First, I did search and have read some resent threads simular to this, but still cannot find the answer. I don't want to crank this engine too much as the cam shaft needs to be run in.
Background: Replaced a tired 22RE engine with a fresh rebuilt 22RE. Installed larger throttle body, new injectors (correct type, same as original engine to mate with the wiring). Old engine started and ran fine, it was just tired.
Problem: New engine will fire when turning the key to start, on release of key to the run position, the engine dies. We can get the short firing maybe twice and then it will only crank, it will not try to refire until it sits about fifteen minutes. I have not held the key to "start" just to keep it running. Pressing the accelerator or hand turning the throttle plate will not keep it running.
Checks:
Timing is set for TDC, verified more than I can count.
New plugs, plug wires, all check correct and in proper firing order.
Spark tested on plug wires to block.
Timing light will indicate firing and TDC when cranking engine.
Fuel pump runs.
Fuel pressure at fuel rail verified by cold start fuel line squirting when loosened.
Air flow meter tested both on and off the truck via the FSM specs to proper Ohms and flapper moves freely.
Throttle position tested to specs of FSM.
Injectors Solenoid Resistor tested per FSM to show battery voltage on both the pos and neg. leads from the resistor (11.7VDC in 11.7VDC out).
Individual fuel injectors tested at 1.2 – 1.4 Ohms.
Testing of ECU wiring connectors (Batt. voltage 11.7VDC)
Terminals +B – E1, 2.4VDC (10 – 14 required)
Terminals BATT – E1, 7.2VDC (10 – 14 required)
Throttle body terminals IDL – E2, (valve open) 2.2VDC ( 4 – 10 required)
VTA – E2, (fully closed) .06VDC (.1 – 1 required)
Vcc – E2, (fully open) 1.1VDC (4 – 6 required)
Injectors, terminals 10 & 20, 2.3VDC (9 – 14 required)
There is more but these show to be way out of limit.
Continuing issue with the troubleshooting, there is no “Check Engine” light when the key is in the “on” position, so I can not look for codes. Don’t know about running as it will not run. To complicate this issue, after you try to start the engine, and then you turn the key from “On” to the normal “off”, the “check engine” and “charge” light come on. If you turn the key back to “on” then back to off, they will go out. Also if they are on, and you pull a 7.5amp fuse (not sure if it’s the “charge” or “ign.” fuse as there is no diagram on the panel) they go out.
All panel fuses check good, the fusible links (30 & 40 amp) check good and have 11.7VDC to them. Battery terminals are clean, connectors are clean, and the only equipment connected to the battery is the starter, winch and the power to the fusible link box. We have had to jumper the battery to another vehicle and other times used a battery booster to do these test.
What basic/simple item am I overlooking
???
Jerry D.
Background: Replaced a tired 22RE engine with a fresh rebuilt 22RE. Installed larger throttle body, new injectors (correct type, same as original engine to mate with the wiring). Old engine started and ran fine, it was just tired.
Problem: New engine will fire when turning the key to start, on release of key to the run position, the engine dies. We can get the short firing maybe twice and then it will only crank, it will not try to refire until it sits about fifteen minutes. I have not held the key to "start" just to keep it running. Pressing the accelerator or hand turning the throttle plate will not keep it running.
Checks:
Timing is set for TDC, verified more than I can count.
New plugs, plug wires, all check correct and in proper firing order.
Spark tested on plug wires to block.
Timing light will indicate firing and TDC when cranking engine.
Fuel pump runs.
Fuel pressure at fuel rail verified by cold start fuel line squirting when loosened.
Air flow meter tested both on and off the truck via the FSM specs to proper Ohms and flapper moves freely.
Throttle position tested to specs of FSM.
Injectors Solenoid Resistor tested per FSM to show battery voltage on both the pos and neg. leads from the resistor (11.7VDC in 11.7VDC out).
Individual fuel injectors tested at 1.2 – 1.4 Ohms.
Testing of ECU wiring connectors (Batt. voltage 11.7VDC)
Terminals +B – E1, 2.4VDC (10 – 14 required)
Terminals BATT – E1, 7.2VDC (10 – 14 required)
Throttle body terminals IDL – E2, (valve open) 2.2VDC ( 4 – 10 required)
VTA – E2, (fully closed) .06VDC (.1 – 1 required)
Vcc – E2, (fully open) 1.1VDC (4 – 6 required)
Injectors, terminals 10 & 20, 2.3VDC (9 – 14 required)
There is more but these show to be way out of limit.
Continuing issue with the troubleshooting, there is no “Check Engine” light when the key is in the “on” position, so I can not look for codes. Don’t know about running as it will not run. To complicate this issue, after you try to start the engine, and then you turn the key from “On” to the normal “off”, the “check engine” and “charge” light come on. If you turn the key back to “on” then back to off, they will go out. Also if they are on, and you pull a 7.5amp fuse (not sure if it’s the “charge” or “ign.” fuse as there is no diagram on the panel) they go out.
All panel fuses check good, the fusible links (30 & 40 amp) check good and have 11.7VDC to them. Battery terminals are clean, connectors are clean, and the only equipment connected to the battery is the starter, winch and the power to the fusible link box. We have had to jumper the battery to another vehicle and other times used a battery booster to do these test.
What basic/simple item am I overlooking
??? Jerry D.
...
. The ground is under the air intake next to the oil filter and above the gas filter. Tight place with other connectors, but still it was overlooked.
Hehehe Glad it was an easy fix 