Do I need a new engine?

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Dec 10, 2004
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Throwing this one out for the collective, here...

Apologies for the length, but it's one of those problems that just doesn't fit into a paragraph. Please bear with me, as I relate my tale of woe.

I own a 1993 FZJ-80, late model year production, with the R-134 refrigerant. Has roughly 130,000 miles on the odometer, and I'm pretty anal about maintenance, although, not to an IdahoDoug level.

I bought it from a 'mud member, and, at the time, I thought I did due diligence, and was getting a decent rig. However, it appears I may have let one get by me.

After the first oil change, when I baselined all the fluids (PO did an oil change right before I picked it up), the truck started drinking oil like it was going out of style. First two thousand or so miles, it didn't consume much, at all. At the moment, about 2 years in, it's doing roughly a quart every 200 miles. Particularly when driven on the highway--around town, it's not so bad.

What's baffling to me, and every mechanic I've had looking at it, is that it's not smoking anywhere near what you'd expect for this amount of oil use, if it were the rings. All the minor seal leaks have been taken care of, and it's not dripping oil when parked anymore, at all. The plugs aren't fouled, but do have fairly heavy ash deposits. Compression is good, actually quite high for a rig that old, and all cylinders are about the same pressure levels, over 200 psi. (I think that's what the mechanic is writing down, here... It's within spec, and actually, pretty good.). No noticeable smoke in the mornings, either, when you start it. Not entirely sure if it smokes under load--nothing noticeable from the driver's seat, although, my sister says she's been told it smoked going up hills, when she was driving it while I was in Iraq. No details on what color smoke, or how much, due to the fact it was another chick following her somewhere...

What there is, is a lot of oil in the intake. Where it's coming from is another question, entirely. The PCV valve, and all the vacuum lines, appear to be serviceable, and properly installed, so we think we've ruled that out.

The only thing we can think is that the valve stem seals are gone, but there isn't any way to tell if that's the real problem, and I'd hate to spend $1100.00 to find out the problem is in the lower end of the engine, like the cylinder rings.

My issue is that we don't have a solid diagnosis for why this rig is drinking oil like this. The possibility exists that one of the previous owners may have overheated the engine, at some point, but it doesn't behave as though that happened, and I've never had the temperature guage go over the half-way point, even in the summer, on a mountain pass, with the AC going full-blast.

The 'mud member I bought it from did tell me he'd had to put in a new Toyota radiator (which recently started leaking around the tanks, just replaced it with an after-market CSF radiator due to availability issues) about a year and a half before I bought it. Unspecified reasons--just said it needed to be replaced. And, there were some posts he made on here about "a friend's" PHH blowing out while the friend's wife was driving their FZJ-80. At this point, I don't know what to think about the possibilities, but it does make me wonder. Who knows? I do question, now, if it was really my rig that had the blown PHH, and I wound up buying it without being informed. Why it didn't consume the oil it does now, until after I did my baseline, I have no idea. Which is why I can't really say. I really wish I'd saved that oil for analysis, though...

I think that's all the pertinent facts. If there's something I've forgotten to mention, please ask. If there's a test, or diagnostic I haven't done, please point it out. I think the only thing that we haven't done is a full-scale cylinder leak-down test, due to the lack of equipment at the shop that's looking at it. Mechanic also says that won't really tell me much, if it's the oil rings that are bad, and the compression rings are still good, which is what would have to be the case for the compression numbers to still be what they are.

What I'd like to know is if anyone out there on the board has a suggestion for something else I and the mechanics I've had looking at it may have missed (including one dealer recommended by the board, and an outside shop, recommended by Landpimp...). I really am at a loss, as to why this thing is burning this much oil.

My options appear to be, at this point, to either try replacing the engine with a rebuilt motor, which is prohibitively expensive (try 4300.00, plus core fees, from ATK, or 5300.00 from SOR), or buying a used engine from Cruiserparts.net for about 2500.00, and having that installed. Either that, or paying for a rebuild on the engine I've got now, which looks like it might come in around 4000.00-5000.00, and find out, mid-way through, that the engine isn't rebuildable, because it was overheated. Fourth option is, I could just have the top-end done, to take care of the possible problem with the valve stem seals, which of course, could turn out not to be the issue, as the actual cause for the oil consumption is something else entirely. Mechanic also tells me that he's not a big fan of top-end rebuilds, because they tend to be a waste of time--if the engine needs that done, then there are likely issues that will appear in the lower end, in short order. Particularly if the previous owner toasted the engine, and didn't tell me about it. I guess the valve stem seals tend to go first, in overheat situations?

