Hey there. I am looking into a beginner road cycle and I like the Cannnondale R300. Does anyone out there use this bike?
Please give me a quick review on it. Thanks
Please give me a quick review on it. Thanks
Cannondale R300. Opinions please?
- Thread starter Suarez0523
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Does it fit?
The most important thing for a beginning rider. Fit, Fit, and Fit. If the bike doesn't fit you and you are not comfortable, nothing else matters.
Now that we got through that, what year R300, a 1986, 1996, or 2006?
At a given price point, you will find the bikes from the major manufactures are comparably equipped. The best thing to do is ride several different bikes in your price range and find the one that feel best to you.
Also, check out roadbikereview.com, specifically their forums.
The most important thing for a beginning rider. Fit, Fit, and Fit. If the bike doesn't fit you and you are not comfortable, nothing else matters.
Now that we got through that, what year R300, a 1986, 1996, or 2006?
At a given price point, you will find the bikes from the major manufactures are comparably equipped. The best thing to do is ride several different bikes in your price range and find the one that feel best to you.
Also, check out roadbikereview.com, specifically their forums.
not really the answer you were looking for but....
In that price range the bike manufacturers juggle components quite a bit. If you are set on getting a new road bike but don't want to spend more than a grand, you will really have to compare how the bikes are spec'd out. Some parts are very cheap to upgrade, some are not. Wheels are about the most important thing on a bike. You want good, strong, lightweight wheels. They are not cheap to upgrade. Things like the rear derailer are very important to shift quality, but they are actually very cheap to upgrade, if your current shifters are compatible. So I would look for a bike with good high quality wheels and possibly a step lower rear derailer that you can upgrade later if you want.
Now the best way at getting a very good road bike is go used. There are so many people out there that have purchased $1500-$2000 bikes and never used them. I purchased a 1 year old mountain bike that cost $2000 new for $500. The rims didn't even have a scratch on them from the brakes being used.
If I were to spec out a bike for someone getting into bike riding I would start with a Shimano 105 triple component set. If you decide to upgrade the frame and such later on because you are riding quite a bit, you can stay with the 105 group. Many people still race Shimano 105. For the price it's hard to beat.
PM me if you have any specific questions, I raced road bikes for quite a few years, if that's what you're goal is.
In that price range the bike manufacturers juggle components quite a bit. If you are set on getting a new road bike but don't want to spend more than a grand, you will really have to compare how the bikes are spec'd out. Some parts are very cheap to upgrade, some are not. Wheels are about the most important thing on a bike. You want good, strong, lightweight wheels. They are not cheap to upgrade. Things like the rear derailer are very important to shift quality, but they are actually very cheap to upgrade, if your current shifters are compatible. So I would look for a bike with good high quality wheels and possibly a step lower rear derailer that you can upgrade later if you want.
Now the best way at getting a very good road bike is go used. There are so many people out there that have purchased $1500-$2000 bikes and never used them. I purchased a 1 year old mountain bike that cost $2000 new for $500. The rims didn't even have a scratch on them from the brakes being used.
If I were to spec out a bike for someone getting into bike riding I would start with a Shimano 105 triple component set. If you decide to upgrade the frame and such later on because you are riding quite a bit, you can stay with the 105 group. Many people still race Shimano 105. For the price it's hard to beat.
PM me if you have any specific questions, I raced road bikes for quite a few years, if that's what you're goal is.
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Not a slam on Cannondale, I own 3, but... They have a hard time competing in the lower end range as their frames are expensive to build(made in USA). At the lower price point corners have to be cut on components. I'd shop around to see what else is available for the same price.
If your looking at a R300 then I assume its used? What year model. Some of the older (pre 2003ish) Cannondale frames are quite stiff and don't make for the most comfortable bike on a long ride. Cannondale had frame problems they resolved in the early 90's.
Steel or Ti frames generally offer a smoother ride than Al. I am yet to ride a carbon road bike I've liked. But its been a few years since I've worked in a shop and tried anything new.
Hope that helps
If your looking at a R300 then I assume its used? What year model. Some of the older (pre 2003ish) Cannondale frames are quite stiff and don't make for the most comfortable bike on a long ride. Cannondale had frame problems they resolved in the early 90's.
Steel or Ti frames generally offer a smoother ride than Al. I am yet to ride a carbon road bike I've liked. But its been a few years since I've worked in a shop and tried anything new.
