Cleaning old Diff gears

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The Crowbar

The Crowbar

Joined
May 31, 2018
Threads
11
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90
Location
Yokosuka, Japan
So I just has 4.88's installed more info at "What have you done this week".

My question is that I have the old gears and parts and want to store them away? Whats the best chemical to clean them up so they don't smell horrible and I can keep them in the garage for long term?
 
You should be able to buy parts cleaner and degreaser by the gallon at a good friendly local auto parts store.

I think they probably need some sort of storage stuff like cosmoline to prevent corrosion once they are cleaned. I'venever done that though, so can't say with authority. New R&P sets I've used have had a sticky waxy kind of covering over the bare metal.
 
In jest of course, double bagged and sealed with your seal-a-meal machine as is.
 
I have a couple diffs in my garage from car projects 15 years back. Looked them over last year. Still looking good and fresh.

What did I do? Nothing. Left them coated in the gear oil they came out of. Bagged in a trashbag, in a cardboard box, and stored in the garage.

I would not clean them or de-grease in any manner. The gear oil on it is protective so they don't rust and corrode. If you do clean, you'll want to put some coating back on anywys.

Awesome to hear you've re-geared with harrop! Tell us more as you get some time. Is this on 33s or larger?

I'm starting some of the same journey soon.
 
My practice is the leave the gear oil intact, but wrap the R&P together with some of that stretchy shrink wrap stuff, lots of layers. Put a note under the last layer so you'll know where they came from, ratio, miles, date. That way in 10 years when you come across them in the basement you'll know what you're tossing into the scrap metal bin.

Smaller bits go in a durable Ziplok bag or container, maybe squirt a few shots of WD-40 or (my favorite) Fogging Oil in on them before sealing.
 
@KLF That's a good idea. I do have a food saver and may do that with the parts.

I currently am running 32" Ridge Grapplers, but will be going up the next time I get new tires. I hadnt installed my Kings yet and didn't have the clearance.
 
You might be interested to know the kings won't buy any more clearance on an IFS rig. It may help prevent rubbing at ride height, but you'll want to make sure the tire clears when stuffed and articulating off-road anyways. IFS suspension will travel through the same travel at full extension and compression, lifted or not, which is why I say it won't really buy more clearance.

How big of a tire are you planning for?
 
I'm thinking 33's next, nothing to big I run a pretty stealthy mall crawler.
 
TeCKis300 said:
You might be interested to know the kings won't buy any more clearance on an IFS rig. It may help prevent rubbing at ride height, but you'll want to make sure the tire clears when stuffed and articulating off-road anyways. IFS suspension will travel through the same travel at full extension and compression, lifted or not, which is why I say it won't really buy more clearance.
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I don't get this. If your suspension raises the body up higher relative to the control arm, aren't you gaining clearance? I definitely have more room from the ground to the skid plates after adding a lift. Also, with stiffer springs it is harder to get to full compression (At least I believe that to be true). Or am I just misunderstanding?
 
CharlieS said:
I don't get this. If your suspension raises the body up higher relative to the control arm, aren't you gaining clearance? I definitely have more room from the ground to the skid plates after adding a lift. Also, with stiffer springs it is harder to get to full compression (At least I believe that to be true). Or am I just misunderstanding?
Click to expand...

You're not wrong on either point and I agree with what you're stating.

For off-road though, we're using our suspension. Potentially completely all the way to the bump stop. The position where the suspension bottoms out and stops at the bump stop does not change with a lift on an IFS suspension. Therefore it's important that the tire still clears lift or not. Otherwise we'd be potentially damaging fender/fender liners/and other body parts when really flexed off-road.

Using firmer springs to the degree that it limits off travel is an odd thing. If the goal is off-road performance, slinky and flexy is the name of the game. Yes, we might need more spring rate for heavier builds, but it shouldn't get to the degree that it would limit full compression when crossed up, as that would reduce RTI performance for articulation and traction. Load bearing suspensions like what's in HD trucks aren't exactly known for off-road performance.

The notion of lift for clearance comes from the solid front axle days. In most of those style of lifts (but not all), the suspension limits actually do change. With more droop travel and limited up travel.
 
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