Sadly, I've gotten nowhere near the amount of money out of this truck that I've put into it, and I rather like the way it drives, so I don't want to get rid of it. I also need a reliable daily driver, but at this point, am I throwing good money after bad? I'd like to be able to get a reasonable amount of mileage out of this thing, without having to throw much more money at it. I've probably got about 14,000.00, including all the work I had Toyota do on it, into the rig, and I owe another 2800.00 on it. I need a reliable daily driver for the next couple of years, while I go to school after I retire from the military. Plus, of course, the occasional foray into the forests...

The option of doing unto others as may have been done unto me isn't out there--I refuse to do something as unethical as pass this truck on to someone else, with this issue unsolved, and I just don't see finding someone who loves Land Cruisers so much that they'd take this issue on, knowing about it. Unless... Landpimp, are you listening? :)

I kinda doubt a dealer would be stu... Uhmm... Willing, yeah, willing, to give me much on the trade-in, either. Even if I was comfortable with doing that to them, so they could pass the issue on to someone else, down the line.

I suppose I could part the damn thing out, but, geez... That seems a waste for a rig that drives as nicely as this one does. Also, major hassle, and a long time to see my money come back out of it.

Any ideas, folks?
 
Get a leak down test done, and report back.

Change the PCV valve and see if consumption goes down. Are you sure it isn't leaking? BTW-a bad PCV can cause excessive oil consumption, maybe you'll be lucky. If it burns that oil, it should smoke.

Any oil in the coolant?

I would not rebuild the motor of a truck running well and not smoking.
 
Cruiserdrew--zero oil in the coolant. The coolant was pristine when I put in the new radiator, too, aside from some sediment. PCV valve was changed when I baselined the fluids, and it is still serviceable, according to the tests.

And, I agree with you--I don't see a reason to rebuild or replace, but if it's using that much oil...??? Something's gotta be wrong. And, I'd rather deal with it on my schedule, rather then when the engine decides to finally die on me, ya know? That tends to happen, in my experience, when you're on a mountain pass, in the middle of winter, in a blizzard. Plus, I don't like the idea of all the additional damage that could come from the engine blowing itself up.

I may throw another PCV valve in, and see what happens, but the mechanics tell me it's fine, when they check it. I also can't find a problem with it, as a reasonably competent "lay mechanic". According to the FSM test, it's still good.

When they do the cylinder leak-down, what am I looking for, and what is that going to tell me? The mechanic I'm talking to tells me that about all I'm going to get out of that, given the high compression they're getting, is a set of readings that aren't really going to help diagnose the problem. I may have that done, anyway, just to rule out bad rings, but if it's only the oil rings that are bad, will that show with a leak-down?

Steve, I've tried about everything in that engine, attempting to find something it didn't like to consume. Right now, I've got Castrol 20-50 (yeah, I know--almost like honey on a cold morning, but I thought, what the hell, let's try a heavier oil... I'll change to a lighter weight before it gets cold, if I still have that engine in it.), and that's not seeming to make much difference. I've run Castrol "High mileage engine" oil, Rotella, all in varying weights. I don't think I've let that sucker go over 2000 miles, without changing the oil and trying something else, since I bought it. I should mention that the oil seems to get real dirty, real quick, compared to my other Toyotas. Right now, the oil has about 400 miles on it, and it's already a nice, dark brown. Combustion by-products, I'm guessing? But, as I said, the compression is good and high. The oil in the intake is also wet, not carbonized, so I'm thinking it's not neccessarily from the crankcase getting filled with blown-by combustion gasses, either.

Some of what this engine is doing would lead one to suspect the PCV system, but we can't find anything wrong with that, when that system is checked. Some of the other symptoms would also tend to rule out that as an issue.
 
What's baffling to me, and every mechanic I've had looking at it, is that it's not smoking anywhere near what you'd expect for this amount of oil use, if it were the rings.

It's either burning the oil or leaking it. You need to spend some quality time trying to find out as this is your first indicator of where to look for the problem. Have someone else drive it hard while you follow.

How are the cats?

-B-
 
About the leak down-If your compression is good and the rings and valves are good(the leak down let's you separate out the rings from the valves), there is NO WAY you should rebuild that motor. If the valves are bad, then you only need a head job (no comedy intended). If the rings are bad-maybe it's rebuild time.

PCV is easy and cheap. Just do it. There isn't really a test except the rattle test, which is pretty subjective.

Beyond that, switch to a higher viscosity oil-Delo 15w-40 would be an excellent and inexpensive choice.

I hope this isn't your engine. I'm only 20k behind you and use about 1/2 quart in 5000 miles-not enough to add any between changes.
 
I'm going to tell you not to worry about it. Some 80's seem to have a propensity to eat oil when driven hard or on long freeway trips. Mine did this on several trips from San Francisco to San Diego, eating up a quart in 500 miles. Strangly, in the past 10,000 miles, consumption has settled way down to about 1 quart every 3000+ miles.

