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- #21
more pics
checking radiator and installing heater valve (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter landcruiser3DP
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Pictures look good (other than those Breeze clamps that everyone seems to like). Did you do the PHH?
Put the heater slider on full heat so you have full flow through the heater core when you start the truck to make sure it is full of coolant.
The extra rubber on the 90 degree hose from the PHH? Not sure either. Someone smarter than me might chime in. Several hoses have it.
Not sure what you mean by clamping to the fuel rail.
You should keep adding water/coolant to the radiator until it is full and stays full, unless it is just draining on the ground somewhere, which is doubtful. The heater core is essentially another radiator but the heat pulled off the heater core is used to heat the cabin.
If you don’t see any leaks I would start it up and let it idle until it comes up to temperature, about 180 – 190 on the ultragauge. Keep looking for leaks. Check the carpet below the dash because if the heater core is leaking it will be inside the truck.
If all is good, drive it and watch the temperature. It really shouldn’t get over 200 if everything is working. Mine runs pretty consistently at 190. I’d also run with the heater fan on full to make sure you are getting cabin heat. If it is getting over temp you’ll want to get it home before it over heats.
Put the heater slider on full heat so you have full flow through the heater core when you start the truck to make sure it is full of coolant.
The extra rubber on the 90 degree hose from the PHH? Not sure either. Someone smarter than me might chime in. Several hoses have it.
Not sure what you mean by clamping to the fuel rail.
You should keep adding water/coolant to the radiator until it is full and stays full, unless it is just draining on the ground somewhere, which is doubtful. The heater core is essentially another radiator but the heat pulled off the heater core is used to heat the cabin.
If you don’t see any leaks I would start it up and let it idle until it comes up to temperature, about 180 – 190 on the ultragauge. Keep looking for leaks. Check the carpet below the dash because if the heater core is leaking it will be inside the truck.
If all is good, drive it and watch the temperature. It really shouldn’t get over 200 if everything is working. Mine runs pretty consistently at 190. I’d also run with the heater fan on full to make sure you are getting cabin heat. If it is getting over temp you’ll want to get it home before it over heats.
- Thread starter
- #23
oh boi.
she’s leaking pretty good after topping it off with distilled water. a little over my head at this point. probably should have taken it to my toyota mechanic instead of the supposed LC experts i took it to because land cruiser specialists were too booked to get me in...?
or maybe listened to some on the forum and taken a pass on this one?
honestly don’t know at this point...
she’s leaking pretty good after topping it off with distilled water. a little over my head at this point. probably should have taken it to my toyota mechanic instead of the supposed LC experts i took it to because land cruiser specialists were too booked to get me in...?
or maybe listened to some on the forum and taken a pass on this one?
honestly don’t know at this point...
- Thread starter
- #24
****. hope someone has good news and not bad news...
- Thread starter
- #25
from the top
- Thread starter
- #26
more from above
- Thread starter
- #27
wet nice and low (and buried) which doesn't seem good...
Ehh mine leaked like that here and there for a week before i found all the places i needed to tighten or got loose while i was doing the work.
You will be fine, get some paper towels and start running then along all the lines starting at the top until you find the sources and then address each one.
I had one that was spraying from a loose clamp haha i was looking on the passenger side as that is where all the coolant was landing. Eventually realized it was the upper radiator hose near the battery haha. I nearly replace my new radiator cause i was freaking out.
Just make sure you keep enough water in it while you are finding leaks. No biggie
You will be fine, get some paper towels and start running then along all the lines starting at the top until you find the sources and then address each one.
I had one that was spraying from a loose clamp haha i was looking on the passenger side as that is where all the coolant was landing. Eventually realized it was the upper radiator hose near the battery haha. I nearly replace my new radiator cause i was freaking out.
Just make sure you keep enough water in it while you are finding leaks. No biggie
Alright, making progress. No need to panic. You've now established you have a leak somewhere. Couple questions.
1. Have you driven this truck before? If so did it leak?
2. Did you start the truck or did it start leaking when you finally got the radiator topped off?
It looks like it is leaking from the front. The hoses you connected yesterday should only cause leaking at the back since all you were doing was connecting the flow to the heater core and rear heater.
