It replaces from the rear and is a very small bulb .... same size as the one that illuminates the surround around the cigar lighter.
I messed up my HVAC controls while replacing mine and only recently repaired them. My suggestion for accessing the bulb is to completely strip the center stack of the dash removing
- bezel around the radio
- radio
- ashtray
- lower bezel
Do not attempt to remove the HVAC controls. Doing so will drive you insane and make you look for the nearest dynamite.
Slide the fan switch knob off, pull the handles off the three levers of the HVAC controls, and remove the faceplate over the controls. This will reveal the housing of the controls and you will be able to see where the bulb is (about 1.5 inches away from the fan switch). Now for the fun part, you will need to feel for the bulb holder and gently rotate it about a quarter turn (clockwise if I recall correctly) to disengage the socket then snake it out far enough that you can replace the bulb. The bulb is available in The U.S. and is part number 90981-11022.
What makes the process a PITA is that there is no slack in the cables that are attached to the HVAC controls, nor is there any slack in the wiring harness of the bulb socket. Apparently, when I first did mine a month or so ago, I tweaked the controls a bit while trying to move/twist the unit so I could see the bulb which resulted in the retainer for the temperature lever to pop off. Luckily, I found the retainer when I went back in several weeks later and avoided the fight that removing the controls will be.
Be patient and gentle and you should be OK. If you break the controls, there is a gentleman in GA that can repair them ....