Let me throw my $0.02 on your response
Alright:
8"-Parts available local most anywhere
-stronger aftermarket axles
-easy fix when breakage occurs
Fixing a toyota front, or a d44 front is a mute point. They are both very similar to work on. Biggest difference is that the 3rd does not drop out. BUT the axle housing is much stronger on most d44's
-keep toyota
-removable 3rd (much easier imo)
can be built for anything
D44- WIDER! So unless your going to do a rear D44 or MASSIVE wheel spacers watch out!
d44 fronts can be found from 58" wide (scout II), to 67" wide (chevy 3/4 ton). There are alot of options on what to grab the axle out of. I think the talk was about running a wagoneer front, which are 58.5 or 61 depending on the year/options. Meaning it will be .5 or 3" wider than the toy rear. Not a big issue.
Stong aftermarket support
interchangeable with chevy-ford-dodge-heep-etc.
cheaper-available everwhere
not oe
purists would h8 you
Great points
Steering is easy with a dana axle. Buy a highsteer kit, run 3/4 ton chevy drag link ends, and buy a toyota pitman arm with the same taper. They are less common, but still avaliable.
My hold back would be with the brakes. With a dana axle, you probably will have to run a different master cyl/purporting valve, vs with a mini truck axle, you could run fj60 rotors, and keep your current calipers. Brake lines would seem like they would be an issue, but G&J Aircraft in Ontario, ca will make you custom stainless soft lines to go from the frame to the caliper. Not a big issue.
Its hit or miss IMHO between a d44 and a yota axle. The axle Im building is a diamond front, but I am 3x as much into it as my buddys wagonner d44 front, with negligible strength differences.
Stuff I have broken on my yota axle:
Steering studs
bent 4 housings
3 diffs.
Stuff guys in my club break:
Toyota guy(1):
steering arm studs
hub studs
cracked housing (all the after-market braces caused the axle to get weak, and cracked near the diff)
D44 guys (2):
Hubs. Every Trip, 2-3 hubs.