There is a post on the discount parts too!
Do I stick with this vehicle or not...?
- Thread starter LarryTheLX
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There is a post on the discount parts too!
Mine had a code and I replaced the entire assembly. It was expensive, $2500 plus labor $300 and misc to bleed the system. If you search the forum, I remember seeing a discussion on the topic, Toyota got this stupid expensive design, but then again I don’t want to take a chance on brakes. So hopefully it’s the last time I deal with it. With 25% discounts coming up, you may want to consider just getting a new one. Land Cruiser is expensive to bring to baseline maintenance. Btw, did you fix the vibrations yet? What are the latest on that front?
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- #23
Thx for the feedback, i found the correct bushing kit for the old man emu shocks and there's nothing complicated about swapping them, my mechanic is just used to swapping shocks and moving on but these shocks are good and too expensive to replace when the bushing kit is available. but i will be sure and have him check all of the parts you mentioned, i would not be surprised if they need attention also
So Larry I found this old thread showing how to repair the master cylinder DIY by using the Toyota master cylinder kit. It was in 2010 and continue discussions into 2022. Lots of readings lol! May be your mechanic may review and see if it’s within his ability to tackle the task. I had a competent Indy shop but the owner does not want to overhaul mine. Instead he gave his discount to me but still cost a lot $2.3k in 2019. Also from my experiences in my younger days on master cylinder repairs, a lot of time the cylinder bore is pitted from corrosion. So either sleeve or replacement. In this case, caution of a backup plan in the event you’re to repair it. Good luck!
Wouldn't recommend the rebuild, Mr T has dropped master prices down to about $1400 iirc when I purchased mine 2 years ago. Grab it on a -25% if you can.
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- #26
Thanks for great feedback / info from everyone. I think I'm going to leave the MC alone for now. Since replacing rear pads / rotors and 2 bleeds of the system it stops good and the pedal is better, sometimes the pedal feels sticky on the return and I can still get a better pedal when I pump it an extra time when needed but I have no warning lights / beeps etc. so I think it will have to have work at some point but it's not critical yet. I may try to catch the new assy on sale as suggested and plan on letting my mechanic do the swap when the time comes since he is much more comfortable with that.
Has anyone encountered the mods to their system with the distribution / proportioning hardware being removed related to a lift kit being installed etc?
Has anyone encountered the mods to their system with the distribution / proportioning hardware being removed related to a lift kit being installed etc?
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- #27
Regarding vibrations, I'm taking the rear drive shaft to a shop to have it balanced today and also hopefully determine if there's anything amiss with the new U joints that were previously installed on it but did not resolve the issue. The front driveshaft is a new assembly so theoretically it would not be the problem. Thanks for asking!
Just to add to this, colder weather will exacerbate these traits as well. Tires will hold that out-of-round shape for a longer period of time, until they warm up from driving, and anecdotally it seems like my '99's AHC rides a bit harsher during the first 5-10 minutes of driving on cold mornings. Just something to consider for the OP.
I keep throwing $ at mine as it needs it. Serves me well and I trust it to go cross country at a moments notice
1-2k annually for the past 10 years.
1-2k annually for the past 10 years.
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- #31
Has anyone had an issue with a miss only when engine is cold? Goes away and runs great once it warms up to operating temp. Might be a plug, coil pack has been ruled out. Also could be early indicator of head gasket deterioration. Only getting a code on cylinder #4 right now.
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- #32
Vibration not resolved with rear drive shaft balancing, it's improved overall so I'm going to roll with it as is and see if something worsens over time to make it easier to diagnose. Don't believe it's a cold tire / flat spot issue.
Aftermarket CV's are a consistent culprit for vibration on this forum.
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- #34
I have diagnosed a cold temp engine miss as a head gasket leak around one plug (that was replaced with no change in behavior) so very minor so far. Basically it misses until at operating temp and then it runs fine and I have to add coolant periodically. No cooling issues, no exhaust issues and no oil contamination issues. I'm thinking about trying K-Seal HD. I've had several of these type products recommended but this one seems to have the most consistent results / best reviews. For the record my mechanic is diametrically opposed to these products, he has quoted $2500-ish to replace both head gaskets plus the parts for a new timing belt / water pump etc. Has anyone tried it, or other similar products? In the unlikely event it caused heater core issues it seems like a new heater core could be installed on the firewall / in the engine bay and just extend / reroute hoses as needed, I'd appreciate input on that also. I may have to do that at some point regardless of the head gasket process because the heat is not amazing already, it's basically an all or nothing on the temp setting. Also my A/C quit.... again, after 2 recharges and a leak fix there is still apparently a leak somewhere unless the compressor has decided to completely fail
Happy New Year Larry! I seldom needing heat in So Cal so others may chime in. I’ve always worry about the head gaskets on mine as she’s getting quarter century old and not being original owners, we are just doing the best to catch up with previously neglected maintenance. On the newer 5.7 V8, many are needing head gaskets now with lower mileage as they are both aluminum heads and block while the 4. 7 are more robust with aluminum heads and iron block.
Having said, agreed with your mechanic against any stop leak products. You may catch this early enough with no additional damages to the block! No short cut here just make sure the shop is capable and use only OEM parts imho.
Question on did you bore scope the cylinder to confirm the leak is coming from the plug area? In other words, the coolant leak is coming from a crack head, not leaking from the head gaskets. If so…these heads are not repairable, solution is either a new or used head. The quoted price of $2.5k seems reasonable, considering today high shop rate. It will be higher with full head surface and replacement.
