Driley -
Read pages 103 & 104 of your owner's manual regarding oil consumption and the type of driving pattern that you describe. The specific comment I'm referring to is on p 104 of the 1994 owners manual.
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Do I need a new engine?
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Driley -
Read pages 103 & 104 of your owner's manual regarding oil consumption and the type of driving pattern that you describe. The specific comment I'm referring to is on p 104 of the 1994 owners manual.
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- #22
Oh, I've been buying parts from CDan from the beginning, when I didn't need them the next day.
As for the voodoo model of my truck, I'm sure he has one, already. I'm just hoping he's not holding out for me buying a new long block from him...
I really, really don't *want* to know what Mr. Toyota wants for a new crate 1FZ-FE. I'm guessing that it's north of six grand. Likely, waaaaay north...
As for the voodoo model of my truck, I'm sure he has one, already. I'm just hoping he's not holding out for me buying a new long block from him...
I really, really don't *want* to know what Mr. Toyota wants for a new crate 1FZ-FE. I'm guessing that it's north of six grand. Likely, waaaaay north...
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- #23
Well, bringing this thread up to date...
Have had the truck taken to two dealers and a recomended third party shop. All three couldn't find anything obvious, or so they said. I had about resigned myself to the fact that the rings were shot, mostly due to the blue smoke. One dealer refused to do a cylinder leak-down, due to the fact that "In your situation, it's a waste of money... Your rings are shot."
However, comma... I took a shot the PCV system myself, this weekend, and what did I find? A freakin' 2 1/2" crack in the return PCV hose going into the throttle body. The crack is on the underside, and not visually apparent, unless you remove the hose. I'm amazed all these geniuses at the shops I've had this truck at missed something so obvious.
So, I replaced both the PCV hoses, the valve, and the grommet. Guess what? The truck sounds noticeably different, and the damn thing isn't smoking under load, anymore, either.
The only thing that makes sense to me and the mechanic who's now looking at it with me is that the crack/leak in the return line led to a vacuum condition that sucked oil out of the valve cover, through the PCV, and into the throttle body. Does this even make sense? Is this cracked hose the possible reason that this engine has been consuming a quart every 200 miles?
Still remains to be seen whether or not the engine consumes oil, since I just got done doing all this Sunday night. Had my mechanic follow me, this afternoon, going up some fairly steep hills, in order to simulate load, and punched the accelerator to get the RPMs up to about 4000 at one point. No smoke. None. Three weeks ago, or so, I took it out, did the same thing--she produced a light, bluish smoke whenever the engine was under load, accellerating. Now, at least according to one observer, she's not smoking at all.
Did I mention I'd already sourced, and paid for, a replacement motor?
Gotta love it...
Have had the truck taken to two dealers and a recomended third party shop. All three couldn't find anything obvious, or so they said. I had about resigned myself to the fact that the rings were shot, mostly due to the blue smoke. One dealer refused to do a cylinder leak-down, due to the fact that "In your situation, it's a waste of money... Your rings are shot."
However, comma... I took a shot the PCV system myself, this weekend, and what did I find? A freakin' 2 1/2" crack in the return PCV hose going into the throttle body. The crack is on the underside, and not visually apparent, unless you remove the hose. I'm amazed all these geniuses at the shops I've had this truck at missed something so obvious.
So, I replaced both the PCV hoses, the valve, and the grommet. Guess what? The truck sounds noticeably different, and the damn thing isn't smoking under load, anymore, either.
The only thing that makes sense to me and the mechanic who's now looking at it with me is that the crack/leak in the return line led to a vacuum condition that sucked oil out of the valve cover, through the PCV, and into the throttle body. Does this even make sense? Is this cracked hose the possible reason that this engine has been consuming a quart every 200 miles?
