D’animal’s 1991 FJ 80

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

D'Animal

Rescuer of Beagles & Landcruisers
Moderator
Joined
Mar 31, 2006
Threads
432
Messages
21,393
Location
Central California
I have a friend/coworker who bought this 80 series in March 2011. IH8MUD Forum - Search Results

Now sometime in this rigs life, it has gotten so hot that the front of the valve cover had the paint/powdercoating burned off at the thermostat housing. Someone, not my coworkers, added 2" spacers to the back of the hood. The spacers allow more airflow to keep the rig from overheating.

My coworker was here from Argentina as an intern and wanted a LandCruiser for him and his family to toodly around in. He never had a problem with it. He litterally drove around town. He never put the thing in 4low or engaged the CDL. I think he parked it on a curb once.

He left Oct 1st and headed back south and another coworker bought it from him.

Current Owner is pretty mechanically inclined on a :banana::banana::banana: scale of 10. She changes her own oil, changes her flat tires, checks fluid levels regularly, jump starts vehicles and swaps out a battery when needed.

She noticed the rig was getting harder to start. It has been getting cold here in the mornings so maybe it was a just temp thing. So she would have to jump start it once a week. She was driving down the road the other day and a puff of white smoke came out from under the hood and the temp gauge spiked. She shut it off and let it cool down for 1/2 hour. She added water to over flow and took off driving for home. She had to stop and let it cool down a few more times. The overflow never went down.

So now it will not start at all, dead battery and she asks me to take a look at it. I hear the story and explain to here that she may have blown the motor or at least cracked the head.

So I go and pick it up with my tow rig and trailer. Battery is dead so I winch it on the trailer. I get it to my shed and do some basic diagnostics. Battery is just plain bad. No water in the oil, overflow tank full, radiator empty and find the water pump is so blown that water pours out the weep hole as I'm adding it to the radiator. I fire it up for 30 seconds and do not hear a rod knock. So far, so good.

I strip the 3FE down and replace the waterpump and thermostat and the belts and the hoses. It was missing the AC belt and I found two of the lower hoses had holes in them. I put it all back together and fired it up with the heater on full blast.

The system burps, add more fluid, burps again, add more fluid, etc. I added 3 gallons and started on the 4th and I had old faithful blowing out the radiator cap. It sounded like a steam vent blowing. No big deal, it must still be burping since the thermostat opening and the air purged out of the heating system. Still no rod knock, good.

I shut it down and let it cool off and went to start it an hour later. Fires up and runs rough, idles fast. Smooths out as the operating temp is reached.

I let it cool down agian for about an hour or so. I fire it up and was going to take it for a test drive. I put it in R and it died like you shut the switch off. Now it Cranks but No start.

Any suggestions?
 
Wow. Good story. Sounds like this rig has been rode hard and put up wet more than once. It also sounds like you're approaching it from a logical standpoint. Take care of the basic things and move on.

Crank, no start:
If it was running and died in reverse, check the intake tube for a major tear on the bottom of the bellows part. This will open up in reverse, cause air to bypass the AFM and shut down the fuel pump.
Is the CE light on with the key in the ON position without the motor running? If not, then you have some EFI issues to correct, but I suspect it is just fine.
Also check the fusible links off the positive battery terminal. There is a set of 3, with 2 going to a plastic junction box and the 3rd going to a small round connector.

Let's work on getting the motor started and move on from there.
 
Thanks for the input.

The other item I forgot to mention is the rig has 178k on it.

A few things I forgot to mention is the 2 sensors on driverside of the of the thermostat housing have been broke and literally glued back together. One has a green plug end and the other is a black end. They are not making contact they way they are intended.

There is a black wire coming from a ground near the #1 sparkplug. It connects right begin the AC compressor. The other end has a big long spade connector that looks factory. It looks like it is a possible ground that would plug into the wiring harness. It was intentionaly pinched between the cast iron AC bracket and the motor mount bracket. I do not see anwhere this would plug into but logic tells me it it is not suppose to be loosely tapped to the AC hose.