Other items to consider replacement while you’re there.
1. Starter ( exchange remanf. )
2. Exhaust headers ( OEM or DH headers )
3. Heater hoses, heater tees, and heater core
At a minimum the head gasket job will include timing belt, water pumps, all idlers, spark plugs, valve seals, valve job at 300k miles. Also once you have the heads removed, the cylinders’ conditions will determine whether to throw more money into it or not. Here’s a pretty good video to educate yourself to communicate with the shop. Let us know your findings and good luck.
Having said, agreed with your mechanic against any stop leak products. You may catch this early enough with no additional damages to the block! No short cut here just make sure the shop is capable and use only OEM parts imho.
Question on did you bore scope the cylinder to confirm the leak is coming from the plug area? In other words, the coolant leak is coming from a crack head, not leaking from the head gaskets. If so…these heads are not repairable, solution is either a new or used head. The quoted price of $2.5k seems reasonable, considering today high shop rate. It will be higher with full head surface and replacement.
Other items to consider replacement while you’re there.
1. Starter ( exchange remanf. )
2. Exhaust headers ( OEM or DH headers )
3. Heater hoses, heater tees, and heater core
At a minimum the head gasket job will include timing belt, water pumps, all idlers, spark plugs, valve seals, valve job at 300k miles. Also once you have the heads removed, the cylinders’ conditions will determine whether to throw more money into it or not. Here’s a pretty good video to educate yourself to communicate with the shop. Let us know your findings and good luck.
$2500 for head gasket job is an incredible price. I'd be all over that.
How do you know no oil contamination is occurring? Did you get an oil analysis done? I would be surprised if the analysis came back with no coolant found in the oil - enough to think that misfire could be a separate problem and maybe you have a coolant leak elsewhere in the system.
Yeah, how did you diagnosed a cold misfire to a head gasket issue? Not saying it can't happen but just curious.
Head gasket preventative repairs are common on V8's, but usually not Toyota V8's. (70's American V8's recommended a valve job at 70k miles if not mistaken?)
The Car Nut is a guy that I watch sometimes, and I believe has a good YT channel and good knowledge of Toyota's in general, but it isn't a common 4.7L issue.
Somehow Toyota managed to design an excellent V8 with low compression, low stress, low rpm and enough torque to move a massive truck around at very low MPGs, and thanks to OPEC, messed it up later on with it's newer designs.
I'd start looking at the cooling system, beginning with a new thermostat and a radiator cap, a proper "burp" of the cooling system using the correct coolant for your year LC, check for leaks (if you have to fill coolant, it's going out somewhere). Can it be that it's burning BC of a head gasket? Sure..
Did you monitor temperatures using a scanner or other than the cluster gauge? I use Scangauge and recommend.. Skipping timing on a belt isn't uncommon, and might be a cause for high head temps. Fuel not burning properly at correct timing will disintegrate or over carbonize an engine or valves, creating misfires that are difficult to diagnose.
But a proper checkup costs a LOT less than a head gasket job. Don't be pessimistic and look for a cheaper result first, specially before adding snake oil in your beloved car.
Hope you find it.
Head gasket preventative repairs are common on V8's, but usually not Toyota V8's. (70's American V8's recommended a valve job at 70k miles if not mistaken?)
The Car Nut is a guy that I watch sometimes, and I believe has a good YT channel and good knowledge of Toyota's in general, but it isn't a common 4.7L issue.
Somehow Toyota managed to design an excellent V8 with low compression, low stress, low rpm and enough torque to move a massive truck around at very low MPGs, and thanks to OPEC, messed it up later on with it's newer designs.
I'd start looking at the cooling system, beginning with a new thermostat and a radiator cap, a proper "burp" of the cooling system using the correct coolant for your year LC, check for leaks (if you have to fill coolant, it's going out somewhere). Can it be that it's burning BC of a head gasket? Sure..
Did you monitor temperatures using a scanner or other than the cluster gauge? I use Scangauge and recommend.. Skipping timing on a belt isn't uncommon, and might be a cause for high head temps. Fuel not burning properly at correct timing will disintegrate or over carbonize an engine or valves, creating misfires that are difficult to diagnose.
But a proper checkup costs a LOT less than a head gasket job. Don't be pessimistic and look for a cheaper result first, specially before adding snake oil in your beloved car.
Hope you find it.
This video suggested all the aforementioned symptoms on a 290k miles 4.7 ie misfires, slight cooling loss, possible air trapped in cooling system, low heat, and yet no milky oil.
First the block tests found combustion gas in the coolant, justifying a borescope subsequently confirmed coolant dipping into the cylinder under system pressure check. Ultimately that’s what you want to confirm before disassemble the engine.
First the block tests found combustion gas in the coolant, justifying a borescope subsequently confirmed coolant dipping into the cylinder under system pressure check. Ultimately that’s what you want to confirm before disassemble the engine.
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- #39
Thanks very much for the excellent info / insight. My mechanic wasn't too concerned about the scoping you mentioned since he's thinking it's either a gasket replacement etc. or a head replacement if needed but he's got to get into it one way or another. Just curious about the opposition to the K-Seal, I've been thinking it either resolves it / kicks it down the road for quite a while since I don't drive this vehicle as a primary so low miles or worst case scenario it doesn't fix it but doesn't hurt it...?
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- #40
The oil looks normal, did not have an analysis done