Builds Chicago builds a 40

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A 4 link coil rear suspension would kick ass. I have some ideas on how to do it with out mortgaging the homestead. Most of the cost of that type of suspension is in fabrication, if a guy has fab skilz .........

MAN...I wish I knew someone like that!!!!!!!
 
I don't know. If you run your FJ62 springs, you add about 4 inches and it's extremely easy. More than that, you run out of real estate fast, unless you extend the rear of the frame.

I saw a coil spring 40 with the axle way back, that might be an option.


Here's a thought--chop the 62-take off the entire rear, the roof, build a cool cage and make a Ute out of it. Then you have the wheelbase for this drive train and the decreased weight/mass you want. You could even put the 40 body on it.

I had thought about this issue for a better part of this morning driving into work...
IF the drive train is just too long and I absolutely can not fit it in by flipping springs and and such, I will extend the rear of the frame and stretch the tub accordingly. I shouldnt be TOO much extra that Ill need.
BTW, before I went and picked up the 40...I pitched the chop you were proposing to the wife...NO LIKEY!!!!!
I was set on it actually, but she just did NOT DIG me chopping the blotch rig like that. She said that it looked "white trash".

Whaddya do?
If the wifes not happy....

K
 
On that topic, what springs are the best for optimizing the length?

Keith

links..

You want the rear specs from my 40? It sits low and is VERY stable.

Also, dump the stock wiring. ezwiring.com

I'll do whatever I can to help amigo.
 
K.I.S.S

Ill try what I have.
I did some measurements last night...without the 203 to split case adapter, the length of the vortec (from the tip of the fan to the aft face of the block), 4L60E, 700R adapter, 6 to 4 bolt adapter and the split case, the total length is 48 in right now.

Pretty damn long, but...I want to measure against the drive train that is in 40 NOW and see where she falls.

Ill do that tomorrow noc.

K

I'll measure my drivetrain. SM420 and dual mini tcases cannot be that much longer.
 
Use ladders. No really, you can lay everything out and easily remove and strip the old tape off. Be she to check the white wire with the black strip for "Hot Spots". It is the ground.

Use 3M Super 88 or Super 35 electrical tape when putting it back together.

Or do what Mace recommended and replace the harness.

Right now ive been pulling the factory harness, which I believe would make for some boring photos. Every little bit is like christmas though...I never know what Im gonna get.
There are a few rogue plugs that are homeless...not sure what they are or where they go. Ive been labeling everything that I D/C. Ill pull the whole thing out, and most likely try and trace each wire out to see where it goes and what it does and can hopefully eliminate much of it. Im not too sure what Ill need of the old harness. Im assuming the inst. gauge wires, lights, blinkers and such. Im considering the Summit fuse block that d'animal recommended to sort of re build the factory harness, however, Ill need to research that further.

If anyone has any info on this, please post up. This is the crap that worries me the most.

Thanks,

Chicago

The Summit # I posted was for the waterproof connector kit. It has 1 plug, 2 plug, 3 plug and 4 plug connectors and all of the hardware.
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Thanks gents!
A ladder....that is actually a great idea d'animal. I got the harness completely pulled last night. Labeled everything that was connected.
Mace, Ill check out that ezwiring.com. Rusty TLC said that if he had the time hed redo the factory harness too. 30+ years of exposure and vibration.
After getting it all out, it doesnt LOOK to be all that intimidating. Seems that it'd just be more time consuming than anything.
I still have yet to decide on the Vortec harness and wether or not I want to do it myself, or get one re worked, or gram one from howell. Since Im not a skilled electritian...Im leery about doing it myself, but I do have a friend close by who is an electrical engineer that may be able to help me with the task....
BTW, I measured the stock 40 gear that is in the rig, last noc...it is actually LONGER (53 in) than the 48 in of the vortec set up? Im only missing the 203 to 1 sp adapter to add to that measurement. Ill have to double check that, but...

Here are some pics of whats been done.
I appreciate the help anywhere I can get it. Ive never done this extensive of a job before, so Im a bit nervous to say the least, but Im having a blast already.


wiring harness
front clip off
wiring harness out
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Whatcha doing with the 4 speed tranny and tcase? btw?? :D
 
Whatcha doing with the 4 speed tranny and tcase? btw?? :D

Its actually going BACK to the guy that I got it from.
I told him that I didnt need it, he mentioned that he wouldnt mind keeping it, so I haggled down the price a bit with the condition that I give it back to him.
He wanted it for a spare for the neglected project 40 in his garage...If you wanted, I could see if he would want to give it up. Honestly, I think he'd rather have had the cash. I think the difference was 150 bucks.

