busted ignition

scottm

 
 
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Mar 27, 2003
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Made a new link from 1/2" stainless steel. Here is the small end turned down to 1/4" diameter, 1/2" long. Put it down the hole to see if it would keep the steering lock pawl in the unlock position, and to see how far it would stick into the plastic switch. I used a red marker to mark the part that stuck through.
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scottm

 
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
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Below the bridge
Left a little of that round post round, about 0.1", to act as a bearing keeping the shaft centered. Same as the original. Ground the rest of the post into a flat to go into the electrical switch.

Turned the other end down to about 0.35" diameter, then sanded it flat to fit in to the keylock slot. Test fit, seems to work. The flat ends are 90° from each other.

The end that goes into the bottom of the case will be the bearing, rubbing against the soft cast aluminum. There is a short round part before it becomes the flat tab going into the plastic switch. It needs to be smooth there and on the end of the 1/2" part. The lower end of the rod will have the steering lock pawl riding on it, so that needs to be smooth as well. Lube it all up well.
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scottm

 
 
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Below the bridge
Lube with white grease, drop it down into the case, then grab it with pliers and fish it into the hole at the bottom while fighting the steering lock pawl. Turn to AUX key position. I couldn't get the tab to go into the key switch when I slid the key switch in, ended up taking the white plastic switch back off and grabbing the end with 4LN Vice Grips. That allowed me to wiggle the shaft around to get the tab into the key switch. Remember the key switch has to be in AUX to go into the case.
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scottm

 
 
Joined
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Rough drawing, very rough, and the ends have to be 90° from each other. 4.1" from the wide tab end to the bearing surface at the bottom end, 4.6" overall length. And what is that white connector?? Decided it was not used.

So now I don't have a steering lock, which I like. I also don't have the auto steering wheel retract when shutting down, which I also like. The ignition works like normal otherwise, no rattles, no looseness. Drove home, stopped for gas, nothing unusual. Giving it back to the wife now.
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Joined
Jun 13, 2009
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Seattle, WA
Nice work Macgyver! I’m impressed you were able to get it to run. I had the same thing happen to me a while back and I was literally in the middle of nowhere (Salina, UT). Total hassle and a long tow.

According to the Lexus service guy, the replacement ignition shaft is made a lot better than the original. Unfortunately, it almost seems up there as PM given the fail rates and how screwed you can end up being if it goes on you as the part has to come from Toyota.

I like the prototype idea too!
 
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Apr 18, 2017
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Virginia
Not to keep this saga going but just as another data point, this also just happened on my 2003 LX470 with 93,000 miles.

-In attempting to save a few bucks I ordered just the cam shaft that several folks have mentioned on this and other threads on Amazon Bross BSP34. At $32 shipped I figured it was worth the risk. I took my ignition apart - big thanks to #MaineLX470 (post 193), #parnoren (Post 33), & #Topoguide (Post 177) for instructions. Once I got my old piece out using pieces of hangar, the two shafts don't match. I'll be returning this piece and ordered the whole assembly (PN 45280-60610) online at McGeorge Toyota in Richmond for $211 +shipping.
-Picture for reference (I think I uploaded it correctly, this is my first post), the stock (broken) piece has the blade still attached, the Amazon piece is to the right for reference to save anyone else the trouble. Contacted the seller and they are very responsive but they don't carry the correct part. I asked them to stop advertising that it fits these years LC.

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Joined
Jun 9, 2016
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Philadelphia
I also don't have the auto steering wheel retract when shutting down, which I also like.
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I love the work around but this part would bother me. Any idea why the retract wouldnt work? I allready had mine break on me but am always trying to talk me jeep friends to come over to the LC side like i did and this would be a #2 mod (after heater Ts)
 

scottm

 
 
Joined
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Below the bridge
I love the work around but this part would bother me. Any idea why the retract wouldnt work? I allready had mine break on me but am always trying to talk me jeep friends to come over to the LC side like i did and this would be a #2 mod (after heater Ts)
Yes, there is a sensor just at the back (closest to driver) of the housing that senses a cam of the fragile shaft when the key is in the "off" position. That tells the steering column to tilt up and retract. My steering column had been groaning quietly every time for some time, it was going to fail eventually, and then I'd have no adjust. That would suck more than losing the auto-retract, and the groan was annoying/embarrassing. So I'm glad to be rid of that feature. I think it can be programmed out too, or just snip that sensor out.
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2016
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Tulsa, OK
Thus just happened to me today, luckily in my driveway. I guess I'll dig in tomorrow, being Sunday and see if I can get it to run without a part in hand until sometime this week. @scottm have you considered selling these? I don't have a lathe.
 
