on the 80. Where is the cheapest place to get one? There used to be some place on South St. in Jxn that sold them wholesale to the public. I may be able to patch the old one as it is split on the plastic top.
And please, don't try and spill that OEM garbage here. A quality reman will be fine. The truck has 270k and will soon be sold.
I had a top tank seam start to seap on my 97 just before the OCC event and priced a 93-94 replacement from Dan but it was $$. (The 93-94 is a three core metal unit instead of the alum/plastic 2 row core in the 96-97 but exact fit). I ended up ordering from Radiator Barn - something like 200-225 delivered to my door. Quality was fine and it fit great. My rig is quite happy with it. I'm just sayin...
Jes, first off, no way you'll fix that 15year old plastic... I chased mine for over a week, sealed it a handful of times only to have it continue splitting some place else.... it's old, replace it.
My boys over here at Franklin Tire and Auto got me mine for a little more than $200 and it was the cheapest out there. It's the same radiator everywhere just renamed or whatever, but it's all aluminum and fits really well. Alot of folks kept telling me i could get it for $99, but radiators have gone up drastically in the last few years, so you won't find it less than $200.
Explain why OH Wise One - OEM is roughly $700 comparied to roughly $225 for aftermarket. The OEM are not made by Toyota either. Just think about it...it's just a heat exchanger. Coolant flows through the tubes and air passing over same provides the cooling. Now, if there were a substantial difference in the materials used, core density, fin count, etc. to the point where the aftermarket unit was not up to the task of providing adequate cooling this would be a whole new story. Many of us are completely happy with the aftermarket three row core metal units ( and no BTW - I didn't use Parrier water to fill the thing either).
I would suggest that you take a close look at all other associated cooling components, water pump, clutch fan, belts and hoses, thermostat, etc. while you are in there. You should also replace the radiator cap at this time as well. Finally, I was interested to read that the temp gauge in the 80 series is not a true mechanical temp gauge. Basically it is set up to read cold, normal, and OH $hit and nothing in between. It can be modified to work "correctly" but I have not yet done this mod myself. Just something more to consider.
For a given space claim, more heat will be shed by a Cu heat exchanger than an Al one - and the Cu item will hang in there longer being more resistant to nasty elevated temps than the light weight puppy - whose strength, fatigue resistance, you name it... was never great to start w/, begins to roll off as temp climb... Just so ya know.
Yet another reason that '94 was the all time best year for 80's. s
Search out one of those after ya sell the 270K Al / plastic radiator one cause I wouldn't dump a premium Cu one in that truck either.
For a given space claim, more heat will be shed by a Cu heat exchanger than an Al one - and the Cu item will hang in there longer being more resistant to nasty elevated temps than the light weight puppy - whose strength, fatigue resistance, you name it... was never great to start w/, begins to roll off as temp climb... Just so ya know.
Yet another reason that '94 was the all time best year for 80's. s
Search out one of those after ya sell the 270K Al / plastic radiator one cause I wouldn't dump a premium Cu one in that truck either.
For a given space claim, more heat will be shed by a Cu heat exchanger than an Al one - and the Cu item will hang in there longer being more resistant to nasty elevated temps than the light weight puppy - whose strength, fatigue resistance, you name it... was never great to start w/, begins to roll off as temp climb... Just so ya know.
Yet another reason that '94 was the all time best year for 80's. s
Search out one of those after ya sell the 270K Al / plastic radiator one cause I wouldn't dump a premium Cu one in that truck either.
For a given space claim, more heat will be shed by a Cu heat exchanger than an Al one - and the Cu item will hang in there longer being more resistant to nasty elevated temps than the light weight puppy - whose strength, fatigue resistance, you name it... was never great to start w/, begins to roll off as temp climb... Just so ya know.
Yet another reason that '94 was the all time best year for 80's. s
Search out one of those after ya sell the 270K Al / plastic radiator one cause I wouldn't dump a premium Cu one in that truck either.
Thanks, I keep it light and lively.
No one understands why a white scion tC swerves through traffic only to honk and flag down a Land Cruiser these days... it just don't work like when i was driving around in Cattywampus, so I'm doing mods to it to "fit in".
