Cant fix it, what now?

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We drove 3500 miles. About 30 miles ago my dad was driving. He could have set something on the crawl control button or a phone cord, there is no telling. He is a little older and my wife's dad wa in the car while we were in another rig. I doubt it but maybe they hit something. Anyway the slippery symbol turned on and the green multi-train select icon started blinking. I hooked up text stream and got codes.

C1290 abnormal zero point of steering angle sensor
C1406 open or short in front speed sensor LH circuit

I took out the airbox and ohmed the passenger side and driver side speed sensor wires and they both were okay. The driver side speed sensor was changed about 15,000 miles ago because I accidentally left the wire connected to the upper control arm when I switched everything out for the lift. There has been no issue with that speed sensor since.

I've read that led lights can cause that code. It did have the hikari bulbs that are researched and discussed on Ih8mud and I've switched those back to the normal bulbs.

Before the trip I had a brake controller put in. It's a Curt with the gx460 specific harness that is plug and Play No wire connections anywhere and very simple that has been disconnected from the car. I disconnected the trailer also.

While in tech stream and under chassis/ ABS,VSC,TRAC.../ There is no reset for the zero point calibration.

You can see the RH sensor that I disconnected it to ohm it out and it doesn't have an * to the left, anyway, now its throwing the C1405.

I disconnected the negative battery terminal for 5 minutes, no change.

I dont see a way to clear the codes. Its not the sensor wires. What else could it be. It seems like until I find the fault it wont give me the utility option to got to the Zero point return reset.

What do I do now?

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What version of TS are you using?

You probably already read the code info


It is troubling that a circuit issue is being detected... I can see that causing an errant ZPC to be detected. IMO.. another ZPC which can be done with paper clip & OBD port probably won't fix it until the circuit issue is fixed
I ohmed out the speed sensor harness originally and it was fine so anyway I ended up getting a new harness for the left hand I swapped that out and the text stream said there was still a current vault where is when I did the unplug the right hand it showed the fall and then I plugged it back in and the fault went away I also did the speed sensor and it still showed it I was able to see the speed from the wheels and it showed back and forward when I was in text stream while my wife was driving and even the steering air that it had it showed the steering wheel at 0 and we were driving straight and it saw it moving while we were driving so I'm still not quite sure how I can fix this fault or even where it might be is it possible there's a fuse somewhere? During the trip I found a piece of our cell phone charger the little metal piece on the end look like it was in the cigarette outlet and it popped that fuse probably when the two positive and negative touch from that little button so I replaced that fuse but could that have done something to create a short somewhere. I just remembered. Pardon my voice to text grammar
 

r2m

Richard
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I ohmed out the speed sensor harness originally and it was fine so anyway I ended up getting a new harness for the left hand I swapped that out and the text stream said there was still a current vault where is when I did the unplug the right hand it showed the fall and then I plugged it back in and the fault went away I also did the speed sensor and it still showed it I was able to see the speed from the wheels and it showed back and forward when I was in text stream while my wife was driving and even the steering air that it had it showed the steering wheel at 0 and we were driving straight and it saw it moving while we were driving so I'm still not quite sure how I can fix this fault or even where it might be is it possible there's a fuse somewhere? During the trip I found a piece of our cell phone charger the little metal piece on the end look like it was in the cigarette outlet and it popped that fuse probably when the two positive and negative touch from that little button so I replaced that fuse but could that have done something to create a short somewhere. I just remembered. Pardon my voice to text grammar
With all due respect, could you please re-read your post and perhaps correct parts of it?
I kind of have an idea of what you're saying but then get lost. What's an ohmed? 🤔
 
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Check your ground locations. Shine them up and put petroleum jelly on them for protection.

the fact that you can see that hub’s speed stumps me! Sounds like its working. i’m thinking it works by making voltage spikes as metal passes the coil. be sure no unshielded aftermarket wires are near it, inducing voltage. Finally, there may be a base voltage that runs through the lines. I’d read up on the tech manual to see what that value should be.

Justin
 
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I'd be looking at that LH wheel speed sensor circuit closer still. It sounds like the LH circuit doesn't respond to being unplugged like the RH circuit does, correct?

You said you replaced the wiring harness, but how far did the harness go, all the way from the sensor to the ECU or just from the hub to the UCA area?

Checking resistance between the wires will tell you if they're shorted to each other, but doesn't catch an open condition in the circuit, though I'm unclear on what all test your perfomed when ohming the wiring out.

I'd check the FSM for speed sensor wiring troubleshooting and verify correct signal voltage, ground wire to ground resistance, etc from that front LH circuit. I'd also quickly double check all fuses are good, due to the cig lighter incident. That circuit should be isolated from others, but it's an easy check to verify there's not a shared issue from that shorted circuit.
 
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Learned something new! I just thought that resistance was just measured and given as Ohms. Didn't know that the actual term was Ohmed.
I guess that's why I'm a biomedical/mechanical engineer and leave the sparky things to the EE's!

It’s not an actual term, more shorthand jargon.

- The electrochemist 🤪
 
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