Joined
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Tulsa, OK
Got it '''hotwired" for now. I think if you know how to pulled this apart, all you need for a trail fix are the hand tools to get the dash apart, a long enough flathead for the key, and a sleeve big enough to hold open the steering wheel lock, and allow the flathead to pass through.

I'm going to see if I can replicate the stainless shaft @scottm made. I'm also gonna see if I can figure out how to eliminate the transponder deal. I tried jumping the wires that connect to it, it must be sending a specific signal when your key is near. I have an EE buddy, maybe he'll like the challenge.

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abuck99

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Nov 8, 2015
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For those that broke their ignition, was the steering wheel locked in place or free when you turned the key and the cam broke?

Wondering if this failure is partly due to the relationship between the ignition interlock and locked steering wheel and trying to switch the ignition on with out first trurning the wheel slightly to take the pressure off the ignition interlock?
 
Joined
May 4, 2015
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206
Location
Denton, TX
178k on a 2000 LX and I'm fighting to get the broken part out. I'm thinking I'm just going to pull the column and drill the anti theft bolts.

Biggest problem I'm having is after being frustrated I pulled the complete white assembly off the back and pushed on the broken part. It is now sitting sideways in the tube and I can't get it out.


I pulled the whole ignition off and was able to fish the broken part out.

Are people buying the whole assembly or just the broken part?
 
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Joined
Oct 26, 2016
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Tulsa, OK
My broken bit is just the end tip... It's stuck down in there, there's nothing to grab. I may try epoxy on the end of a pick, or removing the white ignition switch and pushing it out...bleh
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2016
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I was able to get a long air gun down into the barrel and blew the broken tip out, I tried to catch it with the shopvac but it ended up in the footwell. Anyway, got the replacement shaft in and she's running per normal. I want a better long term fix, it seems these shafts break in like 4 or 5 different spots, so there is no obvious weakspot to fatten up, they are just crap metal. I'm going to mess around with replicating the OEM shaft with something else, maybe like @scottm. Now that it's fixed, it will be a bit, in the middle of a remodel at the house.

I also wanted to add a note since I read through the entire thread and still installed the shaft 180 out.

Once apart and ready to insert new shaft:
  • Set the white ignition switch to horizontal with a screwdriver, this will you to know the seat location for the shaft after it is inserted and re-clocked later.
  • Loosen the white ignition switch at the back of the barrel, this will allow you to re-clock the shaft one you get the key past the key way at the bottom. Will need to be backed almost all the way off.
  • Start shaft with key at 12 o'clock and slide down until it stops (hitting the steering wheel lock)
  • Rotate the shaft counter-clockwise where the key is @ 9 o'clock while pressing in, it should then drop down past the keyed hole ( you can test by rotating off of 9 and try to pull it out, the key should keep it in the barrel
  • Now rotate the shaft to set the key at the 3 o'clock position it should set the tip/blade end of the shaft horizontal and allow you to seat the white ignition switch.
  • Tighten the white ignition switch
  • Clock the front blase to the 11/5 o'clock position, set the key tumbler to match this allows the locking tab to be depressed.
  • Slide the key tumbler over the shaft and it should seat all the way and set the locking tab at the bottom.
  • Re-install the ring and test start the truck, make sure the steering wheel lock is un-locked when started, if it locks you have the blade 180 out.

Hope this helps someone. Keep a steel sleeve, like I posted above, in your tool kit and a long flat-blade screwdriver for the trails.
 
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Joined
May 4, 2015
Messages
206
Location
Denton, TX
Super strange issue. Fished out the broken piece, replaced it. Put everything back together and now the truck won't start. It turns over, but its acting like it has no fuel.

Is there a fuel shutoff in our vehicles that I might have missed?

2000 LX
 
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