The more I look, the more I find little things like this.

I will get into the suggested items.

Thank You and our receptionist thanks you as well. (It is her rig)
 
The connector with the black plug directly below the water outlet of the upper thermostat housing is the cold start injector time switch. The one below that with the green plug is the water temp sensor for the ECU.

The CSITS will lead to increased crank time before starting, but it wouldn't kill the motor once running. In fact neither of these would kill the motor. The WTS can cause poor mixture and rough running.

They both should be addressed eventually and I have spares of both I could send you for diagnostic purposes. I would want them back at some point though. The time switch is a PITA to get out. You need a deep 22mm socket IIRC.

I have to look and see where that ground by #1 runs to, but it is connected. I don't remember where right now, but I want to say it runs to the coil. I'm too old and crusty to remember.
 
The compression # are
#6 - 125
#5 - 100
#4 - 93
#3 - 95
#2 - 100
#1 - 90


The #6 spark plug was loose and cracked.
Horse Paddocks 153.webp
Horse Paddocks 154.webp
Horse Paddocks 152.webp
 
Last edited:
With your advice, I believe I have narrowed it down to the Temp sensors on the thermostat housings and a bad engine ground.

The connector with the black plug directly below the water outlet of the upper thermostat housing is the cold start injector time switch. The one below that with the green plug is the water temp sensor for the ECU.

The CSITS will lead to increased crank time before starting, but it wouldn't kill the motor once running. In fact neither of these would kill the motor. The WTS can cause poor mixture and rough running.

They both should be addressed eventually and I have spares of both I could send you for diagnostic purposes. I would want them back at some point though. The time switch is a PITA to get out. You need a deep 22mm socket IIRC.

I have to look and see where that ground by #1 runs to, but it is connected. I don't remember where right now, but I want to say it runs to the coil. I'm too old and crusty to remember.
 
Last edited:
This rig has a long history of running hot.

With the new water pump, thermostat and new belts properly tensioned, the tem gauge still has not went above the middle area of the gauge.

It runs/idles better than it has since I have known the rig. It still dies when the thermostat opens adn will not restart until it cools down. I ahve a set of Water Temp Sensors that I'm going to install adn see if that cures the problem.
 
It still dies when the thermostat opens adn will not restart until it cools down.

There has to be some sort of severe A/F ratio problem for this to happen. You should be able to unplug the water temp sensor that feeds the ECU without killing the motor. It will run poorly and throw a code, but it won't stall.

There has to be something else in play here.

Also those 2 small 90 degree hoses off the thermostat should be replaced. The OEM parts are inexpensive and those look pretty swollen to me.
Replace the fan clutch with an OEM one. I'm sure it's part of the problem as well.
 
Last edited:
I did a head gasket on a rover one time, only to find out it was the clutch fan. :bang:

Not a mistake you ever make twice. :hillbilly:
 
I replaced two of the WTS that were broken.

My time did not allow me to tear the front of the engine back off to use a wrench or to remove the smog pump to use a thin wall 19mm socket.

I improvised by cutting the handle off of a bar wrench for a stihl chain saw. Worked like a charm.

To gain more access room, I removed the top radiator hose. I removed the top end of the curved hose that is behind the smog pump. I removed the top sensor since it was broken anyway. This allowed me to use the chain saw bar wrench to reach in through the belt and loosen and unscrew the old temp sensor and put the new one in. The top sensor is a piece of cake.

Took maybe 15 minutes and that is counting the time it took to cut the handle off the bar wrench.

I burped the cooling system and took it for a test drive. Runs as it should and does not go past the middle of the temp gauge.


Thanks all for you assistance with this.
Horse Paddocks 169.webp
Horse Paddocks 168.webp
 
Back
Top Bottom