Hope that helps
- Thread starter
- #5
I do not know what year the one I looked at is. I only looked at a photo and a really good price compared to ALL other road bikes here in St. Petersburg FL. Here is the post,
I am selling a Cannondale R300 Racing Bike. Bike has a Avocet spedo and Look Clipless pedals. Will include Shimano size 10.5 shoes with clips.
This is for $100.00 dollars. I will get as much info as i can tonight when I go ride it. It is 56cm and I am 5 feet 8 in. Thanks for all the advise and I will find out what year by tonight.
I am selling a Cannondale R300 Racing Bike. Bike has a Avocet spedo and Look Clipless pedals. Will include Shimano size 10.5 shoes with clips.
This is for $100.00 dollars. I will get as much info as i can tonight when I go ride it. It is 56cm and I am 5 feet 8 in. Thanks for all the advise and I will find out what year by tonight.
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That is a good price for any bike.
But... if the drive train is completely wore out you will end up spending much more to get it into usable service. But still could be a very good deal, especially if the shoes fit.
Make sure it fits. A 56cm could be a touch too big.
But... if the drive train is completely wore out you will end up spending much more to get it into usable service. But still could be a very good deal, especially if the shoes fit.
Make sure it fits. A 56cm could be a touch too big.
- Thread starter
- #8
It is actually a 54 cm, but still great for the money. I am just starting to ride, so I did not want anything expensive. The bike seems to be in pretty good shape for a bike rom 1995. It has it's few scratches here and there, but cmon, its a $100.00.
It had a flat rear, but the guy had another tube. I replaced it, but not to get air on that darn thing!!! AHhhhhh, I can't figure it out. I might be a little stupid on this, but I don't hink the pump it came with is supposed to work on it. Anyways, thanks for the advise.
PS. Do I need a new air pump?
It had a flat rear, but the guy had another tube. I replaced it, but not to get air on that darn thing!!! AHhhhhh, I can't figure it out. I might be a little stupid on this, but I don't hink the pump it came with is supposed to work on it. Anyways, thanks for the advise.
PS. Do I need a new air pump?
- Thread starter
- #10
I got a floor pump,but it is the same as this one. This is the one that came with the bike, the other one is comparable to a pump from Walmart.
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a 54cm is probably the right size for you.
You need to unscrew the air valve on the stem of the tube to get air in/out.
The pump pictured will probably work but you may have to reverse the internals where you connect it to the tube. Most pumps will work with both valves but need to be set up properly.
You need to unscrew the air valve on the stem of the tube to get air in/out.
The pump pictured will probably work but you may have to reverse the internals where you connect it to the tube. Most pumps will work with both valves but need to be set up properly.
- Thread starter
- #13
I ended up getting a presta adapter. $1.99.
I bought two just in case i loose one. I am hopefully going to start riding tonight.
I am in pretty good shape(5,8 and 150 lbs), and have never ridden. This should be a great challenge. I hear people talking about riding 15, 20, 30, 60 miles and it sounds crazy. Lets hope I can get there in less than a year.
I bought two just in case i loose one. I am hopefully going to start riding tonight.
I am in pretty good shape(5,8 and 150 lbs), and have never ridden. This should be a great challenge. I hear people talking about riding 15, 20, 30, 60 miles and it sounds crazy. Lets hope I can get there in less than a year.
You got a very good deal. Concider going to your local shop and have them "Fit" you to the bike, (if indeed it is the correct size).
I reitterate the above comments...Fit is most important.
Last winter/spring I put on 2500miles in about 4 months. Just start easy and work your way up. It is good fun and great for you too.
Since I purchased 2 fj40 projects I have been on my bike like twice.
I reitterate the above comments...Fit is most important.
Last winter/spring I put on 2500miles in about 4 months. Just start easy and work your way up. It is good fun and great for you too.
Since I purchased 2 fj40 projects I have been on my bike like twice.
To help you get started with your fit on your bike, here is a good way to get your seat hight and for aft position close to start with. Ride like this for a while and then adjust as necessary. I would not recommend moving your saddle position more than 1/4" from these positions at a time when you make adjustments. You will find that small changes make a big difference and take several rides to get used to. 98% of people will end up with their saddle position within 1cm of the positions suggested in these formula's. Also remember saddle tilt is important, level or slightly nose up. Finally, buy a good pair of shorts. They don't need to cost a lot, check out Performance bike and Voler for good shorts for a moderate price (less than $40).
