CV axle replacement. (1 Viewer)

[linuxgod]

@kcjaz it's not a bad idea to replace the seals, and they are considered a non-reusable part, but if they're not leaking then it's not strictly necessary. I had forgotten about these and just ordered a passenger's side one.

You don't need a CV boot kit unless you intend to rebuild your old CV. Actually if anyone needs a CV boot kit let me know, I have one that's been only shelf ~2 years (long story) and I'm happy to send it for cheap since it seems unlikely I'll need it for years..

 

[kcjaz]

Partly, because one mounts into the side of the diff case and the other is on the extension housing.

it does make sense after I looked at the diagrams closer. I went full overkill mode and bought two CV axles to have on the shelf for future. Plan to carry one in the truck based on the level of adventure of the trip. I'm temped to someday, in my free time, pull a CV/axle in my shop just to teach/convince myself I understand how to do it. I think a trail replacement would be not that easy for the first time you ever do it.

 

[linuxgod]

it does make sense after I looked at the diagrams closer. I went full overkill mode and bought two CV axles to have on the shelf for future. Plan to carry one in the truck based on the level of adventure of the trip. I'm temped to someday, in my free time, pull a CV/axle in my shop just to teach/convince myself I understand how to do it. I think a trail replacement would be not that easy for the first time you ever do it.

The more I wheel the less likely I think you'd need to do a trail replacement. Just remove the driveshaft and lock the center diff and get off the trail in RWD. Or if you have a sawzall or angle grinder, cut the CV shaft and lock the center diff and drive it. Or just lock the center diff and drive it off and sort out any damage from the broken CV shaft flopping around.

 

[kcjaz]

The more I wheel the less likely I think you'd need to do a trail replacement. Just remove the driveshaft and lock the center diff and get off the trail in RWD. Or if you have a sawzall or angle grinder, cut the CV shaft and lock the center diff and drive it. Or just lock the center diff and drive it off and sort out any damage from the broken CV shaft flopping around.

Agree. I think what I'd really be doing by carrying a spare is just having the parts and saving the time a shop or parts store would need to get the parts if I blew a CV.

 

[laserturbo91]

If I order a CV as a spare, what else do I need?

Agree. I think what I'd really be doing by carrying a spare is just having the parts and saving the time a shop or parts store would need to get the parts if I blew a CV.

Driver and passenger seals are different. Axle does not come with an axle nut, castle nut cover thing, or a new carter key. To remove the axle nut, it’s a 39mm 12 point. Wouldn’t hurt to have a socket with you just in case the shop doesn’t have that random size. For anyone planning to change one, a medium size breaker bar to pop the axle out helps. Believe the lower ball joints are 24mm. The axle nut and lower ball joints are torqued to roughly 250 ft/lbs, so either have an appropriately sized torque wrench or just know to get it as tight as you can to get you moving. Also if you lose some gear oil, wouldn’t hurt to have a quart with you and a new crush washer for the fill. You can get sets of the differential crush washers cheap on Amazon.

Edit to add the responsible thing would be to have a way to catch any gear oil that comes out.

 

[kcjaz]

Driver and passenger seals are different. Axle does not come with an axle nut, castle nut cover thing, or a new carter key. To remove the axle nut, it’s a 39mm 12 point. Wouldn’t hurt to have a socket with you just in case the shop doesn’t have that random size. For anyone planning to change one, a medium size breaker bar to pop the axle out helps. Believe the lower ball joints are 24mm. The axle nut and lower ball joints are torqued to roughly 250 ft/lbs, so either have an appropriately sized torque wrench or just know to get it as tight as you can to get you moving. Also if you lose some gear oil, wouldn’t hurt to have a quart with you and a new crush washer for the fill. You can get sets of the differential crush washers cheap on Amazon.

Edit to add the responsible thing would be to have a way to catch any gear oil that comes out.

great input. I had a few of these things on my list. Thinking through the tools needed is as important as having the parts.

 

[linuxgod]

Driver and passenger seals are different. Axle does not come with an axle nut, castle nut cover thing, or a new carter key. To remove the axle nut, it’s a 39mm 12 point. Wouldn’t hurt to have a socket with you just in case the shop doesn’t have that random size. For anyone planning to change one, a medium size breaker bar to pop the axle out helps. Believe the lower ball joints are 24mm. The axle nut and lower ball joints are torqued to roughly 250 ft/lbs, so either have an appropriately sized torque wrench or just know to get it as tight as you can to get you moving. Also if you lose some gear oil, wouldn’t hurt to have a quart with you and a new crush washer for the fill. You can get sets of the differential crush washers cheap on Amazon.

Edit to add the responsible thing would be to have a way to catch any gear oil that comes out.

FYI the axle nut gets torqued to 148 ft lbs, then loosen it, then retorque to 251 ft lbs. The 3 step procedure is important.

I have the 12-point socket and a 250# torque wrench in my rig, so if you're wheeling with me and break something I at least have the tools to watch you attempt to fix it

 

[linuxgod]

great input. I had a few of these things on my list. Thinking through the tools needed is as important as having the parts.

You probably want to have a small (2x2?) block of wood and a BFH handy as well to pop the axle out of the hub. It also apparently can be quite a challenge to get the axle out of the front diff since there's not much of a lip to grab onto, and there's a special SST for that if you feel sparky. I think the SST is like $40 or something on Amazon, so not crazy.

 

[laserturbo91]

FYI the axle nut gets torqued to 148 ft lbs, then loosen it, then retorque to 251 ft lbs. The 3 step procedure is important.

I accidentally grabbed my 150ft/lbs for this trip so plan to correct that soon.

You probably want to have a small (2x2?) block of wood and a BFH handy as well to pop the axle out of the hub. It also apparently can be quite a challenge to get the axle out of the front diff…

I carry a few small pieces of 2x4” for that sort of stuff. Helps if I need a little height on a jack. The wood is nice too when seating the axle back into the diff.

Popping that axle out, a larger pry bar would be great but unless you have the truck on a post lift, there is only so much room. So that’s why I suggested a medium sized pry bar. A hammer may or may not have been involved as well.

 

[kcjaz]

Got my axles from Serra. Both dust seals messed up during shipping.

I’ll call Serra tomorrow and see what they will do. Note I also posted this in another CV thread thinking it was this thread. Sorry for double posts.

 

[RandyDaytona]

Strongly suggest you use OEM CVs.
Any Toyota dealer should be able to get those in short order….and several here can tell multiple stories about NON-OEM CV failures.

PS. I see in later posts that you’re starting with non-OEM and also ordering OEM. Wow. Only you know your timeline, but it sure would be nice to avoid all that…

I would have loved to avoid that - you’re right. But I had to spend two nights in a hotel that I had not planned on as it was. I was happy to get back on the road, OEM or non-OEM.

As it was, the non-OEM version got me through the rest of my trip through Wyoming and Montana and back to MN, so now I can replace it at my leisure - or at least until I head out again in October.

 

[Markuson]

I would have loved to avoid that - you’re right. But I had to spend two nights in a hotel that I had not planned on as it was. I was happy to get back on the road, OEM or non-OEM.

As it was, the non-OEM version got me through the rest of my trip through Wyoming and Montana and back to MN, so now I can replace it at my leisure - or at least until I head out again in October.

100% hear ya on that. As we all know…
-There’s what is “best” if time and circumstances allow…and then there are feasibility compromises we all have to make. Case in point…your situation.
Nicely done.