- Thread starter
- #21
Yeah, I did the same when I removed the TB and cleaned it...Truck kept starting up and dying. Figured out whjat it was, kicked myself in the ass and plugged it back in.
Crazy idle, stalling 'bruiser HELP (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter beachcruiser
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Okay... Still no soltuion yet... Does an MAF malfunctio throw a code? What about a temp sensor? Is there a way to find out if there is an air pocket/ airlock caused by the lack of coolant in the reservoir, or would it work itself out after the radiator had been replaced (destroyed)? I have a road trip to the Hershey car show this coming weekend to work at a roadster booth....
Have you checked the continuity of the wires from the MAF back to the ECU?
- Thread starter
- #24
Nope... Maybe a goofy question, but how would I do that? I have voltmeter, etc.
Assuming you have an FSM, disconnect the plug at the MAF and then at the ECU. (disconnect the positive battery cable first) The electrical diagram in the FSM will tell you which pin on the connector at the ECU corresponds to the pin on the MAF connector. You should have continuity between each wire that corresponds. You can do this to almost any component you wish by following the diagram. Very useful for finding broken wires in the harness and for narrowing down component failures. It looks very confusing at first but is well worth the effort.
- Thread starter
- #26
Ouch... No FSM, and would the wiring continuity check let me know if the MAF is the issue, or would it only isolate the wiring as the problem? Is there a way I can check to see if the MAF is shot? The revving from 1200-2200 is not interspersed with constant idling around 2000 rpm... Not good. A voice in my head is telling me "Grasshopper, your motor kung fu no good" as well as "Your high rpms are unstoppable." At this point, I am at my wits end and am considering the dreaded trip to the service center ( 75 mis. away)... Ouch. Ideas? Anyone?
The continuity check would only isolate a broken wire or bad connection.
Have you clenaed up all the grounds in and around the intake manifold and fuse/relay box?
Last but not least, is there another member near you that you could swap parts with to see if the MAF is the culprit.
Have you clenaed up all the grounds in and around the intake manifold and fuse/relay box?
Last but not least, is there another member near you that you could swap parts with to see if the MAF is the culprit.
- Thread starter
- #28
Good idea about the grounds, I will check those this PM... An interesting side note: I have noticed that occasionally when I have opened the engine bay that there is a brief crackling/ buzzing sound coming from area around or in the box housing the EFI relay, etc. I can best describe it as a "static" sound... However it never lasts long enough for me to isolate it... I do live at the beach, and the possibility of salt/ corrosion on a relay or ground is not out of the question.... Hmmm
beachcruiser said:
re-read post #17
- Thread starter
- #30
Well, a couple of things... Went to the Hershey car show... Had to rent a truck b/c the 'bruiser only starts up when run for a period of time, or if I hold the pedal down to keep the startup idle high. I tried to get to the fuel pump relay (located between fuel pump and DS front fender) and could not get it freed up enough to check contacts... Disconnected the two looms on top of it, but could not get it unclipped.. Any suggestions?
No help here as I've got a 96 and the relay is located in the fender just behind the fuse box. You have a hard time seeing it but you just unclip the connector and take out 1 screw that holds the relay to the fender.
