Diff. Lock Issue

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Update: pulled circuit board from ecu and checked the 4 diodes for continuity and holding the plugin to you the top right diode has none. The other 3 do. Diodes i think only alow current to flow one way or cleans up the signal? So i think that diode is toast.

Any one know what those 3 black deals are?

Yes, diodes are polarized and conduct in one direction. You can get fooled by checking them when they are still in a circuit if they are not isolated first. For example, diodes are used across the coil in a solenoid to clip the induced voltage spike when the magnetic field collapses and if you don’t remove or isolate it from the coil, it will appear to conduct in both directions.

Black deals are on Black Friday.
 
Still waiting for trans ecu relay to arive, I am trying to cross reference the diode (1E6F blue stripe on one end) and having no luck.
 
On my Rig, both the front and rear lockers work with the 12v applied to them (not elocker motor related not working). Also the front one will work with the switch and I hear the relay click, but the rear one, I hear no click and it will not lock. If I flip the switch to the rear locker, then lock it via 12 volts under the rig by the diff, I can run all day with the rear locked and going from front locked, to unlocked. As soon as I flip the rear to unlock it will unlock, but not lock again.

I've checked plugs on the body and all seems right.

Long story short, I am assuming something is broke/blown in the ECU for the lockers, any ideas if its the relay itself or one of these diode's. Pics would be great if someone has them on testing them or the relays and what to do.

I pulled the cover off the diff ecu and didn't see anything burnt or anything like that.
 
Well i just replaced the trans relay in the left kick panel and that did not do anything. I have pictures, i will post those. Are you talking about the ecu for the land cruiser? I will check the switch in the dash and then on the transfer case while it is pluged in. If those check out i will pull the actuator.
 
upload_2018-3-23_19-23-32.webp

This is the Trans Relay / ECU in the drivers kick paniel. Was not my problem,will do a couple more checks and if problem still exist I will remove the actuator.
 
@Kevin LeClaire Are you talking about the center diff lock not working or the axle diff locks?
 
I think it is the center diff the front wont get locked in the light wont come on in the dash the diff lock switch wont turn it on and when i put in low still wont come on. It did work then stoped, i have a part time kit installed also.
 
It is 97, no did not come with factory lockers I installed a cdl switch. Correct there is no box on the passenger kick panel, the plug is there. What I have on the drivers kick panel is the transmission relay.

I have taken both sensors out and with it compressed i get continuity and, even did the paper clip short and the cdl light came on on the dash. I will test the switches while still pluged in and replace the switch on the dash,I have an extra.

I will re read those threds again.
 
I tested the cdl sensor switch with a paper clip and the light came on on the dash. What does this test prove? I am getting power to the actuator and the actuator is the problem or the switch is good? One would think that power is going through the wires and such all the way to the actuator so the actuator is the culprit, right.
 
I am reading the thred cdl will not engage, great info i will perform those tests to check relay.
 
I tested the cdl relay and the only one that functions, clicks is +12v to pin 9 and ground to pin 10 bottom left. So i will see if I can get those relays and rebuiled the cdl relay. what du you guys think. Thanks for directing me to those threds stucknKS
 
I tested the cdl relay and the only one that functions, clicks is +12v to pin 9 and ground to pin 10 bottom left. So i will see if I can get those relays and rebuiled the cdl relay. what du you guys think. Thanks for directing me to those threds stucknKS

No problem. I was having a hard time trying to decipher which issue you were having so that’s why I asked. I’ve replaced a handful of the sensors but yours looks to be good. Without the sensor working it won’t engage the actuator (unless you did the 7 pin mod too).

Seems like you are on the righ track now with the actuator. My level of expertise has now been surpassed as I’ve not had that issue.
 
I have looke some, for the relays with no luck. If i could get my hands on several of those and keep a soldering iron close by I would feal some what ok knowing if the issue ever arose again i could get it fixed or to help someone else.

Was thinking what caused this to happen, years of service or if something is sharing the circuit and shorted, I doint know.
 
I was cleaning the in side of the cruiser noticed this
upload_2018-3-25_13-47-38.webp

so I went digging and found this D-4
Those 2 plugs up top there are the remote mirror sw and the rheostat sw the other should be dam well looks like it D-4 the front and rear Diff lock sw. D-4 has 5 pins 1,2 and 4 are used, 3 and 5 are empty. That should be the plugin for the rotary diff sw to lock the front or the rears ??

And I also have this now

Is this standard to have both diff locks in a cruiser?
 
This aint working out to good, ok next picture D-4 plug

D 4.webp
 
This is what I have now
 
I was cleaning the in side of the cruiser noticed this
View attachment 1662731
so I went digging and found this D-4
Those 2 plugs up top there are the remote mirror sw and the rheostat sw the other should be dam well looks like it D-4 the front and rear Diff lock sw. D-4 has 5 pins 1,2 and 4 are used, 3 and 5 are empty. That should be the plugin for the rotary diff sw to lock the front or the rears ??

And I also have this now

Is this standard to have both diff locks in a cruiser?

On a 97, the wiring is installed even on vehicles that didn't have factory installed axle diff locks. So that plug should be there just like the one in the passenger kick panel that you previously found where the axle diff lock ecu would be.
 
Well I got 3 used relays and all 3 are in/op, only one relay works on each circuit board. So what I can do is, I have to check to see if all 3 relays are the same and if they are I will desolder the good one's off two of the boards and make one good one. New ones are expensive.
 
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