Hey guys, currently I am running Eimkeith’s radius arm drop brackets to help with the caster from my dobinsons lift. With that I am currently at 0 degrees caster. I would like to be somewhere around 3 degrees caster, any recommendations?
Caster Question
- Thread starter CruiserMags
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
voodu3
SILVER Star
Arms are a great option but they are also $$$$. You could also run some land tank plates or offset trunion bearings.
- Thread starter
- #5
I’m settled right at about 3.5”
- Thread starter
- #6
Also he’s been super helpful explaining the differences in caster correction methods and how they work independently of one another, I guess the concern is more looking at these caster playes and if they would be way too much caster in addition
- Thread starter
- #8
He said that the 2.5’s may get me somewhere around 4 so that’s an option
Delta VS
Supporting Vendor
@sleeoffroad probably still has the offset trunnion bearings, they would give you 3* I think. Otherwise, it sounds like you've consulted the right people. Bushings are probably going to put your steering linkage into the radius arms.
- Thread starter
- #10
I may end up just running caster plates and trimming the radius arm bracket so I can go back to the stock hole and still have a reinforced radius arm mount. Awesome product, I think I just have too much lift for it
Do the plates. Than check your caster before you cut the ram mounts. Even if you end up with 4 degrees of positive caster that wouldn't hurt a thing.
Remember 3 degrees of positive caster is the original spec for original tire size. As your tires get bigger extra caster is a good thing. With 3.5" of lift I am assumming your going to run 35's.
Bigger than original tires will put more force on the steering. For instance if your driving down a road and you hit a rut your bigger tires will pull you into the rut with more force than original tire sizes would. This is why extra positive caster is a good thing to a certain extent.
I think 4 degrees positive is perfect for 35's and if I ever run 37's I will personally try to get 5 degrees positive caster.
part of the conversation was that I couldn't say one way or the other if the result would yield a drive line vibration. I realize that most are hyper focussed on caster right up to the point where they can't stop the front from vibrating.
How confident are you with your recommendation that the truck won't vibrate?
Does caster correction cause vibrations or is it the lift that causes vibrations?
Vibrations can be fixed one way or another.
When people lift these things more than 2" it is inevitable that they will need to do a lot more than a "simple lift" and people need to understand this before they decide to lift there rigs more than 2".
The way I see it, proper caster is a saftey issue. Someone driving down the road with not enough caster is a danger to themselves and others.
Get the caster correct and than deal with vibrations.
Last edited:
How badly does your rig drive/ride on road @What speed with your current setup?
Vibrations? Roars? Scraping sounds?
Steering system completely overhauled?
All drive-line bushes current w/i the last half decade?
1
try.
jkeithw
Supporting Vendor
I'm here (a day late, lol)
jkeithw
Supporting Vendor
I like the trunnion bearing approach for additional caster as well - less impact on driveshaft flange angle. That said, I don't know what the magic number is for vibration-inducing angle, so plates might be fine also - anyone know what that specific angle is?
Delta VS
Supporting Vendor
Emperical, hearsay data from our end shows that once you have 3.5” or more of lift, and you get the caster good, the potential for driveline vibes skyrockets. Doesn’t mean you’re going to have issues, but it becomes a real possibility at that low of a lift.
There seems to be a pretty fine line where a DC shaft works, and finding that delicate balance can be difficult for some folks/vehicles (each rig has a life of its own remember). I personally prefer the part time conversion solution (also for the other drivability improvements it provides), but that is also the most expensive solution…
I would like to 2nd the part time kit as the best solution for dealing with vibes.
Good info. Any lift is also going to start to show up any driveline component that is worn, especially the slip yokes in my experience.
When lifting these rigs the slip yokes do become slightly further apart causing vibration, particularly on a driveshaft that isn't brand new. The biggest tell tale sign of bad slip yokes is vibrations on full throttle and on engine compression. It will be smooth when coasting so to speak.
jkeithw
Supporting Vendor
so a shim disk might be beneficial?