another 200k mi and I felt more smoother on the road. Some good news, there is a sale with 25% off with no tax and no shipping from Toyota on 11-24-25 so plan according. Best!

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Thx for the feedback, i found the correct bushing kit for the old man emu shocks and there's nothing complicated about swapping them, my mechanic is just used to swapping shocks and moving on but these shocks are good and too expensive to replace when the bushing kit is available. but i will be sure and have him check all of the parts you mentioned, i would not be surprised if they need attention also
 
LarryTheLX said:
Has anyone done the master cylinder OEM rebuild kit? Wondering how much labor is involved and if the outcome was good. I have the original MC so far as I know but the system was apparently modified when the lift was done since there are distribution / proportioning sensors and valves no longer there. So my pedal and stopping is better after redoing rear pads / rotors and having the system flushed and bled but I still have to pump it sometimes to get a good pedal.
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So Larry I found this old thread showing how to repair the master cylinder DIY by using the Toyota master cylinder kit. It was in 2010 and continue discussions into 2022. Lots of readings lol! May be your mechanic may review and see if it’s within his ability to tackle the task. I had a competent Indy shop but the owner does not want to overhaul mine. Instead he gave his discount to me but still cost a lot $2.3k in 2019. Also from my experiences in my younger days on master cylinder repairs, a lot of time the cylinder bore is pitted from corrosion. So either sleeve or replacement. In this case, caution of a backup plan in the event you’re to repair it. Good luck!

Skidoo

Thread 'Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY'

Order correct rebuild kit. Part number for 2000 US model w/ ATRAC is 04493-60330
[edit 6/2018 - this part number is correct for all US 100s. Checked with @beno and while online it will only be listed for 2003-2007, its correct for all US 100s.]
Kit is around $50, so a bunch cheaper than ~$1500 Master Cylinder Assembly. Rebuild will not fix everything, but for the price it is worth a shot. Brake fluid, think I used around 2 qts.
Would be a good idea to have FSM, since this is written assuming you have it.
Tools: 10mm flare wrench, 3/8" socket set...
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Wouldn't recommend the rebuild, Mr T has dropped master prices down to about $1400 iirc when I purchased mine 2 years ago. Grab it on a -25% if you can.
2001LC

Thread 'Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.'

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems.

With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake master assembly, replaced with new. If you have to ask question, on "how to", your not qualified to work on the master.

My hope is below link will give better understanding as to what we can do to reduce brake failure and what to watch for. The info is from my experiences and my thinking, as to what...
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Thanks for great feedback / info from everyone. I think I'm going to leave the MC alone for now. Since replacing rear pads / rotors and 2 bleeds of the system it stops good and the pedal is better, sometimes the pedal feels sticky on the return and I can still get a better pedal when I pump it an extra time when needed but I have no warning lights / beeps etc. so I think it will have to have work at some point but it's not critical yet. I may try to catch the new assy on sale as suggested and plan on letting my mechanic do the swap when the time comes since he is much more comfortable with that.

Has anyone encountered the mods to their system with the distribution / proportioning hardware being removed related to a lift kit being installed etc?
 
41togo said:
Mine had a code and I replaced the entire assembly. It was expensive, $2500 plus labor $300 and misc to bleed the system. If you search the forum, I remember seeing a discussion on the topic, Toyota got this stupid expensive design, but then again I don’t want to take a chance on brakes. So hopefully it’s the last time I deal with it. With 25% discounts coming up, you may want to consider just getting a new one. Land Cruiser is expensive to bring to baseline maintenance. Btw, did you fix the vibrations yet? What are the latest on that front?
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Regarding vibrations, I'm taking the rear drive shaft to a shop to have it balanced today and also hopefully determine if there's anything amiss with the new U joints that were previously installed on it but did not resolve the issue. The front driveshaft is a new assembly so theoretically it would not be the problem. Thanks for asking!
 
I rebuilt my master cylinder with the Toyota kit. Easy job and tightened up the pedal feel for sure.

I'd be a bit nervous if someone messed with the brake system, as you describe. Can you post some pics?
 
Chester White said:
Others may have commented about this, but I would point out that if you are not driving any heavy truck regularly, the tires will be slightly out of round when you first get on the road. You might not notice anything at low speeds. If they are properly balanced and inflated, the vibration soon improves. If not, look for another source.
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Just to add to this, colder weather will exacerbate these traits as well. Tires will hold that out-of-round shape for a longer period of time, until they warm up from driving, and anecdotally it seems like my '99's AHC rides a bit harsher during the first 5-10 minutes of driving on cold mornings. Just something to consider for the OP.
 
