CDL issue...from a different angle (1 Viewer)

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Aug 18, 2005
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Ok, I know there are many of these threads and I think I have read most if not all. First things first, I have a 94 with OEM lockers. My situation is different in that my CDL is stuck locked with the ABS and CDL light on. I know it is physically locked because it chirps and jerks if I make tight corners. I have a quite a back story on this but for now just know it has been locked for almost a year. I have not driven very much during this last year. I recently moved and just haven't had time to troubleshoot this very much...just off and on. I suspected the relay because I heard it clicking over and over while four wheeling one of the last times I took it out. I also don't hear the actuator motor whirring or any noise for that matter when I lock or unlock the CDL. Oh, I almost forgot. As part of my troubleshooting I installed a CDL switch (that I have probably had for 10 years!) and did the 7 pin mod. I also have checked the fuses and replaced them even though they checked good. I read that the clicking is a good sign the relay is bad and that makes sense so I bought a used one and tried it. No go, no sounds.

I guess my question for now is, do you think I should always hear a click from the relay when trying to engage or disengage if the actuator is bad/stuck? I am just trying to think about my plan of attach. Since I don't hear anything I thought maybe I should troubleshoot the wiring between the relay and the fuse before I drop the case to remove the actuator.

thanks!
 
I'd start with the cdl actuator plug. Spend the time to get it apart without bustin it. Check for corrosion and clean both sides best ya can.
Then either plug it back in and try again or...
Test for the plug for voltage/ground. What pin gets what voltage when? I dunno. If ya dig through threads or have an ewd you'll find out. Then maybe apply voltage and or ground to the pins on the actuator side and see if it goes.
I'd do that before I removed the actuator. I'd also not drop the t/c to get the actuator out if at all possible, which I assume it is.

So I'd start by testing for current and continuity first. Apply some juice. Then if no joy remove the actuator and to test and clean. Could be full up with junk and or rusted.

I'm no expert mechanic so these are just suggestions. I just sorta go for it with less proper prior planning.
 
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Is the clicking a relay or the actual locker engaging? I can't hear my relay, but I can sure hear the lock engage and disengage. I wouldn't describe it as a click. More of a strong, in-your-face-metal-on-metal-slammin'it-home-with-authority CLINK! sound.
It's probably not how Tokyo prefers it, but when it's 0 degrees outside it is a comforting sound indeed.
 
The ground signal that triggers the relays is from the position switch inside the actuator. It is the most common electrical point of failure. The actuator can stick from old dry grease, rust, etc, this can cause the motor to overheat and die.

Some writing about it here, NCF pages explaining how it works are posted on page 3.
 

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