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit/
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit/
Be prepared, your pelvic bone is going to be sore after the first couple rides. You will not want to sit on that bike again, but you must! It is critical to face that pain and keep on riding. Before you know it - in maybe a week - you will not notice the pain any longer.
If you do, you need to find another seat. Some people are comfortable on the V-shaped seats with the depression from the center to the rear. Others like me prefer the seat with the center hole. Mine is a Terry Liberator, and it made a century ride seem like a breeze as compared to my previous conventional seat.
A good source for bike parts is also Bike Nashbar on-line. They have very competitive pricing and the best selection of shoes and pedals.
Good Luck
If you do, you need to find another seat. Some people are comfortable on the V-shaped seats with the depression from the center to the rear. Others like me prefer the seat with the center hole. Mine is a Terry Liberator, and it made a century ride seem like a breeze as compared to my previous conventional seat.
A good source for bike parts is also Bike Nashbar on-line. They have very competitive pricing and the best selection of shoes and pedals.
Good Luck
- Thread starter
- #17
Thanks for all the help guys.
I took it out last night and it is kind of a bumpy ride. It is great though. As fast as it can be. i am taking it to school tonight, which is about 70 blocks away. It is a really fun bike and luckily for me, I live in a very bicycle friendly city. Lots of road signs, and bicycle lanes.
I took it out last night and it is kind of a bumpy ride. It is great though. As fast as it can be. i am taking it to school tonight, which is about 70 blocks away. It is a really fun bike and luckily for me, I live in a very bicycle friendly city. Lots of road signs, and bicycle lanes.
Cannondale r300
Since I have a question about the same bike, I am taking the opportunity of posting in an already existing thread.
I got the following offer in CL:
'I'm selling my roadbike to buy another one. It is a cannondale r300 and has a mix of mostly shimano ultegra components and tiagra shifters. It has an aluminum frame and a carbon fork. It has mavic wheels with shimano hubs. There is one small ding in the top tube but has absolutely no effect on performance. I just put a new Selle Italia saddle on it. It is in excellent condition and needs nothing. Size is 57cm but measures 56.5. I am 5-10 and it fits me perfectly. I am slightly negotiable on the price but please no low ball offers. I am asking $325 for the bike which is very reasonable. pedals are not included'.
The seller says its a 2000/2001 model. I am 5-9, is this a good height, for me? May I get comments on the price?
I will appreciate your help, and thanks a lot for reading this!!
-Soham.
Since I have a question about the same bike, I am taking the opportunity of posting in an already existing thread.
I got the following offer in CL:
'I'm selling my roadbike to buy another one. It is a cannondale r300 and has a mix of mostly shimano ultegra components and tiagra shifters. It has an aluminum frame and a carbon fork. It has mavic wheels with shimano hubs. There is one small ding in the top tube but has absolutely no effect on performance. I just put a new Selle Italia saddle on it. It is in excellent condition and needs nothing. Size is 57cm but measures 56.5. I am 5-10 and it fits me perfectly. I am slightly negotiable on the price but please no low ball offers. I am asking $325 for the bike which is very reasonable. pedals are not included'.
The seller says its a 2000/2001 model. I am 5-9, is this a good height, for me? May I get comments on the price?
I will appreciate your help, and thanks a lot for reading this!!
-Soham.
Cannondales are good bikes. I'm still riding a st500 from back in the '80s and put well over 50,000 miles on it over the years. I'm thinking of having a new set of bio-pace chainrings made for it as they make loaded climbing of hills easy. The only complaint I have with it is the width for the rear hub. For a short period there was an intermediate width for 6 speeds with regular width chains. Can't find hubs to fit without going to real expensive ones.
What concerns me is the ding on the frame. I'd inspect it to see that it isn't to deep. AL tube bikes get their strength from thin large diameter tubes and are much more affected by dents than steel tubed bikes. I have two small dings on my frame. The are at most 1/32" deep so aren't an issue.
What concerns me is the ding on the frame. I'd inspect it to see that it isn't to deep. AL tube bikes get their strength from thin large diameter tubes and are much more affected by dents than steel tubed bikes. I have two small dings on my frame. The are at most 1/32" deep so aren't an issue.