CXRacing Header with 3" SS over the frame Exhaust (1 Viewer)

Loki94

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Initial Impressions of the CXRacing headers

Good:
  • Very Sexy
  • Good looking outer welds
  • Heavy gauge equal length runners
  • Fits well (unfortunately its too big to be completely under the frame but that is unavoidable)
  • Good price – (IMO)
Not so Good
  • They clearly didn’t back purge it (or didn’t do it well)
  • It came with grade 5 bolts (easily fixed but why skimp on less than $20)
  • The bung setup doesn’t support 94 and earlier factory O2 requirements
  • The down pipe is not 16 gauge (I didn’t measure it but I’m certain its not)
JUST BAD
The bungs are not positioned correctly - not even close to 9 and 3 position - I hate to be over negative but C’Mon Man! That is a rookie move coming from a race shop. I would like to use it as an air fuel sensor, but I really don't want to burn through sensors or worse make it unreliable 😒 Plus it is described as being for 90-97 - that's not true 94 and under need 2 bracket O2 sensors and they need to be set for the firs and last 3 cylinders.

bad bung placement.jpg


Header Installation
  • The size of the runners makes it impossible get a socket on some of the Nuts (I fear the day I need to change the gasket)
  • Runners 2 and 3 must be cut-out and modified to fit under the Supercharger
  • You either must remove the Supercharger or be a contortionist. I opted for contortionist, but it hurt during and after and provoked more than a few F-Bombs I'm sure the neighbors could hear 😲)

header pic.jpg


As I mentioned the ECU for my 94 requires 2 O2 sensors for the first and last 3 cylinders respectively, the CXRacing system does not account for this, so I added them here about 6-7 inches from the colectors. You can also see that the brake line bracket and fender needed to be modified to allow the down pipes to fit.

Routing the exhaust is very similar to the original 94 and what many others have done over the back frame. I do not have a body lift, so it’s tight all over.

The headers and down pipe were coated by Jet Hot and the exhaust pipes wrapped up to the catalytic converter to reduce heat under the hood and help hold the exhaust temp to the CAT which is by necessity a long way down stream.

over the frame front pic.jpg


you can also see here a CV joint heat shield to protect it from the catalytic converter.


The brackets are key and the original rubber dampener brackets provide enough rigidity to prevent excessive shaking. I trust there is enough give in them to spare the welds and vband clamps.

brackets.jpg


A few tips
  • I finalized the position of the most forward bracket last because any small change there affects the whole system. I used existing threaded wholes in both the first and last bracket.
  • I had to remove the pipes a few times to finalize brackets, add the bungs, add heat shielding…etc, so I marked the clamps by welding a dot on either side to line them up exactly same way each time.
dimples.jpg



Here is what I used
Qty​
3"OD 304L Tubing, 16 Gauge - 3' Length
1​
3"OD 45 Deg. 304L - 3" Radius, 6" Legs
6​
3" 90 Deg 304L Elbow w/ Tangent,
4​
3" Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator, 304L
1​
Verocious Motorsports V-Band Clamp Kit - 3"
5​
3" 90 Deg Elbow w/ Tangent, 304L
1​
3" 45 Deg Elbow w/ Tangent, 304L
1​
Thermo-Tec Adhesive Backed Aluminized Heat Barrier, 12" x 24"
1​
CXRacing Performance Header
1​
GESI G-Sport High Flow Catalytic Converter (3" IN/OUT x 4" Body Non EPA)
1​
O2 bung
2​
Denso 234-9042 Air Fuel Ratio Sensor
2​
Inferno Wrap (Scrap)
0​
2"x2" 304 stainless square tubing (scrap)
0​
4"4 304 stainless square tubing (scrap)
0​

Welding settings and tips (Disclaimer I’m a beginner with a YouTube Degree but was happy with the results)
  • I used a pipe expanded with Cooper sheets pressed to the inner pipe to weld the Vbands (I haven't seen that mentioned at my YouTube University but it works great without purging)
  • I used food service silicone plugs with wholes to do the back purging (better than tape and 1/10th the cost of the actual purge plugs they sell)
  • Vband & bracket welds - Set to 80 amps, but I almost never gave it the full 80, I would say I had it between 40 and 60 most of the time. Set gas at 1 second pre flow and 3 seconds post flow.
  • Butt welds & O2 bungs - I used Pulse Tig set to 95 amps, with 30 pulses per second at 30% background and 30% pulse time but mostly stayed at about 80% of the amperage once the puddle was created.
 
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So I guess you haven't driven it? Can't wait to hear the sound and power comparison.

Looks like they sell a straight end kit and a curved up kit for over the frame which is cool.
 
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Cool. Next time I’m doing an exhaust, I’m gonna try and support all the V-band clamps by hangers instead of the pipe, so I can remove it by loosening v-bands and just leave the clamps in place. Also gives a bit more material to weld structure to for exhaust bushing/isolators.

The coating looks sharp, hopefully it holds up well.
 

leonard_nemoy

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Thank you so much for posting this up. I am pretty sure these are the headers on my 97 and the exhaust needs some re-fitting on my rig.

My go too local toyota expert told me my headers block the EGR port and were causing my P0401. Would you agree with his statement after installing yours?
 

Loki94

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So I guess you haven't driven it? Can't wait to hear the sound and power comparison.

Looks like they sell a straight end kit and a curved up kit for over the frame which is cool.
I cranked it up, (honestly it was louder than I expected) but it was pitch black and between working late and solid rain the past two days didn't get a video... I'm finishing up changing the plugs today... will post it asaptoday
 

Loki94

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Cool. Next time I’m doing an exhaust, I’m gonna try and support all the V-band clamps by hangers instead of the pipe, so I can remove it by loosening v-bands and just leave the clamps in place. Also gives a bit more material to weld structure to for exhaust bushing/isolators.