Regardless, now you need to figure out where it is leaking. Look at the engine cooling schematic and cabin heating schematic an those diagrams will really show all the potential leakage spots. Follow each hose and check for leaking. As much water as you seem to have coming out, it should be easy to track the source. Could be the water pump or you've said the top seam on the radiator was leaking.
Again, no need to panic. Just track down where the water is escaping the system.
1. Have you driven this truck before? If so did it leak?
2. Did you start the truck or did it start leaking when you finally got the radiator topped off?
It looks like it is leaking from the front. The hoses you connected yesterday should only cause leaking at the back since all you were doing was connecting the flow to the heater core and rear heater.
Regardless, now you need to figure out where it is leaking. Look at the engine cooling schematic and cabin heating schematic an those diagrams will really show all the potential leakage spots. Follow each hose and check for leaking. As much water as you seem to have coming out, it should be easy to track the source. Could be the water pump or you've said the top seam on the radiator was leaking.
Again, no need to panic. Just track down where the water is escaping the system.
The reason i had to replace radiator in the first place. That fan used to blow coolant all over and made me think every hose was leaking
- Thread starter
- #31
ok. thanks gents. i bought it figuring it was an inanimate object and if i had to fix something i’d learn as i went. can’t say i’m not going to have a moment of panic thinking i bought a terminal case (for some reason).
not sure if this is going to answer the questions but i bought it like this with the heater control valve capped and i just put on the new one and new hoses.
it is leaking visibly two hours after topping it off. like i can watch four or five drops ever two seconds or so.
and the radiator is full (or at least it appears to be) after my topping it off with distilled water two hours ago which i find bizarre. but also the oveflow is at full which is here i left it when i topped it off a day or two also with 50/50 green.
when i filled it the radiator with 50/50 green w couple days ago it dropped to well below the top and i had to fill it with like 1/3 gallon of distilled water a couple hours ago.
guess i need to get the FSM and start tracing the coolant around the engine?
is there anything “diagnostic” i can determine if it leaks when it is full above a certain point? er. maybe i could have a crack in the radiator that is leaking and if i fill above a certain point it leaks?
should i check to see if it is coolant leaking or distilled water leaking? not sure if how following coolant rith distilled water behaves in there actually...
i can’t quite explain why it would still be topped off though.
not sure if this is going to answer the questions but i bought it like this with the heater control valve capped and i just put on the new one and new hoses.
it is leaking visibly two hours after topping it off. like i can watch four or five drops ever two seconds or so.
and the radiator is full (or at least it appears to be) after my topping it off with distilled water two hours ago which i find bizarre. but also the oveflow is at full which is here i left it when i topped it off a day or two also with 50/50 green.
when i filled it the radiator with 50/50 green w couple days ago it dropped to well below the top and i had to fill it with like 1/3 gallon of distilled water a couple hours ago.
guess i need to get the FSM and start tracing the coolant around the engine?
is there anything “diagnostic” i can determine if it leaks when it is full above a certain point? er. maybe i could have a crack in the radiator that is leaking and if i fill above a certain point it leaks?
should i check to see if it is coolant leaking or distilled water leaking? not sure if how following coolant rith distilled water behaves in there actually...
i can’t quite explain why it would still be topped off though.
A cupful of coolant goes a LONG way on the ground and down the side of the engine...........
- Thread starter
- #33
ok. thanks a lot. i have a second pair of hands that may be willing to help me which would be great if i can rely on it. also i have covered outside garage space so that makes it all a lot easier to manage.
park it under the covered parking and just get in there and track it down i guess?
or if i can verify the radiator is leaking i should order a radiator, thermostat, fan clutch (?) and a bunch of other items and get in there and figure it out as i go along i guess...?
- Thread starter
- #34
sorry. i have to reread a couple times. i topped it off with coolant day before yesterday (?) and noticed yesterday it was down again. so i topped it off with distilled water today.
key was in ON position for the accugauge but it has not been started.
heater control should be in the COOL position where i left it. but when i put the valve in i positioned the cable so the valve lever was far LEFT assuming that was cool position (if that makes sense).
not sure if that lever is electronically controlling the heater control valve. i guess it must be since the round knob on my tacoma is a bitch to turn since the cable is always sticking. since this one slides so easily i am guessing (?) it is an electronically controlled slider...?
