Can a steering rack shift position? (1 Viewer)

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The joint that I've had issues with is in the green circle. To check, put your key in the ignition and turn it to unlock the steering wheel. Don't start the truck. Reach under the dash from the inside, pull the rubber boot up, and grab the joint. Turn the steering wheel with one hand while you hold the joint with the other. If the joint feels crunchy, moves too much before the wheels move, or clicks or makes noise, that is probably your issue.
 
I can feel play in the u joint as well. How would these parts have so much wear? I know they turn quite a bit but they're not even outside or subject to anything harmful. Is the only way to change either of those parts to pull the whole thing apart?
 
This is condensed from what I have read on the net:

Pull connectors to column with battery unhooked (for at least 10 minutes for safety) and drop the steering column. Mark the joint and the column with a white line or something so you know how they line up.. Make SURE the column doesn't turn.

Undo the pinch bolt on the joint, undo the bolts holding it to front column shaft going to the steering rack. Mark the new joint in the same place as the marks on the old joint. Line up the new joint and the column and put it all back together.
 
Quick update shop looked at it today and said they could emulate the problem but they checked everything was tourqed down and the rack definately wasnt moving.

Took it home, with the engine off i could here creaking when going one side to the other. had wife work the wheel and i checked each universal and all looked good and then found.......the rack moving and a quarter of a inch laterally. its sliding slightly inside the whiteline rack mount. the shop mentioned using the new bushing that came with the rack so that means i have rubber on the vericle bolt and urathan on the circular mount. having just steppedup to a meatier tire probably doesn help.


So here the new question. do i ask them to replace the rubber mounts with the other urathanes to make it more firm and distribute that loador do i ask them to remove the circular mount and replace with oem so both side flex the same but return home equal too?
 
Flexing and movement is not good. Put poly in all locations, that's my take, and what I've done. You're sure there's rubber on the driver's side? What did they do with the DS poly bushings? Did you provide the kit?
 
Flexing and movement is not good. Put poly in all locations, that's my take, and what I've done. You're sure there's rubber on the driver's side? What did they do with the DS poly bushings? Did you provide the kit?

I dont think they imediately realized the full kit i gave them was different. the new rack had bushings allready and came with frame side bushings. i think they just used thosed and then put the poly on the passenger side since it was all that was left needed.

They gave me back the drivers side poly bushings.
 
I dont think they imediately realized the full kit i gave them was different. the new rack had bushings allready and came with frame side bushings. i think they just used thosed and then put the poly on the passenger side since it was all that was left needed.

They gave me back the drivers side poly bushings.
The truck came with rubber bushings when new from the factory. Poly bushings are better, (IMHO) but there is NOTHING wrong with rubber ones - some prefer them over poly, even.

I don't think the rack moving 1/4 inch would cause any creaking you could hear in the steering. Just my $.02.

If you paid them to put the poly ones in, however, I think a good shop should make it right.
 
The joint that I've had issues with is in the green circle. To check, put your key in the ignition and turn it to unlock the steering wheel. Don't start the truck. Reach under the dash from the inside, pull the rubber boot up, and grab the joint. Turn the steering wheel with one hand while you hold the joint with the other. If the joint feels crunchy, moves too much before the wheels move, or clicks or makes noise, that is probably your issue.
Were you able to get just the U joint or did you have to buy the whole shaft? What part #?
 
Were you able to get just the U joint or did you have to buy the whole shaft? What part #?
Just the joint. Double check the number below before you order for yours, that is the one I bought for my LC.

COUPLING ASSY, FLEXIBLE
Part Number: 4523060030
 
The truck came with rubber bushings when new from the factory. Poly bushings are better, (IMHO) but there is NOTHING wrong with rubber ones - some prefer them over poly, even.

I don't think the rack moving 1/4 inch would cause any creaking you could hear in the steering. Just my $.02.

If you paid them to put the poly ones in, however, I think a good shop should make it right.

My MY 99 is doing the same thing. Just had my friend who is an ex-Lexus mechanic take a look at it yesterday. The rack started making noises a couple weeks ago and he verified it once he had it up on the rack.
 
^ yikes, my bad. Misread the post.
 
This is condensed from what I have read on the net:

Pull connectors to column with battery unhooked (for at least 10 minutes for safety) and drop the steering column. Mark the joint and the column with a white line or something so you know how they line up.. Make SURE the column doesn't turn.

Undo the pinch bolt on the joint, undo the bolts holding it to front column shaft going to the steering rack. Mark the new joint in the same place as the marks on the old joint. Line up the new joint and the column and put it all back together.
I'm taking apart my column today to see if that's where my steering shaft play is. I've lived with it long enough and it's bugging me too much now
 

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