Can not deside 91 LC or 97 LX

[CreeperSleeper]

I drift my 4runner....

But that's easy... That's like me bragging that I drifted my BMW on the way to work.

I just think it's funny that we are nit-picking to this extent. Personally, I would like both. (but if I could only pick one, I'd take an FZJ80... I'm okay with my small penis)

 

[tntoyota]

Personally, I would like both. (but if I could only pick one, I'd take an FZJ80... I'm okay with my small penis)

Yep x2, theres one (locked) locally I'm trying to get.... (I can feel it shrinking...)

 

[Gappy]

I have often wonder and have never asked......I suppose this is a good thread to ask.
Is there a noticeable difference in the on-road or off-road performance of the frame/unibody between the 60 and 80 series?

 

[tntoyota]

I have often wonder and have never asked......I suppose this is a good thread to ask.
Is there a noticeable difference in the on-road or off-road performance of the frame/unibody between the 60 and 80 series?

60, frame....full frame, leave springs


80, frame...full frame, coil springs.


............uh, yeah!



travel and ride are the two major but traction (diffs) makes the world of difference

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Unibody?!? Stop hangin out with Cherokee guys!!!

 

[schlaker]

Get a late model for $5,000-6,000. Got my '93 for $4200 with 136,000. They're out there. Nobody ever dissed the 3FE, just slowwwwww on the pavement. (Not that the1FZ is a rocket, just impoved)

If you go with '91 or '92 then you shoud be paying a lot less. $3000 - $4500 here in California.

Might as well get a 62 so you can say that you have a REAL Land Cruiser!

 

[KAVNUT]

The 91 $5k and 97 $9k.

I am looking for offroad capability my daily drive it 1/2 mile to work.

Thanks for all the input.

Depending on what you plan to do with the rig. But come on, who lifts an LX and then off roads her (okay, I take that back...I am sure there are a lot of you on the forum)?
Go with the '91, you'll love it, have the 2k needed to lift and put your 33's, and even have extra to purchase that ARB Winch Bumper and a Warn Winch for the total cost of the '97.....

you'll even have enough to do a really good maint. check, replace a few seals and make it off road ready!!!

3FE Rocks!

Welcome and

 

[Gappy]

60, frame....full frame, leave springs


80, frame...full frame, coil springs.


............uh, yeah!



travel and ride are the two major but traction (diffs) makes the world of difference

Sorry bout that!! I'm embarassed!! I have never crawled under an 80 before. I actually took someones word on this that sells 60's and 40's for a living. Wow, I'm sure a few 80's owners bit their tongue when they read my post, you could have hammered me real good!

 

[Gappy]

Unibody?!? Stop hangin out with Cherokee guys!!!

I don't know what is worse, me thinking a 80 is a unibody or you accusing me of hangin with Cherokee guys!!

 

[Tools R Us]

You said it, so I will bust it! And continue to bust peoples mentality towards, "I gotz a big motor! Shirley it should handle big a$$ tars! "

Any motor this side of a Diesel, when jumping FROM factory tire to 33's IS A DOG! Kudos cracking the Da Vinci code on that one....

I could put 33's on my 4runner then b!$ch about the power, but smart would I sound?...

About as smart as you sound here? ANYTIME bigger tires are installed, regardless of the motor type/design, some performance will be lost and lower gears will help in recovering some of it. But the 1FZ, being a stronger motor, with higher HP and torque over a wider band will handle bigger tires better.

It would be an easy test, take a little trip out to AZ, we will take a test drive in my junk, then pull the 37”s and put them on your rig. I bet even you will notice a difference!

1FZ if, 20-50% is off-highway, you require leather and are the complete opposite of above, wear a suit and tie and know who "Salvatore Ferragamo" is......and "Star Bucks" is part of your daily commute......

I have a few suits and a tux, but don’t believe I have ever driven the LX with one on? Most of the time, I drive it with grubby work duds. I know for a fact it’s never been to Star Bucks.

By “1FZ if, 20-50% is off-highway” your saying that it should be used as a dedicated trail rig? Over the Thanksgiving weekend mine was used as a trail rig, hit the trails all day, for 3 days. The trails we ran were about 60 miles from the house. So 120 miles a day highway and 20 miles of trail, not even 20% and most of it’s use is as a DD.

Most of us aren’t privileged enough to live at the trail head and I wouldn’t want to drive the same trail all of the time, so my rig is used to travel to unique destinations to wheel. In the summer to the mountains, winter the desert, a couple of trips to Moab a year, etc. I bet if you did a poll, must rigs here that see a lot of trail time, only spend about 5-10% of their mileage on the trail and most much less.

If your just bombing down forest roads it’s easy to rack up miles, but not like the miles per hour/day that you can on the highway. If your running challenging trails the mileage will be much less. Take for example Spike in Moab, most that have run it with a group will say it’s a long day and it’s what 17 miles? To get to 50% trail mileage your bordering on a trailer towed rig.

 

[tntoyota]

About as smart as you sound here? ANYTIME bigger tires are installed, regardless of the motor type/design, some performance will be lost and lower gears will help in recovering some of it. But the 1FZ, being a stronger motor, with higher HP and torque over a wider band will handle bigger tires better.

You dont have to tell me what big'ol tar's do, I know. I'm just tired of the 3fe getting a bad wrap because of it!

