But I've only owned it a month! (1 Viewer)

[andrewfarmer]

Any decent shop should be able to do a std head check and tell you within 2 mins if the head is cracked or not (if that is the supected coolant leak).
Other thing to check - wet patches on the carpet? - might be a heater core leak...

 

[hammer1]

what were the years and dates for the gas tank recall????
i took my VIN to the dealer, and they said there were never any recalls on the vehicle.

 

[gillti]

Hammer, you dealer isn't doing his or her homework. Check this link and it will give you more info:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=20463&highlight=recalls

there is also the seatbelt recall, I've seen mixed opinions on the board about them doing it, but it's free, and now my back seatbelts work again so it was worth it for me.

Andrew: no wet spots on the carpet: how do they do the "STD head check" (which, BTW, sounds a bit disgusting in the wrong context!)

tjg

 

[baldredhead]

as far as tools go....

try this link
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...OL&pid=00933246000&subcat=Mechanics+Tool+Sets

if that doesn't work look up this item on the sears website. 33246

it doesn't have some of the plier type toosl mentioned above but you will be covered on the wrench and socket side. i'd add some more extensions though, particurlarly the 1/2 and 1/4 inch drive sizes

it shows up as out of stock on the website, but i found some at my local sears. i think for the price it's hard to beat.


6 months or so ago i had reason to completely drain and redo the cooling system on my fj62. granted i have the 3FE motor, but i think the cooling system is about the same. i'm still adding coolant now and then.

 

[gillti]

I've been looking at that same set-up in the sears catalogue. I'm leaving now to check my local sears, right down the road. Thanks Red.

 

[gillti]

wait, before I run. UPDATE: Checked the oil cap this morning, a few drops of condensation there. I put about a quarter quart of coolant in, parked sideways on incline so the fill neck was up, jumped on the bumper to burp. Crossing my fingers.

thanks guys

 

[gillti]

Update #2: Did a couple of errands, lost some coolan due to overflow. I'm assuming that means it has been filled to the rim and the expansion due to heat makes it overflow (I'm showing my inexperience here I know) First stop, quite a bit, second stop, not as much. Not running hot (other than the fact its like 104 here today) but for once i am running where I should be as far as overheating goes.

tjg

 

[60wag]

Condensation in the oil cap isn't necessarily a big deal. Lots of short trips without allowing the oil to get hot enough to cook the water out can show condensation. Also if the PCV system isn't working correctly, the water vapor isn't vented well.

 

[gillti]

been a while since i visited this post. Things have been going well for a while. Intermittent redlining of the temp guage. Just got some great tools for my birthday. Things were going well.

However,

Just had to drive the cruiser into LA (Los Angeles--not the other one) and I hit really hot temperatures. boiling coolant and the works. Tons of lost power (from what I can tell) Had to be moving pretty quick (for a cruiser) to get it to stay off the red. So . . .

Am I looking at a fan clutch problem. What is the best test? I got a t-stat that is 192, should I go back and get a 180 temperature rating? as mentioned before have had the radiator cored and rodded and it should be okay.

When I overheated going home, I stopped and let it cool off, put in a 50/50 mixture and the rest of the way home it was fine. . .until I got off the freeway, then it shot back up. Oh yeah, it would also stall when I would lose speed quickly.

Any suggestions?
thanks for the wisdom.

 

[Tinker]

Sorry if this repeats any of the former - know of something that might help avoid a lot more pain.

There's a more conclusive test for blown head gasket/cracked head involving a German test instrument that you place on the radiator neck. It contains a blue liquid that turns green when exposed to CO2. If your shop doesn't have one, PM me & I'll find out what it's called.

The SBC in my '84 60 was losing coolant even before the water pump started leaking out the weep hole. I finally borrowed the magic tool from my next door neighbor at my shop & found out the head gaskets were OK (it's a problem with '98-99 Vortecs). Changed the water pump & all is good!