If the engine is running fine, you aren't fouling plugs or any other outward problems, don't worry about it, it's a known "feature."

BTW, the fact that your oil looks dirty tells you nothing about its condition. If you want to find out, do a used oil analysis and send it to blackstone. Go back to 5w-40 rotella synthetic, and leave it in there for 5000 miles.
 
If the valve stem seals were bad, you should get a bunch of smoke when you first crank it in the morning. I'm at 195k and use about a quart every 2500 miles....with no smoke. Good luck to you.
 
I would definitely NOT consider pulling the engine yet. I would make sure that all hoses and PCV valve, etc are OEM. I also had heavy consumption of oil on my last trip down to Moab, about 200 miles, used 1 quart of oil. On the way back home used about 1/4 quart. Just make sure your oil is full and follow Cary's advice.
 
Could he have an injector leaking badly and diluting the oil causing the high consumption?

-B-
 
If the valve stem seals were bad, you should get a bunch of smoke when you first crank it in the morning. I'm at 195k and use about a quart every 2500 miles....with no smoke. Good luck to you.

x2. The seals expand quickly after start up but will let oil trickle into combustion chamber as the motor cools after shut down. Look at your exhaust as you turn and fire.
 
My .02 cents

I purchased my 1994 LC about a year ago with 185,000 miles. For the first 6 months, the vehicle never left town. Just around town driving - 5 to 6 miles at a time. I took my son to a cub scout camp about 150 miles south and when I arrived at the camp site I checked the oil and it was low. I ended up adding 2 quarts to get it to the full mark. It got me pretty scared and I stopped about every half hour and checked the oil on the way back. It seems that every time I drive the LC for about 30 minutes or more, I get a little consumption. With the mileage now at 192,000 miles, I just check it once a week and if I am going to drive it out of town, I bring a gallon of oil.

RIley
 
Could he have an injector leaking badly and diluting the oil causing the high consumption?

-B-

Used Oil Analysis would show this. When I had high consumption, I never showed even .5% fuel in the oil. Like many I have experience the high consumption on road trips, but strangly it stopped. Now even on road trips, I consume one quart every 3000 miles or so.
 
To see if you PVC system is the culprit you can build a cheap catch can and put inline between the PVC and the intake. I was suprised how well it worked on the Tacoma

Air Compressor Filter
Two Fittings

edit: not my pics, just did a quick search....
catchcan.webp
ccoil.webp
 
If you want to find out, do a used oil analysis and send it to blackstone. Go back to 5w-40 rotella synthetic, and leave it in there for 5000 miles.

Best advice in this thread! (Sorry guys)

Blackstone Oil analysis is relatively cheap and painless, and they have an uncanny knack for studying used oil, its almost an obsession on their part.

You'd be best off giving them a call to let then know why you're sending the oil in, and I'd be willing to be they will at least be able to narrow down the problem for you. They are very informative, and they'll send the collection kit to you for free, you just have to pay for the analysis.
 
Thanks, all.

I think my plan of attack, here, is to get the cylinder leak-down test done, along with an oil analysis from Blackstone. I'm probably going to give the air compressor filter thing a try, too, if the leak-down and the analysis are inconclusive. Hell, I may stick one on this weekend, if I can find the time. I wonder why none of the mechanics I've had look at this beast have thought of doing something like this?

Yet another argument in favor of ih8mud... If I have any money left when this is over, I'm buying a star. Which I shoulda done, before...

I'm also going to order all the vacuum hoses and a new PCV valve, put 'em on, and see if that makes a difference. I would be really pissed off if it turns out the first one I put on was bad, from the get-go, and that's what's caused all the problems from the beginning. Which, I suppose, is possible--I think I changed that valve the first time I changed the oil, and then did the baseline when I had the time, about a month later.

<sigh> I just love it when I have a situation that baffles the experts...
 
I'm also going to order all the vacuum hoses and a new PCV valve, put 'em on, and ...

Get the grommet when you get the PCV. Only use Toyota because the other's don't fit well (either end.)

-B-
 
Beowuf--Just got off the phone with CDan, as a matter of fact. Ordered both valve and grommet, plus both of the hoses.

The ones I put in before were OEM. However, comma, I didn't replace the hoses, as they still appeared serviceable.
 
Just got off the phone with CDan, as a matter of fact. Ordered both valve and grommet, plus both of the hoses.

Please tell us you didn't give him your credit card information or the colour of your truck. :eek:

-B-
 
Please tell us you didn't give him your credit card information or the color of your truck. :eek:

-B-

I'm sure Dan explained that it is just easier to go ahead and get on an installment plan from the beginning. :D :D
 
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