I’m trying to remove a rear 22 gal tank for repair. I believe it is an early Confer tank that uses three through bolts for mounting rather than any sort of mounting bracket. The tank was installed by a PO in my 1976 FJ40. The through bolts appear to be welded to the rear floor. I’m trying to get as much information as I possibly can about this style tank. In particular, is there anyway to remove the tank without the removal of the apparently welded bolts ? I have made an attempt to drop the tank, but the filler neck portion that slips over the frame is about 1/2 inch too long and the tank doesn’t seem to have enough movement to allow it to drop completely. Any information regarding installation/removal or even history of this style tank would be appreciated.
Confer aux tank with through bolts ?
- Thread starter Howl
- Start date
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No clue. Kroil is the best penetrating oil. Apply daily for a week at the bolt head after scraping. If bolts are welded you will likely need to cut the welds with like a Dremel tool. Or use like a hole saw with an outside guide instead of the central pilot drill bit. You should support the tank when drilling. Plan to weld in new sheet metal to fill the holes.
Maybe one of those cheap inspection camera that plugs into a phone so you can look at the space between the floor and tank.
Clean the bottom of the tank in the area below the bolt holes to see if the bolts come threw. Yes apply kroil here too.
Maybe one of those cheap inspection camera that plugs into a phone so you can look at the space between the floor and tank.
Clean the bottom of the tank in the area below the bolt holes to see if the bolts come threw. Yes apply kroil here too.
The thru-bolted tank should have dome head carriage bolts and fender washers in the bed, so that you should be able to grind the heads off the bolts without damaging your floorboards.
The tank was sold by MAF back in the day.
The tank was sold by MAF back in the day.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks Mark…. I thought that might have been the answer, but apparently the PO ground off at least one bolt and welded it in place. I was hoping there was a way to remove the tank without cutting the bolts free (the other two are currently covered with bed liner
)… looks like I’ll be cutting them free and looking for some replacements (threaded rod with welded heads).
The carriage bolts they used weren’t long enough either. They welded 1/2” all thread to the bottom of the bolt to make extensions.
Sorry, this is all I have to offer. Good advice given above. The included price sheet shows effective March 1980.
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks much for the History! I had forgotten that Man-A-Fre had an Idaho lineage.
Have a tank like the Man-A-Fre catalog. Not sure that is a ConFer tank. Mine is not a ConFer.
Was installed in my 73 FST when I bought it in 1994.
It has long bolt but not cartridge bolts. Obviously custom made with a rectangle piece welded on the end.
Curious what on the other end of the botls? Mine just had nuts with washers.
It has a thick piece of metal just bolted on the bottom with no spacers.
Was installed in my 73 FST when I bought it in 1994.
It has long bolt but not cartridge bolts. Obviously custom made with a rectangle piece welded on the end.
Curious what on the other end of the botls? Mine just had nuts with washers.
It has a thick piece of metal just bolted on the bottom with no spacers.
- Thread starter
- #9
I'm trying to wrap up this project and this thread. Here are a few before and after pix of this little challenge. The bolts were threaded rod with washers welded to one end, I welded up a few new ones. Notice the three mounting bolt pattern as opposed to the four bolt pattern in the tank posted by "Living in the Past". I pulled the tank and cleaned it inside and out, metal prepped and lined it with POR15 Fuel Tank Sealer. I added a fuel sender and a separate gauge. As long as the tank was out and I had plenty of room in the back and I was able to degrease, the undercarriage, use a needle scaler and wire brush on any frame rust and repainted the underside of the cruiser as well as the tank. I'm also able to access and repair the rear harness where a PO butchered the wiring for a trailer plug Coolerman had all the correct wire, (size and coloring) and plugs, as well as guidance on correct wire gauging and trailer adapters 
.
One interesting note, the input to the tank is 2", not the usual 2-1/8" (Which is a real PIA to find) The aux fuel fill port on the cruiser body WAS 2-1/8". The old fuel fill line was 2-1/8" radiator hose that was now petrified and leaked fumes from the tank connection. I modified the fill port on the cruiser body to 2" and am using traditional 2" fuel rated filler hose for a vapor free connection. If anyone is looking for 2-1/8 inch ID filler hose, I have two feet of fuel rated Novaflex 842 (NEW)... you pay shipping and it's yours
.
I should have the wiring completed and the tank reinstalled sometime next week! Thanks again to all the responded.
. One interesting note, the input to the tank is 2", not the usual 2-1/8" (Which is a real PIA to find) The aux fuel fill port on the cruiser body WAS 2-1/8". The old fuel fill line was 2-1/8" radiator hose that was now petrified and leaked fumes from the tank connection. I modified the fill port on the cruiser body to 2" and am using traditional 2" fuel rated filler hose for a vapor free connection. If anyone is looking for 2-1/8 inch ID filler hose, I have two feet of fuel rated Novaflex 842 (NEW)... you pay shipping and it's yours
.I should have the wiring completed and the tank reinstalled sometime next week! Thanks again to all the responded.