DIY / Budget Fix: 200 Series EVAP Canister Replacement using LS460 Canister

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Joined
Feb 3, 2019
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Location
Denver,Co
Hey IH8MUD!

Wanted to share a fix I recently completed on my 200 Series Land Cruiser for a faulty EVAP canister.

I’d been dealing with really bad gas smells on my 200 ever since purchasing it about 2 years ago. Up until recently, there were no check engine lights associated with it, but I had read through all the threads outlining challenges other 200 owners faced with this same issue. Once the codes finally popped, I knew it was time to address it.

The codes associated with my problem were: p043e p043f p2401p2402 and p2419.

I knew that my options were limited and that replacing the canister was inevitable. After doing some online sleuthing and watching this video www.youtube.com/live/xubgil8NeYI%3Fsi%3DLdu0EOwNN3ycWvxj I had the confidence to buy an LS460 Canister instead of dropping big money on a brand-new OEM 200 Series replacement unit. I picked up the LS460 unit because visually everything looked almost identical. Credit to the guy in the video for giving me the confidence to pull the trigger.

The ls460 canister cost me $75 plus shipping. And supposedly came from a 2007-2009 LS460.
evap.webp


The Comparison & Fitment
Once I had the LS460 canister in hand and compared it side-by-side with the 200 Series unit, I confirmed that the main body, purge valve, leak detection pump, hose connection ports and plugs are all identical. The dirtier of the two is what came from my 200, the cleaner from the ls460.

IMG_5300.webp


The only differences are:
  • The mounting bracket configuration.
  • The position of the brass threaded inserts on the bottom of the canister casing.
The Solution
To make it fit the 200 Series frame location:

  1. I extracted the brass threaded inserts from the canister casing. To remove them I threaded a bolt into the insert on the old 200 canister and tightened it until the insert broke free from the plastic housing. From there, I was able to use the bolt as a handle to pry it right out.
    1. IMG_5336.webp
  2. I relocated and pressed them into the prelocated positions to align with the stock 200 Series mounting bracket. To do that I took a long bolt and threaded it into the brass insert and used a torch to heat the brass insert up just enough to press it into the LS460 canister housing.
    1. IMG_E5302.webp
  3. Remove ls460 brackets and replace with 200 series mounting brackets
    1. IMG_5337.webp
 
Last edited:
Testing & Verification

  1. Mounted the LS460 canister using the factory 200 bracket and hooked up all factory hoses and harness connectors.
    1. IMG_5338.webp
    2. IMG_5339.webp
  2. Fired up the truck and plugged into Techstream to perform an active test—confirmed all valves operated and cycled properly under command.
    1. IMG_5344.webp
  3. Cleared codes and took it for a test drive.
Results
It’s been 2 weeks of daily driving now with zero check engine lights or pending codes back on, and the gas smell is completely gone. In two weeks, I’ll be putting it to a 3,000-mile endurance test across the US West.

Hope this helps anyone looking for an alternative EVAP fix!
 
Maybe this can go into best upgrades for under $100?? Hahaha
I assume extracting the brass inserts from the 200 canister is a destructive operation. If not please let us know how you did it.

BTW you may want to edit the link. I guess the correct one is www.youtube.com/live/xubgil8NeYI%3Fsi%3DLdu0EOwNN3ycWvxj
Thanks! Link fixed!

The removal was actually non-destructive. I threaded a bolt into the insert on the old 200 canister and tightened it until the insert broke free from the plastic housing. From there, I was able to use the bolt as a handle to pry it right out.

After that, I took a long bolt and threaded it into the brass insert and used a torch to heat the brass insert up just enough to press it into the LS460 canister housing.

Here is a photo of the canister after removing the threaded inserts:
IMG_5347.webp
 
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