Still remains to be seen whether or not the engine consumes oil, since I just got done doing all this Sunday night. Had my mechanic follow me, this afternoon, going up some fairly steep hills, in order to simulate load, and punched the accelerator to get the RPMs up to about 4000 at one point. No smoke. None. Three weeks ago, or so, I took it out, did the same thing--she produced a light, bluish smoke whenever the engine was under load, accellerating. Now, at least according to one observer, she's not smoking at all.
Did I mention I'd already sourced, and paid for, a replacement motor?
Gotta love it...
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Did I mention I'd already sourced, and paid for, a replacement motor?
sounds very possible, keep updates on here what turns out, you might need to do seafoam or something to clean out the system
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- #26
I'm going to keep monitoring the engine, take it out on the road for a road trip, or two, and then take it from there. The Seafoam is a very likely next step, if she's quit drinking the oil. If not, well, there's another engine to go into there.
I almost hope that there is something wrong with the damn thing, at this point. I guess I now have another long block to start getting ready for the 300,000-600,000 mile point... <sigh> I did have some other plans for that money, too--like freakin' sliders and a new rear bumper...
I almost hope that there is something wrong with the damn thing, at this point. I guess I now have another long block to start getting ready for the 300,000-600,000 mile point... <sigh> I did have some other plans for that money, too--like freakin' sliders and a new rear bumper...
It certainly looks as if you got it figured out. Good job!!
Are you still running the 20/50? I was using 1qt/800-1000 miles running 5-30 Mobil 1. I switched to Rotella synthetic 5-40 and I have only dropped to the 1/2 full mark (~1qt) at 2800mi into this change. I've been told that you may not see much difference the first oil change, but you should definately have less consumption on the Rotella after the second change. I guess all the old Mobil oil is flushed out by the second oil change.
Are you still running the 20/50? I was using 1qt/800-1000 miles running 5-30 Mobil 1. I switched to Rotella synthetic 5-40 and I have only dropped to the 1/2 full mark (~1qt) at 2800mi into this change. I've been told that you may not see much difference the first oil change, but you should definately have less consumption on the Rotella after the second change. I guess all the old Mobil oil is flushed out by the second oil change.
I think so. My understanding is that under normal operations, the PCV (Positive Crankshaft Ventalation) Valve only opens to relieve positive pressure built up in the valve cover. With the intake pulling air through a hole in the PCV hose, it makes sense that would create vacuum against the PCV valve keeping that open and sucking significant amounts of oil through the intake.
Now the question is... have you sucked enough oil through the system to cause a problem. IIRC one member (maybe landtank, but if not don't run off and get your panties all in a sniff, my memory may be mis-recollecting
) had to tare down the motor to clean and rebuilt parts that were fouled and caked with oil as a result of a similar problem. Try a search, to see if this is correct.These hoses will crack and split over time. So for those in the PM mode, be sure to replace this along with the PCV valve periodically. Cheap parts.
:Beer:
Rookie2
i replaced the hose when i replace the pcv due to cracks along both end of the hose, its amazing how rubbery the new ones are, you start to think the old ones are hard plastic after a while
Austrailian Toyota dealer
They are on Austrailian 80's with the fuel injected 4.5L 1FZ-FE
Hijack over.
Dave
Waiiit, you mean a new crate 1FZ-FE is $2,700 or $6,000+$2,700=$8,700?A paultry $2,700.00
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It ain't $2700
A paultry $2,700.00
That's the short block cost from C-Dan. The long block price would be a leeeetle higher.
-B-
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- #36
uh-yup... I priced a Toyota reman from the local dealer... With install, they only wanted $10,300.00.
The service rep didn't even blink when he said that.
Of course, this is the same dealership that wanted to charge me $1,600.00 for doing the front axle, less parts.
I nearly had a coronary, trying not to laugh in his face. Sad thing is, I suspect that he was serious...
The service rep didn't even blink when he said that.
Of course, this is the same dealership that wanted to charge me $1,600.00 for doing the front axle, less parts.
I nearly had a coronary, trying not to laugh in his face. Sad thing is, I suspect that he was serious...