 

[Mike S]

Gilti

I think that you need a REALLY good cruiser mechanic.

Chances are that he is not at the Toyota dealership. I would not be driving this truck until I found and fixed the overheating problem. Not good for the motor.

Check the sticky thread at the top of this section to see if anyone has posted the name of a good cruiser mechanic in your area. If you can't find one local, go further afield. Gary at Mudrak does all my work, and I am happy to have him available.

M

 

[bajaman]

I suspected my fan clutch as well, not only does the damn thing run all the time in the winter becouse its cold and stiff, it robs milage and horsepower (it takes 3-4 hp to run your fan)
I took it out as well as the fan shroud and threw the works in the trash, picked up the largest electric fan I could make fit with an adjustable thermostate and it took and hour to install.
Not only does it work great, I wired it directly to the battery so it continues to run after my cruiser has been shut off. This is important as with a conventional, the temp. of your engine totally skyrockets soon as you turn the key off....leading to cracked heads, blown head gaskets...etc... So go electric all together cost under $200 bucks, better milage, better cooling (running or not) and no worries.

 

[gillti]

if the head is cracked wouldn't I have a mixture in the oil? I've got none of that. I would love to have the name of that stuff.

 

[bajaman]

if the head is cracked you might not get antifreeze in the oil, It could very well be going right out your exhaust as steam. Preasure test your cooling system and listen with a stethoscope for where the leak is.

 

[gillti]

had it pressure tested and had no loss of pressure. this is why I find it hard to believe it is cracked. however, I do need a thorough check by a decent mechanic. just wish I had more cash!

 

[bajaman]

well I'm all about doing it your self...that way you know your rig inside and out and dont get stuck in the middle of know where with out a clue how to fix things...
guess it helps I'm also a J-man welder and Millwright and manage an heavy equipment repair shop...but if you need any advise on how too's PM me and I'll walk you through the process in laymans terms. Hey its not that complicated...no electronics to deal with, pretty simple mechanically in the whole scheme of things, pretty much all you need is a complete set of metric wrenches, sockets and you can damn near take a cruiser completely apart. And theres lots of "old fashion ways" to trouble shoot problems with out going to a shop.

 

[60wag]

I'd definitely replace the fan clutch. Get a OE Toyota clutch, not an aftermarket.

Bajaman - the clutch fluid is opposite normal oil - its thin when cold so the fan slips and thick when hot so the fan works when you need it. This keeps the fan from drawing power "all Winter long."

 

[bajaman]

I know.....but mine was almost siezed right up ... real stiff and regardless was not working properly, looked at the OE too but still didnt solve the over heating problem in the desert in the summer when I shut it off. I swear by the electric one I put in (although a bit more expensive). The coolant doesnt circulate very well when shut off (for obvious reasons) but through natural convection it still contunues to circulate slowely.
there was also another factor...being up in canada....everytime I need parts....they gota come from California most times, and I'm kinda impatient with things like that.

 

[Bradley]

When does it heat up? Stoped, Slow moving, Driving?
They will all mean something different.
First off you stated it holds pressure so I assume there is not leak, a pin hole will make a difference, get a new clutch fan and thermo 192 is fine if that is factory temp and get new rad hoses to make sure your old ones are not colapsing and put a new mix of 50/50 in. See how that goes. i bet the issue is clutch fan. I also bet your head is not cracked. Is your system still loosing fluid? Your first one could have been just the burping of air in the system.

 

[macneill]

Sorry to hear about your problems. I too have owned my 60 for less than a month. So far, it's been great (knock on wood) I don't have neither the time, nor space (yet) to work on my own rigs. Yeah, the minor stuff, I can handle at a buddy's place for an afternoon. But he'll eventually want his driveway back.

I too agree with finding a good shop. I'm sure in So Cal, there's gotta be someone.

As far as the expenses, I'm also dealing with "hiding it" from the wife, yeah right.

Good luck!