They are both killer motors but as I said above "If you cant get parts and a place to work on them"..........I'd take the 3fe


like here:YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.


If the tars fit it, you must roll with it!................BS!, I've seen it way to many times (coming from the mini's) "I gots 35's on my rig chevy's got 4:11's I got 4:11's and that dern 22r aint gots no power...."


well it aint the 22r's fault thats all...

 

[Tools R Us]

1FZ....kmmmmt! I cant say it with a straight face, any service on the motor will result in higher labor rates and price premium for parts.trailered...

The F motor is a great motor for a 50’s design. The 1FZ, being a 90’s design is smoother, revs better, gets much better power from close to the same fuel input and requires less maintenance. They are both stout and reliable, but both have their warts. I bet if you could pull the repair/warranty records from Toyota the 1FZ is more reliable, as it should be for a newer design and the long term cost of ownership is close to the same or slightly less for the 1FZ.

I'd go with the 91 for 3 reasons.

Head gasket on the 1FZ...

IMHO, this issue is way blown out of proportion on this site. I have replaced head gaskets in, 20R’s, 3slows, F motors and most other brands of motors. But haven’t yet done one on a 1FZ, despite having 3 in the family, 2 in the 150K mi range. Yes they are slightly more prone to failure, possibly even higher than the national average for 90’s design motors. Buying any vehicle new or used with the expectation of zero problems is a fantasy, even more so with a +10 yr old one. So I have no problems with driving my 1FZ with it’s “flawed” head gasket, if it fails, it will get replaced and the new design has proven to be better. For me it’s not an issue and don’t allow it to affect my enjoyment of driving a very fine truck/motor.

 

[Tools R Us]

I'd go with the 91 for 3 reasons.

2) No viscous coupler...

I totally agree with that statement for some reason I believe it has been the source of many members wipe outs here on mud, do a search.

I have been doing some research and although I am not ready to present my findings yet to the NTSB , I feel that it is the uncertainty of a system and its activation or lack of activation that is a source for a unpredictable response in the AWD chassis.

The DaVinci code....VVV
(Sorta like counter steering with a front wheel drive car, a no-no, in a FWD you are to steer where you want it to go then floor it, (unlocked, tail out, then) counter steer a AWD VC and it locks.....bye bye birdy! )

Unpredictable handling is very hard to recover from and hard to sense in an out of control maneuver, the removal of said VC would have the chassis more predictable and responsive manor should the vehicle become out of control.

My

Big

Fat

Humble

Opinion

Continue your research, I’m sure the NTSB can hardly wait to hear from you! I respect that this is your opinion, but it has no factual base. The VC doesn’t lock, it’s a fluid coupling, so provides smooth viscous torque transfer. It’s been well proven in road and race vehicles for years.

If you feel that somehow the added traction is going to cause you to “wipe out” and “bye bye birdy” it’s a simple operation to remove it.

 

[BooKilla]

Unibody?!? Stop hangin out with Cherokee guys!!!

i think i just pee'd a little

 

[tntoyota]

If you feel that somehow the added traction is going to cause you to “wipe out” and “bye bye birdy” it’s a simple operation to remove it.

no no no no no........added traction does not make you wipe out I never said that, WHEN YOU START TO WIPE OUT......and then try to recover.....


Its not the "added traction" it's when the added traction is applied....



lots of documented "I dont know how it happened..." "It happened so fast" "It should have went that way..."

 

[WildHare]

ANYTIME bigger tires are installed, regardless of the motor type/design, some performance will be lost and lower gears will help in recovering some of it. But the 1FZ, being a stronger motor, with higher HP and torque over a wider band will handle bigger tires better.
...

I bet if you did a poll, must rigs here that see a lot of trail time, only spend about 5-10% of their mileage on the trail and most much less.

To get to 50% trail mileage your bordering on a trailer towed rig.

I agree. For most every non-trailered vehicle, most all miles will be on pavement. Thus, modifications that significantly reduce a non-trailered vehicle's on-road performance don't make much sense to me. Why ruin vehicle driveability for 90%+ of your seat time?

Modifications can reduce handling, comfort, safety, reliability and increase maintenance. Reducing reliability also goes against my requirements for driving to and from the trailhead, often 50+ miles each way.

With this in mind, I plan to restore my older ('93 FZJ-80) vehicle to recover some of it's original reliability, and it to enhance offroadability to just beyond stock. My plan is to limit tire size to 285's, probably with stock height heavy duty OME springs. However, there will be armor all around first, as no amount of lift can replace good tow and jack points.

Besides, some parking garages here in Vegas are limited to about seven feet vertical clearance. I often don't see tall SUV's (read: H2) or pickups in the garage due to that fact. Instead, they sit in the outdoor ground level lots, far from the entrance, baking in the 115 degree sun. Thus, my total vehicle height, as determined by tires, lift, and roof rack cannot go up much from stock. I myself could keep the vehicle height in mind and avoid those garages. However, heaven forbid a GF/SO crushes the roof just trying to find a parking space. On a vehicle that old, that kind of damage could immediately total the vehicle.

Despite my offroading desires, me and my vehicle must continue to live in an urban environment. Better to tame the beast than have no vehicle, and no offroading, at all.

-Dan