The coating looks sharp, hopefully it holds up well.
Sorry if I was mislead on that comment about the hangers saving the welds... I didn't hang it from the Vbands. I just meant I think there would be enough dampening of the vibration that the welds and clamps would not fail over time. I will say, my biggest concern is there isn't enough flex in the system up front. The front hanger set up is significantly more ridged than the OEM setup. So that rigidity may stress the headers and screw uo the gaskets, break, bolts, wearout the flex pipe etc... there just is now way around making it that rigid or it would be clanging off the frame.
 

mudgudgeon

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Sorry if I was mislead on that comment about the hangers saving the welds... I didn't hang it from the Vbands. I just meant I think there would be enough dampening of the vibration that the welds and clamps would not fail over time. I will say, my biggest concern is there isn't enough flex in the system up front. The front hanger set up is significantly more ridged than the OEM setup. So that rigidity may stress the headers and screw uo the gaskets, break, bolts, wearout the flex pipe etc... there just is now way around making it that rigid or it would be clanging off the frame.

Exhaust looks tidy!

I've done a couple similar systems, (see the turbo build thread in my signature) but for diesels. I use a braided flex as close to the engine down pipe as possible. Or before the first frame mount.

download (10).jpeg


Diesels shake a lot on start up and shut down, with tight tolerances to the frame and a flex joint, there's no issue.
The longer the flex the better
 
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As per above, I also have the flex joint.

In hindsight I would suggest two, one near the manifold or turbo, and a second one about 3-4’ back.

Loki, I have a stainless 3” system I put together, also no issues at the B-bands or welds cracking, I should have built the exhaust hanger brackets better and went to 4” in hindsight. The 6BT seems to want to breathe a bit heavier, I think the HDT, HDJ etc are good to go with 3” but I’ll probably eventually go to 4”.
 

Loki94

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So I guess you haven't driven it? Can't wait to hear the sound and power comparison.

Looks like they sell a straight end kit and a curved up kit for over the frame which is cool.
Here is how it sounds - To me - sounds great except driving through the neighborhood 😏?

 

Loki94

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As per above, I also have the flex joint.

In hindsight I would suggest two, one near the manifold or turbo, and a second one about 3-4’ back.

Loki, I have a stainless 3” system I put together, also no issues at the B-bands or welds cracking, I should have built the exhaust hanger brackets better and went to 4” in hindsight. The 6BT seems to want to breathe a bit heavier, I think the HDT, HDJ etc are good to go with 3” but I’ll probably eventually go to 4”.
 

mudgudgeon

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A muffler / resonator at the rear would probably take a lot of the crackle out of that and make it quieter in the neighbourhood without affecting power and the overall note
 

Loki94

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I agree more is better :cool: but that would 100% require a body lift. (several times I thought I bit off more than I could chew). However. I like the suggestion about the flex pipe. Honestly it didn't occur to me because I wasn't very confident about my ability to weld SS but I'm confident I could exchange the resonator for that flex pipe and the hanger is already perfectly positioned per #mudgudgeom's recommendation.

I will say that the CXRacing down pipe has a good set of flex pipes just after the O2 sensors. So there is some flex and the good thing they put them almost parallel with the motor mount so it may be tight but it is the best possible scenario.
 

Loki94

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A muffler / resonator at the rear would probably take a lot of the crackle out of that and make it quieter in the neighbourhood without affecting power and the overall note
Agreed! I took a risk with the Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator. Its doing exactly what they said it would do, and I'm not mad about it - Its kinda-like realizing now I cant hide my inner Redneck 😮...
 
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Agreed! I took a risk with the Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator. Its doing exactly what they said it would do, and I'm not mad about it - Its kinda-like realizing now I cant hide my inner Redneck 😮...
Sounds good. So is the muffler a chambered or straight thru? Did you try it with and without the resonator?

Exhaust can be tricky sometimes with the results. I've tried dozens of combos on various vehicles until I find what I like, and on my Yukon I have headers, high flow cats and at first I had a Magnaflow straight thru and to try to quiet it down I added an extra resonator but it was also straight thru which somehow made it louder. Long story short, ended up with one turbo style muffler and a smaller perforated Magnaflow and was the quieter better sounding.
 

Loki94

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Technically there is no muffler there is a resonator in the CXRacing down pipe and the Ultra Quiet Resonator I put in is straight through as well.

For now I like it just the way it is. However, that’s what makes doing it your self so great. If I want to change it out - $300 and a weekend and it’s like new. In fact, I deliberately put a vband after the CAT and added a few inches of pipe before the ultra quiet resonator for that purpose. The only restriction is the in and out need to be aligned.

like you say, it’s a process... now I know how to make a custom exhaust 👍
 

Loki94

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Thank you so much for posting this up. I am pretty sure these are the headers on my 97 and the exhaust needs some re-fitting on my rig.

My go too local toyota expert told me my headers block the EGR port and were causing my P0401. Would you agree with his statement after installing yours?
10-4 these headers have no provision for an EGR. However, a lot of people describe deleting that code and equipment either with BB's and dims to pass visual or all together to get some HP gins. I guess those gains would be minimal, but I think the real advantage is its another thing that cant go wrong on a 26 year old vehicle.
 

leonard_nemoy

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10-4 these headers have no provision for an EGR. However, a lot of people describe deleting that code and equipment either with BB's and dims to pass visual or all together to get some HP gins. I guess those gains would be minimal, but I think the real advantage is its another thing that cant go wrong on a 26 year old vehicle.


Thanks for clarifying, I guess I am too anal because constantly clearing the code bothers me. I will have to read up on the BB thing. I want to keep the EGR stuff incase I end up somewhere that requires emissions in the future....
 

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