I have a 91 fj80 I am trying to get it running agin, no spark, and I am chaceing down what needs to be replaced. I have followed my repair book but still stuck, my book said I should get a reading of resistance in a set range and I am getting double what they say, it said if it is not specified then replace the distributor. I am getting a reading its just wrong... Do I need a new distributor? Can I just replace the pick up? Can I check the rest of the system somehow to make sure I don't need an ignitor?
distributor rebuild
- Thread starter Butterz970
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Check for spark out of the coil by grounding it to some metal if it's good there the coil and ignitor are good. The dizzy I'd probably bad. And no you can't just replace the pick ups unless you find some used ones. 1a auto online has them for 150 bucks not oem but good fit and a third the price
- Thread starter
- #3
I don't have spark at the coil, and I have replaced the coil already because it gave me a high resistant reading too..
- Thread starter
- #4
If I don't have spark at the coil should I look at the igniteor or the distributor? Or both? Can I check any of them more than I already have?
For the record, wire coils don't "slightly" increase in resistance. They typically short or open. I would hazard a guess that since "all" of your resistance readings are higher than spec on multiple units, there's either something wrong with the meter your using or the leads to the meter are resistive.
While it's a possibility that the distributor coils have become corroded on the connection points, the ignition coil is completely sealed and potted. I doubt this is the case. I would try to borrow another DMM from someone and retest.
I am in a similar "no spark" situation right now. Everything checks 100% back to the ECU. I even swapped out the ECU with a spare I have. I have an igniter coming today.
While it's a possibility that the distributor coils have become corroded on the connection points, the ignition coil is completely sealed and potted. I doubt this is the case. I would try to borrow another DMM from someone and retest.
I am in a similar "no spark" situation right now. Everything checks 100% back to the ECU. I even swapped out the ECU with a spare I have. I have an igniter coming today.
- Thread starter
- #7
Ok, I wasnt thinking the meter is bad I bought it after it died on me and I needed one, but it deffenitly could be the case, I did read your thread and was going to ask how you checked yours? You mentiond a different plug?
- Thread starter
- #8
I'm a real newbie and I apologize for my stupid questions, but what is a DMM? I found a used dizz and a ignitor guy wants $50 for the dizz and $25 for the ignitor is it worth picking up just to have them? Thank you all for the help! I love my LC and realy want it back up and running! You said you checked the ecu... Could that also be something with mine? I have checked all the connections and none look louse or bad.
The system works something like this:
Pulses are developed by the pick up coils in the distributor.
Those pulses go directly to the ECU and are re-timed according to the ECU's programming.
The ECU spits out a trigger pulse to the igniter which in turn fires the primary in the ignition coil.
As opposed to messing with the connector on the side of the distributor, I went directly to the ECU connector to check distributor pick up coil resistance. This both confirms that the coils are in good shape and that the ECU is in fact getting the signals.
The largest of the 3 connectors on the ECU, pin 4 is NE; pin 17 is G-; pin 18 is G.
For the igniter, pin 3 is pin 1 on the igniter connector; pin 22 is pin 2 on the igniter connector.
Checking it this way eliminates any possibility of bad wiring.
Pulses are developed by the pick up coils in the distributor.
Those pulses go directly to the ECU and are re-timed according to the ECU's programming.
The ECU spits out a trigger pulse to the igniter which in turn fires the primary in the ignition coil.
As opposed to messing with the connector on the side of the distributor, I went directly to the ECU connector to check distributor pick up coil resistance. This both confirms that the coils are in good shape and that the ECU is in fact getting the signals.
The largest of the 3 connectors on the ECU, pin 4 is NE; pin 17 is G-; pin 18 is G.
For the igniter, pin 3 is pin 1 on the igniter connector; pin 22 is pin 2 on the igniter connector.
Checking it this way eliminates any possibility of bad wiring.
DMM=digital multi meter.
Those are good prices and worth having even if yours are still good.
It's possible that your ECU is faulty, but very unlikely.
- Thread starter
- #11
WOW... yea my meter is f'ed!! I looked back at my first post and some one had said to try and jump start it... I feel stupid, it worked... So my guess is my meter was reading a full 12v but it wasn't actuly that high? I'm takeing this pos back and getting a different one!