I keep throwing $ at mine as it needs it. Serves me well and I trust it to go cross country at a moments notice

1-2k annually for the past 10 years.
 
Has anyone had an issue with a miss only when engine is cold? Goes away and runs great once it warms up to operating temp. Might be a plug, coil pack has been ruled out. Also could be early indicator of head gasket deterioration. Only getting a code on cylinder #4 right now.
 
LarryTheLX said:
Regarding vibrations, I'm taking the rear drive shaft to a shop to have it balanced today and also hopefully determine if there's anything amiss with the new U joints that were previously installed on it but did not resolve the issue. The front driveshaft is a new assembly so theoretically it would not be the problem. Thanks for asking!
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Vibration not resolved with rear drive shaft balancing, it's improved overall so I'm going to roll with it as is and see if something worsens over time to make it easier to diagnose. Don't believe it's a cold tire / flat spot issue.
 
I have diagnosed a cold temp engine miss as a head gasket leak around one plug (that was replaced with no change in behavior) so very minor so far. Basically it misses until at operating temp and then it runs fine and I have to add coolant periodically. No cooling issues, no exhaust issues and no oil contamination issues. I'm thinking about trying K-Seal HD. I've had several of these type products recommended but this one seems to have the most consistent results / best reviews. For the record my mechanic is diametrically opposed to these products, he has quoted $2500-ish to replace both head gaskets plus the parts for a new timing belt / water pump etc. Has anyone tried it, or other similar products? In the unlikely event it caused heater core issues it seems like a new heater core could be installed on the firewall / in the engine bay and just extend / reroute hoses as needed, I'd appreciate input on that also. I may have to do that at some point regardless of the head gasket process because the heat is not amazing already, it's basically an all or nothing on the temp setting. Also my A/C quit.... again, after 2 recharges and a leak fix there is still apparently a leak somewhere unless the compressor has decided to completely fail
 
Happy New Year Larry! I seldom needing heat in So Cal so others may chime in. I’ve always worry about the head gaskets on mine as she’s getting quarter century old and not being original owners, we are just doing the best to catch up with previously neglected maintenance. On the newer 5.7 V8, many are needing head gaskets now with lower mileage as they are both aluminum heads and block while the 4. 7 are more robust with aluminum heads and iron block.
Having said, agreed with your mechanic against any stop leak products. You may catch this early enough with no additional damages to the block! No short cut here just make sure the shop is capable and use only OEM parts imho.
Question on did you bore scope the cylinder to confirm the leak is coming from the plug area? In other words, the coolant leak is coming from a crack head, not leaking from the head gaskets. If so…these heads are not repairable, solution is either a new or used head. The quoted price of $2.5k seems reasonable, considering today high shop rate. It will be higher with full head surface and replacement.
Other items to consider replacement while you’re there.
1. Starter ( exchange remanf. )
2. Exhaust headers ( OEM or DH headers )
3. Heater hoses, heater tees, and heater core

At a minimum the head gasket job will include timing belt, water pumps, all idlers, spark plugs, valve seals, valve job at 300k miles. Also once you have the heads removed, the cylinders’ conditions will determine whether to throw more money into it or not. Here’s a pretty good video to educate yourself to communicate with the shop. Let us know your findings and good luck.

 
LarryTheLX said:
I have diagnosed a cold temp engine miss as a head gasket leak around one plug (that was replaced with no change in behavior) so very minor so far. Basically it misses until at operating temp and then it runs fine and I have to add coolant periodically. No cooling issues, no exhaust issues and no oil contamination issues. I'm thinking about trying K-Seal HD. I've had several of these type products recommended but this one seems to have the most consistent results / best reviews. For the record my mechanic is diametrically opposed to these products, he has quoted $2500-ish to replace both head gaskets plus the parts for a new timing belt / water pump etc. Has anyone tried it, or other similar products? In the unlikely event it caused heater core issues it seems like a new heater core could be installed on the firewall / in the engine bay and just extend / reroute hoses as needed, I'd appreciate input on that also. I may have to do that at some point regardless of the head gasket process because the heat is not amazing already, it's basically an all or nothing on the temp setting. Also my A/C quit.... again, after 2 recharges and a leak fix there is still apparently a leak somewhere unless the compressor has decided to completely fail
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$2500 for head gasket job is an incredible price. I'd be all over that.

