- Thread starter
- #21
ah, ferg... right. found it. sounds more complicated than i remember. sounds like i should just go get a full float housing.
cable locker, any options? (FAQ)
- Thread starter stumpy
- Start date
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Eric,
There are a handful of OE cable locked rigs in SLC (Darrells, Gregs & Stews come to mind
). All things considered they are a great locker... but as with the OE E-Locker there are those that would trade them for an ARB. By the time you buy a FF, swap the shafts, build cable actuator systems, the ARB's are looking cheap.
To put things in perspective:
Rear ends...
If you already have a FF axle or plan to get one soon, then the OE locker is a decent option. You'll need the special long spline shaft (available OE for ~$275). The cost of the used OE E-lockers is anywhere from $450 - $650. So its easy to see that even if you already have the FF that it is going to be about 6's with the ARB system (FF's are ~$400 and need at least $200 to rebuild them). There are alot of factors, regearing, install kits, setup labor, etc that are a case by case deal. Then you have to switch and wire the E-locker, the ARB setup (when you buy the compressor) is ready to install, plug and play.
If you have a SF, don't waste your time... if you need a selectable locker go ARB.
Front end at a minimum requires the special long spline shaft, available OE or custom aftermarket. Once again the ARB is starting to look pretty good
For those that really rally their junk, I think the ARB is the no-brainer, if/when a shaft breaks with the OE locker, you potentially have to perform surgery on the axle to get the broken parts out (meaning no trail fixes).
The setups we were really into were the OE Toyota cable locker options... we were buying complete new diffs & cable mechanisms, and having the cables built here locally (Six States cable shop). However it still required a FF in the rear and cost wise it was hard to beat the ARB. Smoother engage/disengage, commonly available spare parts... yada, yada, yada. I had both options at my disposal when I did my swap... I decided the ARB was a little more up to my needs, after seeing the aftermath of a broken E-locker, its no surprise guys like Slee and myself advocates the ARB over the E-locker in heavily wheeled rigs.
There was a ton of info on the ARB vs. OEM in this thread, including some of the stuff I posted above:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=113823&highlight=cable+lockers
The numbers I posted are assuming you use an E-locker, the cable locker is likely going to be even $200+ more than the E-locker conversion...
There are a handful of OE cable locked rigs in SLC (Darrells, Gregs & Stews come to mind
). All things considered they are a great locker... but as with the OE E-Locker there are those that would trade them for an ARB. By the time you buy a FF, swap the shafts, build cable actuator systems, the ARB's are looking cheap.To put things in perspective:
Rear ends...
If you already have a FF axle or plan to get one soon, then the OE locker is a decent option. You'll need the special long spline shaft (available OE for ~$275). The cost of the used OE E-lockers is anywhere from $450 - $650. So its easy to see that even if you already have the FF that it is going to be about 6's with the ARB system (FF's are ~$400 and need at least $200 to rebuild them). There are alot of factors, regearing, install kits, setup labor, etc that are a case by case deal. Then you have to switch and wire the E-locker, the ARB setup (when you buy the compressor) is ready to install, plug and play.
If you have a SF, don't waste your time... if you need a selectable locker go ARB.
Front end at a minimum requires the special long spline shaft, available OE or custom aftermarket. Once again the ARB is starting to look pretty good
For those that really rally their junk, I think the ARB is the no-brainer, if/when a shaft breaks with the OE locker, you potentially have to perform surgery on the axle to get the broken parts out (meaning no trail fixes).
The setups we were really into were the OE Toyota cable locker options... we were buying complete new diffs & cable mechanisms, and having the cables built here locally (Six States cable shop). However it still required a FF in the rear and cost wise it was hard to beat the ARB. Smoother engage/disengage, commonly available spare parts... yada, yada, yada. I had both options at my disposal when I did my swap... I decided the ARB was a little more up to my needs, after seeing the aftermath of a broken E-locker, its no surprise guys like Slee and myself advocates the ARB over the E-locker in heavily wheeled rigs.
There was a ton of info on the ARB vs. OEM in this thread, including some of the stuff I posted above:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=113823&highlight=cable+lockers
The numbers I posted are assuming you use an E-locker, the cable locker is likely going to be even $200+ more than the E-locker conversion...
so Kurt,
what you saying is that for the front it is easier to put in a cable or e locker?
only long splined shafts?
I could get my 40 inner axles to a metal shop and have the get longer splines and install the oem locker?
I have a 120 series prado elocker the same as a 80 series rear?
and possible to use for a 40?
what you saying is that for the front it is easier to put in a cable or e locker?
only long splined shafts?
I could get my 40 inner axles to a metal shop and have the get longer splines and install the oem locker?
I have a 120 series prado elocker the same as a 80 series rear?
and possible to use for a 40?
That depends on your particular rig. US spec FJ4x's had semi-float rear ends which can't be fitted with an e-lock or cable lock differential. However their front end could with a custom or OEM shaft. The stock shaft cannot be modified. The labor involved really isn't much different for an ARB or an oem locker variant, by the time you pull down the front axle, pull the diff, etc it is all pretty 6's.
