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Very likely due to the several studs around the bottom of the housing being beaten into obliteration on that trip. Or the pinion bearing taking a beating. It survived Mardi Krawl though. I think I chipped a small tooth sometime around then, and it became a larger issue in the last month when that tooth eventually got chewed up and spat out by the rest of the ring gear.

Here's the tooth that stuck to the magnet in the drain plug.
RearDiff (104).webp


Here's the rest of the teeth resting on the bottom of the housing.
RearDiff (109).webp


Here's the ring gear.
RearDiff (112).webp


RearDiff (113).webp
 
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But this was not the replacement diff that was delivered to me at Katemcy by Georg (that's another story). I had to make my original diff that got us to TX in the first place get us home. It lasted this much longer.
 
The funny thing is that Just Differentials has an ATL warehouse not far from ACC. They just don't have a shop to do turnkey builds. Maybe one day they will. I will rep HARD then.
 
There's still a lot I haven't absorbed. I had James and Dugan both over my shoulder and double checking the "feel" of my work.
 
Diffs are one of those things that are scary as hell to fool with the first time, but once you peek behind the curtain and have a chat with the wizard, It starts to make sense. Awesome work Rick! And can I get some info on that bench doohickie, I need one of those. Is it rated for a 9.5 drop out?
 
Thank you sir, and the weight is more what I was wondering about. :confused:
 
It's funny but the old guy that I sometimes get to set up my gears still uses a wooden match stick to judge the depth of engagement. If it doesn't distort the match stick it isn't deep enough, if it crushes it it's too deep, if it leaves a mark its just right. :) never had one fail yet...
 
Sounds about right. Depth of engagement is what you look for in the grease paint, first and foremost. Centered on the tooth is 2nd.
 
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