Builds Chicago builds a 40

[EWheeler]

I wouldn't waste your money on the CCOT sill. 2x4 box makes an easy rear sill. Not stock looking, but your rig will be far from stock. Used some generic Energy Suspension body mount bushings and mounted them to some 2x2 angle welded to my rear crossmember. Sides are 2x2x1/4 angle.

 

[chicago]

So what you are saying is that a bad day in the garage is better than a good day at work?

So any chance MM will take the stuff you bought back? Or will it just wind up in the stock pile?

YEUP...Basically. All in all, Im always learingin even when Im failing MISERABLY. Not that I cant do it...its just not worth the hassle doing my routine STARING at it for a MONTH, figuring it out, then doing the work.
They wont take it back Im reasonably certain. It will end up on YOUR rig, or mine or someone elses in various forms...

K

 

[chicago]

I wouldn't waste your money on the CCOT sill. 2x4 box makes an easy rear sill. Not stock looking, but your rig will be far from stock. Used some generic Energy Suspension body mount bushings and mounted them to some 2x2 angle welded to my rear crossmember. Sides are 2x2x1/4 angle.

I hear ya!
However, it is worth the money for me to just get the part from CCOT and keep moving at this point. It will take 3-4 weeks, and in that time I can get the frame cleaned, the front of the tub finished and possibly the motor set and part of the wiring figured.
I picked up some 2x2 for the rear sill...Ill be doing through bolts like you did though.
Thanks for the pics e wheeler!

 

[chicago]

So to update...
The price on CCOT was NOT for the whole wheel well assy.
The 134 was for the TOP plate, the bottom plate as 120 something and the rear pillar was another 12 bucks or so. So...back to the drawing board. Not gonna spend that much!
I did have a pretty good day today. Got the rear sill replaced with some 2x2 1/8 in wall, and tied in to the DS of the tub with some 1x2. Not too shabby. I measured the reveal from the PS to the DS on the bottom of the sill and Im OFF by about 1/8 of an inch. I figure that I can put a little extra torque on the DS bolt and level it when the time comes.
Ill actaully post some pics tomorrow. Going to a concert this eve and the wife is informing me how much time I have to get DOLLED up!

 

[rusty_tlc]

So to update...
The price on CCOT was NOT for the whole wheel well assy.
The 134 was for the TOP plate, the bottom plate as 120 something and the rear pillar was another 12 bucks or so. So...back to the drawing board. Not gonna spend that much!
I did have a pretty good day today. Got the rear sill replaced with some 2x2 1/8 in wall, and tied in to the DS of the tub with some 1x2. Not too shabby. I measured the reveal from the PS to the DS on the bottom of the sill and Im OFF by about 1/8 of an inch. I figure that I can put a little extra torque on the DS bolt and level it when the time comes.
Ill actaully post some pics tomorrow. Going to a concert this eve and the wife is informing me how much time I have to get DOLLED up!

Have you checked the secret Cruise Graveyard out in Fallabama?
There might be some wheel wells out there. I know there is at least one Cruiser missing some door hinges.

 

[chicago]

Have you checked the secret Cruise Graveyard out in Fallabama?
There might be some wheel wells out there. I know there is at least one Cruiser missing some door hinges.

No...
His inventory is a little slim these days.
Besides...Once I got the rear tail gate pillar SET, I figured a SURE FIRE way to re build the fender well, make it STURDY and do it EASILY!
Im planning on framing it (so to speak). Ill be using some 1 in angle iron and 1/2 in square tube to make the frame. Once that is done, Ill just cut the panel shapes out and spot weld em on the new frame. Ill be doing the Iron Pig cage, and Ill be tying that into the frame aventually, so...gotta keep that in mind too.
Ill be doing a liner in the tub floor anyway, so Ill use some seam sealant on the seams and away we go!

Should be EASY!

 

[chicago]

BTW...I think the motor might be sold. There are now TWO people that want it. One wants to buy, the other wants to trade a front 60 series axel...
So that is good news too!
Either way it goes, Ill probably BUY the axel. I need it, soooo.

Coming together!

Should be up and running by Dec.!

Yeah RIGHT!

 

[chicago]

Im going to attempt to up load some pics...
Tub getting pulled...using some ingenuity for one man op
Fender top (swiss cheese)
new fender framing.

K

 

[rusty_tlc]

Very nice!
How are you going to attach the sheet metal?

 

[chicago]

Very nice!
How are you going to attach the sheet metal?

Plug welds....
Just like Toyota did it! I MAY have to add some more, but well see. Then Ill seam seal the piss out of it.

BTW, using the plasma to make holes....AWESOME!
Same can be said about the rivets. Blow a hole through the center and pop em off....NICE AND EASY!

Love that thing!

 

[chicago]

Here's a few more!

New sill
New pillar
Fender framing mock up

K

 

[EWheeler]

Awesome work there Chicago. Any thought go into raising the fender wells higher than the stock height? I am on 37's and I am just an RCH away from getting into my quarter panel sheet metal at full stuff (no bumpstops yet). If I ever go, check that, when I go to larger tires I will most defintely rub. When I re-do my floor and inner fender wells, I am going to raise them up a couple inches to gain a bit more clearance and modify my comp cut accordingly.

 

[EWheeler]

Example

Stolen from Gunmetalcruz on Pirate:

 

[rusty_tlc]

Ummm PBR.

 

[chicago]

Ummm PBR.

OH YEAH!
My latest beer craze! Cant get enough of the stuff. I just love it!

 

[chicago]

Awesome work there Chicago. Any thought go into raising the fender wells higher than the stock height? I am on 37's and I am just an RCH away from getting into my quarter panel sheet metal at full stuff (no bumpstops yet). If I ever go, check that, when I go to larger tires I will most defintely rub. When I re-do my floor and inner fender wells, I am going to raise them up a couple inches to gain a bit more clearance and modify my comp cut accordingly.

Ill definately be adjusting the bump stops, but Id really rather have the additional storage space that Im DESPERATELY going to need. That is going to be a hard transition from the 62 wagon to the 40 for camp gear etc.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Ill definately be adjusting the bump stops, but Id really rather have the additional storage space that Im DESPERATELY going to need. That is going to be a hard transition from the 62 wagon to the 40 for camp gear etc.

In addition to less space you'll have more gear. Since you can't sleep in an FJ40 like you did in the 62 you'll need a tent. Unless you want to be a blood donor when the Skeeters get thick.

Ask Andy about his Tent cot.

 

[chappysfj40]

way cool,

 

[chicago]

In addition to less space you'll have more gear. Since you can't sleep in an FJ40 like you did in the 62 you'll need a tent. Unless you want to be a blood donor when the Skeeters get thick.

Ask Andy about his Tent cot.

YEUP!!!!
Ill be forgoing some VERY NICE sleepin accomidations FOR SURE!
Toyota 4 wheel owners mag showed Mark (from Marks off road) converted his passenger seat into a bed. So he can sleep with his head at the tail gate, and his feet in the front of the cab. Looked pretty slick. Ive been keeing that in mind for down the road.
Ill definately be dong a roof rack of sorts like you did for the light gear. Im gonna try and do some creative cargo storage type thing too.
All in due time. I have the rest of my life to get this thing dialed.

 

[Mace]

Stolen from Gunmetalcruz on Pirate:

Just do this..

It will be sooo much easier to keep it low..