Can a loose Ignition coil cable cause power loss

[brainhax]

Ditto; replace the coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs, air filter, --- and other preventive maintenance (PCV valve/hoses, etc) while while you're in there. FWIW IME Iridium type plugs (Denso Iridium TT for example) work well in the 1FZFE.

"I can see water around the chassis near the muffler when it’s idling or revving"

Did the muffler explosion damage the rear heater lines (is there coolant or just plain water in the cooling system??) or is that water from a recent water crossing?

Coolant and plain water in the radiator.
I don't see any damage in the engine bay related to heater lines. Coolant level is same as it was before the drive today. Water like substance is coming to the exhaust as seen in the last pictures above. Need to figure out if it's the coolant

The water crossing I did was a year ago.

 

[LongDuck]

What he's saying is that the rear heater lines run in that area and your explosion may have damaged the coolant lines that run to the rear heater. Since you're not running enough Toyota Red or even Generic Green antifreeze to tell if it's coolant leaking, any leaks at those heater lines will just look like water dripping.

Water dripping there is not normal. Check your Radiator level and overflow bottle to see if it's getting pumped out. Also, a quick check would include turning your Heater Valve to full hot. This will increase the flow through the rear heater lines, and probably then you'll see that you have a serious issue that needs to be repaired under there.

You can see it better once you get your muffler shrapnel out of the way. Also, when you drain the coolant / water from your Radiator, that would be a good time to consider adding the proper mix of antifreeze. If it were me, I'd give up on that Ignitor / Coil and just buy a new replacement - if original, it doesn't owe you anything at this point in time.

(*Another thing that crossed my mind is that your explosive engine events may have damaged the head gasket, allowing coolant / water to flow into a cylinder and be pumped into the exhaust,... but again - you say it's idling and running well.)

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Ignition component replacement is one of the best things you can do for fuel economy in any case, and x2, only run genuine cap, rotor, leads and coil. The quality is far better than anything I've seen aftermarket.

IMHO you can't diagnose anything else properly until you have it running well.

 

[jpoole]

A possible for the water is that for every gallon of fuel burned more than a gallon of water is produced. When the system and air are warm this water vapor is invisible as it exits but when it's cold you'll see the condensation and dripping from the tailpipe if the exhaust is cool. In your case if you are doing short run tests with a cold chassis and a lot of the exhaust passing over the chassis it could lead to condensation on the chassis that runs down and puddles along the bottom as shown. No idea if that's what's happening in your case but wanted to throw a scenario out there that doesn't lead to more repair work...

Bang up job exploding that muffler!

 

[brainhax]

Ditto; replace the coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs, air filter, --- and other preventive maintenance (PCV valve/hoses, etc) while while you're in there. FWIW IME Iridium type plugs (Denso Iridium TT for example) work well in the 1FZFE.

"I can see water around the chassis near the muffler when it’s idling or revving"

Did the muffler explosion damage the rear heater lines (is there coolant or just plain water in the cooling system??) or is that water from a recent water crossing?

I think its just condessation from the exaust. it disappears when the truck is warm and idling. Because the radiator water/fluid is not decreasing.
I removed the muffler and had a good look. There is no rear heater in FZJ80R, that's why I couldn't see any lines once the muffler is removed.

One strange thing I saw was smoke coming out (when the heater is running only) from "99556 30100" hose area. I do not have a hose there. its just an open end pipe. Heater works well though. Is it something explosion related?

This is not my engine bay , its from one of very famous post here on ih8mud.

 

[LongDuck]

Are you sure it's not your EGR valve? I can't imagine you'd be seeing smoke from the heater lines.

Tell us more about this truck. I'm intrigued because it seems to have just about everything wrong...

 

[AussieHJCruza]

No EGR valve either

 

[petegangies]

ummmm are you saying you dont have a hose coming off your heater tap?? Very odd... especially if the heater still works... must have bypassed something. Why not post a picture of your actual engine bay in that area so we can see the setup and advise accordingly?

 

[brainhax]

ummmm are you saying you dont have a hose coming off your heater tap?? Very odd... especially if the heater still works... must have bypassed something. Why not post a picture of your actual engine bay in that area so we can see the setup and advise accordingly?

Here you go.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

That's a normal aussie truck heater setup, no rear heater over here generally.

 

[brainhax]

That's a normal aussie truck heater setup, no rear heater over here generally.

Alright. When heater is running, I do see some smoke coming out from this pipe. Will make a video.

 

[petegangies]

yep.. as @AussieHJCruza stated.. this is a normal aussie heater setup. The right side heater hose has been off at some stage, as the worm drive clamps are aftermarket. It would be worth inspecting your pesky heater hose down the passenger side of the block near the firewall end. If any signs of leaking, bulging etc, look to replace it asap.