I like this idea. What was the shipping cost on the L angle?
Built some drawers... Didn't use drawer slides
- Thread starter thatcabledude
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Great job, they look fantastic!
We use the same sort of stuff for our bed slides in our work trucks but simply use 2 1/2" channels on the bottom of the drawer and on the base, keeps it supported underneath and centered because they interlock. 3 drawers, full length of the bed, full of everything from wire, to swagelok fittings, to 1/2" drive tools, etc
The full size ones are a bit of a stretch to open but also weigh quite a bit.
I was planning on using the exact same for my build.
We use the same sort of stuff for our bed slides in our work trucks but simply use 2 1/2" channels on the bottom of the drawer and on the base, keeps it supported underneath and centered because they interlock. 3 drawers, full length of the bed, full of everything from wire, to swagelok fittings, to 1/2" drive tools, etc
The full size ones are a bit of a stretch to open but also weigh quite a bit.
I was planning on using the exact same for my build.
- Thread starter
- #23
I don't remember.... I did have them cut the 10' section in half to ship UPS instead of frieght though.
That makes more sense for sure. That's why I was asking.
You would be better off sourcing that locally, but speedymetal.com has ok prices
Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G
- Thread starter
- #26
We're talking plastic here....
Oh yea my bad....
Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G
Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G
- Thread starter
- #28
So after almost 2 months I finally took the time and finished these suckers!
- Sprayed with Tan Al's Liner ordered from Hefty Fab.
- Stained and varnished drawer faces.
- Installed D-ring tie downs.
- Installed inverter and wired to outlet on rear.
- Made 12" sub box. (After I sprayed the drawers and wasted the 1/2 gallon
Al's left over)
- Installed aluminum angle on top edge.
- Applied IH8MUD decal
- Sprayed with Tan Al's Liner ordered from Hefty Fab.
- Stained and varnished drawer faces.
- Installed D-ring tie downs.
- Installed inverter and wired to outlet on rear.
- Made 12" sub box. (After I sprayed the drawers and wasted the 1/2 gallon
Al's left over)
- Installed aluminum angle on top edge.
- Applied IH8MUD decal
- Thread starter
- #29
Some more pictures....
I also included a pic of my new removable trash receptacle I fashioned from a Klein Tools "nut bag".
I also included a pic of my new removable trash receptacle I fashioned from a Klein Tools "nut bag".
Looks awesome, man!
Great design. Very clean and functional by the looks of it. I may need to keep this in mind when I start my own.
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2010
- Threads
- 16
- Messages
- 124
- Location
- San Francisco, CA
- Website
- www.overlandbound.com
The finish is awesome! Tough too I bet!
Slick! Nice build.
The only drawback to using this stuff vs metal drawer slides is being able to lock the draw out and/or retaining the drawer. You didn't mention that, so I thought to suggest that an angle attached at the rear bottom of the drawer could act as a retainer. This assumes that you get enough drop at the front of the drawer fully extended so that the top rear of the drawer will clear the front of the deck edge. This would then allow you to lift the back up and out of the skeleton of drawer assembly.
Having been in a couple of stucks at extreme angles, I worry about that happening again, so that was one reason I went with the drawer slides. But all you really need is a simple retainer to obviate that issue with your design, which would be in keeping with your economical, but very effective design philosophy.
The only drawback to using this stuff vs metal drawer slides is being able to lock the draw out and/or retaining the drawer. You didn't mention that, so I thought to suggest that an angle attached at the rear bottom of the drawer could act as a retainer. This assumes that you get enough drop at the front of the drawer fully extended so that the top rear of the drawer will clear the front of the deck edge. This would then allow you to lift the back up and out of the skeleton of drawer assembly.
Having been in a couple of stucks at extreme angles, I worry about that happening again, so that was one reason I went with the drawer slides. But all you really need is a simple retainer to obviate that issue with your design, which would be in keeping with your economical, but very effective design philosophy.
- Thread starter
- #34
Thanks for the compliments guys! I admit, I'm pretty proud of how they turned out. I'm no carpenter- my wood working experience comes from lots of skateboard ramp bulding as a teen and home remodeling.
Still planing on lining the inside with Hydro-Turf. I thought I had some black leftovers but turned out all I have is red.
greentruck- I thought about the drawers from coming completely out if left open in a extreme angle and hopefully won't have to access them in that situation. Recovery stuff is going on the open space behind the back seat. I really didn't want to have to open the tailgate to get a strap if the ass-end was in deepish water.
Still planing on lining the inside with Hydro-Turf. I thought I had some black leftovers but turned out all I have is red.
greentruck- I thought about the drawers from coming completely out if left open in a extreme angle and hopefully won't have to access them in that situation. Recovery stuff is going on the open space behind the back seat. I really didn't want to have to open the tailgate to get a strap if the ass-end was in deepish water.
Yeah, if you have your recovery stuff up top, you'll likely never need the tailgate open on an incline. That's how I've got mine set-up also, the serious recovery gear in a locker accessible from the middle top. I do keep jumper cables and a strap in the drawer, mostly for quick help for others. I haven't needed to use a winch for myself for several decades now...knock on wood
That looks so good you changed my mind. I'm varnishing my drawer fronts instead of carpeting.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #37
Gives them some sophistication. LOL!
So it's been over a year since you did the Al's Liner and I'm wondering how it's held up on top of wood. I'm assuming you've thrown the usual mix of boxes, bags, camping gear, etc on top of it. Has the bond between the liner and wood remained solid? Any chipping?
- Thread starter
- #39
It is solid as a rock! Great stuff. The only way it is gonna come off would be by removing the top ply of the plywood!
No chipping. I definitely recommend covering the top rearmost edge of the drawers with aluminum angle like I did. It is scratched and gouged so it has been doing its job of protecting the woods edge.
No chipping. I definitely recommend covering the top rearmost edge of the drawers with aluminum angle like I did. It is scratched and gouged so it has been doing its job of protecting the woods edge.
Good to hear this. I have to redo my simple set up because the plywood has de-laminated from a water spill. My existing covering is indoor/outdoor carpet, but I like the look of the liner better. I have aluminum angle on the back edge like you and it works great.