Clutch is shot....then. I wouldn't bother trying to replace the clutch alone...as it approaches the cost of a new compressor.
Better to just replace the compressor which will come complete with the clutch.
Part: Denso #471-1166
Compressor dead? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter chuckd83
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Clutch is shot....then. I wouldn't bother trying to replace the clutch alone...as it approaches the cost of a new compressor.
Better to just replace the compressor which will come complete with the clutch.
Part: Denso #471-1166
- Thread starter
- #22
Thanks, I'll order one. How did you pick the part number? Denso's website and all other auto part websites list that as not compatible with my LC.
Also, can you explain what that inner shaft is (#2) and why the clutch may spin, but not that?
#'s 1 & 2 should be attached to each other, so if one is spinning and the other isn't the clutch has come apart.
You can get a replacement clutch, but it might be better to replace the compressor assembly (and the drier).
Center hub of your clutch has detached. Look on the back of your compressor (should be a tag there) and see if your compressor is a 10PA17C. IF it is...then another 10PA17C model (regardless the manufacturer) should fit it. What does the manifold on top of the compressor look like? I ask because you will probably need to reuse it and it needs to be 100% compatible with the new compressor.
- Thread starter
- #25
Thanks. I'll check this evening. Best to replace the two gaskets for the A/C lines? Do I have the correct part numbers below:
90099-14120
90099-14121
Yes, you'll always want to replace any O-rings for any fittings that are disconnected. There is one on the drier as well, so you'll be replacing 3 total. Also, there is a seal under the service port manifold.
Easiest thing to do is just pick up an O-ring kit, similar to below.
IF the schader valves are old in your service ports, its a good time to replace them.
Easiest thing to do is just pick up an O-ring kit, similar to below.
IF the schader valves are old in your service ports, its a good time to replace them.
- Thread starter
- #27
You've got a 10PA compressor and as noted by the casting on the side (17), it should be a 10PA17C. The 17 denotes the displacement and it is a 10 cylinder compressor.
Does your vehicle still have the Refrigerant sticker under the hood on the radiator support? I am curious as to whether your vehicle was born a R134a or was converted later?
Your compressor manifold (top plate) looks correct for a factory R134a.
Does your vehicle still have the Refrigerant sticker under the hood on the radiator support? I am curious as to whether your vehicle was born a R134a or was converted later?
Your compressor manifold (top plate) looks correct for a factory R134a.
- Thread starter
- #29
Yes, the tag on the radiator says R134a. I guess one the first to have the new freon. Original compressor? The part number you gave is still good? Arrives on Tuesday.
Yep, good to go.
- Thread starter
- #31
Thanks so much for your help.
Da Nada.