How do you know no oil contamination is occurring? Did you get an oil analysis done? I would be surprised if the analysis came back with no coolant found in the oil - enough to think that misfire could be a separate problem and maybe you have a coolant leak elsewhere in the system.
 
Yeah, how did you diagnosed a cold misfire to a head gasket issue? Not saying it can't happen but just curious.

Head gasket preventative repairs are common on V8's, but usually not Toyota V8's. (70's American V8's recommended a valve job at 70k miles if not mistaken?)
The Car Nut is a guy that I watch sometimes, and I believe has a good YT channel and good knowledge of Toyota's in general, but it isn't a common 4.7L issue.

Somehow Toyota managed to design an excellent V8 with low compression, low stress, low rpm and enough torque to move a massive truck around at very low MPGs, and thanks to OPEC, messed it up later on with it's newer designs.

I'd start looking at the cooling system, beginning with a new thermostat and a radiator cap, a proper "burp" of the cooling system using the correct coolant for your year LC, check for leaks (if you have to fill coolant, it's going out somewhere). Can it be that it's burning BC of a head gasket? Sure..

Did you monitor temperatures using a scanner or other than the cluster gauge? I use Scangauge and recommend.. Skipping timing on a belt isn't uncommon, and might be a cause for high head temps. Fuel not burning properly at correct timing will disintegrate or over carbonize an engine or valves, creating misfires that are difficult to diagnose.

But a proper checkup costs a LOT less than a head gasket job. Don't be pessimistic and look for a cheaper result first, specially before adding snake oil in your beloved car.
Hope you find it.
 
This video suggested all the aforementioned symptoms on a 290k miles 4.7 ie misfires, slight cooling loss, possible air trapped in cooling system, low heat, and yet no milky oil.
First the block tests found combustion gas in the coolant, justifying a borescope subsequently confirmed coolant dipping into the cylinder under system pressure check. Ultimately that’s what you want to confirm before disassemble the engine.

 
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41togo said:
Happy New Year Larry! I seldom needing heat in So Cal so others may chime in. I’ve always worry about the head gaskets on mine as she’s getting quarter century old and not being original owners, we are just doing the best to catch up with previously neglected maintenance. On the newer 5.7 V8, many are needing head gaskets now with lower mileage as they are both aluminum heads and block while the 4. 7 are more robust with aluminum heads and iron block.
Having said, agreed with your mechanic against any stop leak products. You may catch this early enough with no additional damages to the block! No short cut here just make sure the shop is capable and use only OEM parts imho.
Question on did you bore scope the cylinder to confirm the leak is coming from the plug area? In other words, the coolant leak is coming from a crack head, not leaking from the head gaskets. If so…these heads are not repairable, solution is either a new or used head. The quoted price of $2.5k seems reasonable, considering today high shop rate. It will be higher with full head surface and replacement.
Other items to consider replacement while you’re there.
1. Starter ( exchange remanf. )
2. Exhaust headers ( OEM or DH headers )
3. Heater hoses, heater tees, and heater core

At a minimum the head gasket job will include timing belt, water pumps, all idlers, spark plugs, valve seals, valve job at 300k miles. Also once you have the heads removed, the cylinders’ conditions will determine whether to throw more money into it or not. Here’s a pretty good video to educate yourself to communicate with the shop. Let us know your findings and good luck.

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Thanks very much for the excellent info / insight. My mechanic wasn't too concerned about the scoping you mentioned since he's thinking it's either a gasket replacement etc. or a head replacement if needed but he's got to get into it one way or another. Just curious about the opposition to the K-Seal, I've been thinking it either resolves it / kicks it down the road for quite a while since I don't drive this vehicle as a primary so low miles or worst case scenario it doesn't fix it but doesn't hurt it...?
 
rexington14 said:
$2500 for head gasket job is an incredible price. I'd be all over that.

How do you know no oil contamination is occurring? Did you get an oil analysis done? I would be surprised if the analysis came back with no coolant found in the oil - enough to think that misfire could be a separate problem and maybe you have a coolant leak elsewhere in the system.
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The oil looks normal, did not have an analysis done
 
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