Are you interested?

K
 
No work today....
I actually HAD to work on my dautghters HEEP grand cherokee Loraedo and replace the radiator...
What a FRIGGIN PITA!
Its not so bad except for the damn fan shroud. There is NO easy way to get that Fing thing outta there. Ive been in and out of it so many times with various coolant leaks, that I actually cut the botton of the shroud out to make it a bit easier. Well, this time around it got its revenge and snapped in half.
For the time being, I red necked it together...drilled a couple of holes in it, and ZIP TIED that BEOTCH together.:hillbilly:
It was acutally pretty solid. Ill have to look around for another though.

Chicago
 
In the industry we use a sheet of plywood to build big wiring harnesses.
I'd pin the old harness up on a sheet of OSB like a frog in HS biology lab.
If you want to re-work the old one it will be a lot easier, if you want to build a new one you can use the old one as a guide to get lengths right etc. with out doing a point to point, if you us an after market harness you can match stuff up and make whatever mods are needed easier than with it in the rig.

I just picked up a piece of OSB for $7 and change at Home Depot today.
 
Possibly, My brother 72 needs an updated tranny/tcase
 
In the industry we use a sheet of plywood to build big wiring harnesses.
I'd pin the old harness up on a sheet of OSB like a frog in HS biology lab.
If you want to re-work the old one it will be a lot easier, if you want to build a new one you can use the old one as a guide to get lengths right etc. with out doing a point to point, if you us an after market harness you can match stuff up and make whatever mods are needed easier than with it in the rig.

I just picked up a piece of OSB for $7 and change at Home Depot today.

That is one option I was considering, was un winding the loom, and cutting and pasting (essentially) the stuff I need. Id have the opportunity to check the wires, and then customize it for what I need and do not. Id have to wait (I think) till I get further along with the chevy stuff in place to be able to match the plugs. Lots of it will be on the chevy harness, to chevy stuff (as best I can tell), but its gettnig the toy to chevy connections Im concerned with. That, and I dont know what the hell Im doing.:clap:
I liked HS bio...College was better though. Pig eyes, cats, cadavers. Good stuff.
 
Or, $155 for a brand new harness....

Stock 30 year old wiring tends to leave a bit to be desired IMHO..


;)


It depends on how much time you have tho.. If you have a lot of time. Reworking the factor harness may be the best option.

The EZ wiring for turn signals is complicated..
 
How complicated could the turn signal stuff be? Other than the European vs American turn brake convention difference. They make a box that converts the signals to the 'Merican standard.
 
How complicated could the turn signal stuff be? Other than the European vs American turn brake convention difference. They make a box that converts the signals to the 'Merican standard.

Complicated is not the right term. It is a fairly easy fix, but if you are not expecting it, can be a bit confusing.
 
Link to EZwire mace posted.

Wiring Harness

These are the hanresses.

Which did you use?
So I know...you take the ez harness (or factory harness), run it out to its desired locations, and match, cut and splice the plugs as needed and voila?
Im guessing that the ez wire harness would not match the crusier plug ends and hence the question.
Just trying to get a handle on the process, as Ive never done this before.
 
I used the 20 circuit. Pretty damn silly with my 40 I wish I had done the 12 circuit.
 
Link to EZwire mace posted.

Wiring Harness

These are the hanresses.

Which did you use?
So I know...you take the ez harness (or factory harness), run it out to its desired locations, and match, cut and splice the plugs as needed and voila?
Im guessing that the ez wire harness would not match the crusier plug ends and hence the question.
Just trying to get a handle on the process, as Ive never done this before.

I'd do this:

Wiring Kits

502C12

A little cheaper than EZ, and way cheaper than Painless, Centech, Route.

It has a covered fuse block. I've seen the kit in person, it's pretty complete for a 40 application. These guys, Enos, and the other street rod vendors have all the stuff for building a custom vehicle--think about it.
 
I'd do this:

Wiring Kits

502C12

A little cheaper than EZ, and way cheaper than Painless, Centech, Route.

It has a covered fuse block. I've seen the kit in person, it's pretty complete for a 40 application. These guys, Enos, and the other street rod vendors have all the stuff for building a custom vehicle--think about it.

Good one!
So, if I didnt NEED something, I didnt have to use it, would I? Or, I could potentially use it for something else?

K
 

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