Core Support Replacement?

[jynx]

Anyone replaced the Core/ radiator support on your pickup/4runner? Mine is in pretty rough shape. It is crooked enough that I can't replace grill or headlight buckets, radiator is in with a spacer to keep it from being in a bind, etc. So since I am working up to dropping in a fresh motor soon, I was thinking of going ahead and doing this at the same time.

I have a OE core support that I cut out of a salvage yard truck. Front was straight and I got it plus a little bit of the inner fenders, so I know I need to drill out the spot welds and have some other prep to get it ready to go in, but how hard is it to actually make the change out. I have read of a few folks drilling things and making the core support a bolt in unit instead of rewelding it and I like this idea and will probably go that route.

I know removing the core support will make getting the old engine much easier to get out and then I could put the new one in after the motor is in.

Anybody got any good pictures or know where to find a write-up of the process?

Thanks in advance.

Matthew

 

[Viking Panels]

Take a propane torch and a wire brush to both core supports. Burn the paint, then brush. That will show you every spot weld.

Take a drill with a 1/8" bit, and drill a hole in the center of every spot weld you need to break. Then, follow up with a larger bit until the weld is gone. Since you've already burned off any paint and seam-sealer, the panels will just about fall apart.

You can use a hammer and old screwdriver if you don't have an air chisel, to finish the job. I doubt you will need either.

Try to keep the new core-support as one big piece. That will help keep everything aligned like factory.

You can PM me if you have questions.

Roy

 

[toyminator]

There are about 40 spot welds to drill out. Get a spot weld drill bit from an auto body supply source. I ordered one from Eastwood.

 

[jynx]

Thanks for the tips. I will practice on the new one first. I got it as a single piece out of the donor, unbolted it and then cut the inner fenders so I will have to remove the inner fender remnants anyway. I will definitely keep it in one piece.

If I am planning on bolting it back together is there a good size bolt you'd recommend. Toyminator I know when you did your second one you made it bolt on. Is the spot weld bit worth the $ vs a drill bit? Just curious since I am looking at 80 or so of these little buggers to drill out.

Also, did you bolt every hole back up, so 40 total bolts on it?

 

[Viking Panels]

Ten 1/4 x 20 bolts on each side should be plenty. I used regular drill bits on mine. That's your call.

 

[toyminator]

Yeah 8 or 10 on each side is fine. I actually welded the nuts to the sheetmetal, then ran the bolts in. They don't need to be very big.

I used the spot weld drill bit from the front side of the support I took off and the back side of the donor so there were no holes in the pieces I needed. Then drilled holes the exact size of my bolts and was able to put them exactly where I wanted. A regular drill but will get the just done just as quick but the right spot weld bit makes it look cleaner.

 

[jynx]

What size drill bit do I need to get? 1/4"? I found a 3/8" double sided bit, but that may be too big if I only need 1/4" bolts. I will probably use metric bolts.

 

[KLF]

I also vote for getting the special spot-weld cutter bit. They make a much cleaner round hole, whereas a twist drill will tend to distort the "good" metal you're trying to save. It will also leave a nice "dimple" in the metal underneath for making your pilot hole. Use even pressure, good cutting fluid, not too fast with the drill. I bought a solid carbide one, I think I found it at Jegs, and it did a great job. The one Eastwood sells is also really good, but I think it's actually the same thing.

http://www.eastwood.com/spotweld-drill-3-8-pro.html