bryan89's Interior Illumination Project

[bryan89]

Man I really need to do something like those LEDs for my dome light. There are no interior lights at all right now. The only light inside at all comes from the GPS on the dash and the radio which only has the effect of blinding you.

yeah the leds make a huge difference. and they are drop in. really high level reward to work ratio there. lol

figured you would have all the cool oem stuff from different vehicles, working at a dealership and all.

 

[Sam Stewart]

yeah the leds make a huge difference. and they are drop in. really high level reward to work ratio there. lol

figured you would have all the cool oem stuff from different vehicles, working at a dealership and all.

Yeah I'm sure I could fab something up from another vehicle. I'm trying to keep my build on the cheap since its just a wheeler tho. I think the LED is a much easier and cheaper option.

 

[bryan89]

went back and added wiring diagram with diode to part 2

 

[chefyota4x4]

Hey Bryan..... Bookmarked and shared on Yotatech with around 20 people, already! lol... I'm not on this site very often... Just happened to start with Yotatech.com... BUT, when growing the proverbial "cranial database" on 'Yota-Stuff's', one needs to branch out and get a general consensus, etc. This thread, plain and simple, is FANTASTIC! Great write up!

I've always been decent with wiring.... ONCE I DIVE IN... But even now, after reading this a couple times... i get stuck at certain points and go back to work or something, ahhaha... I WILL GET IT! Just have to read through a couple more times so I can do MULTIPLE things at once, ya know? (want to add the wiper motor cover dome, then another deck lamp, then wire them in all at once... WHILE adding my inverter to to the inside of my panel, etc., etc., ya know?)...

Reading this, then 4crawlers cheap trick on the deck light mod... It seems you've wired it differently, for sure. Am I understanding it right, in that, when YOU wired it up you did so to the 'lock safety' mechanism... so that when the 'door' was unlocked in back, the light would automatically come on(yet still be controllable as to 'on-door-off' independantly?) Sorry man, like I said, I get spaghetti soup going in my head when I start to THINK this stuff out, lol.... let alone looking at literal wires, etc.

I'll read back through, then I'll report back. So far, I added these to the 1st Gen 4Runner Maplight.......

They're NOT really much brighter than the standard ones.. BUT, they use WAYYYYY less power... And; Instead of installing the 2nd Gen 4Runner maplight kit... I'm going to go with the PU Rear view dome light, in front of my stock 1st Gen 4Runner Maplight... This will give me plenty of light up front, for my needs/negate needing to mod much at all...... And I kinda like the stock maplight, just personally, as it gives me no 'in yo face' factor while driving down the 395hwy and looking at something, ya know? lol... Those lights I listed above are a direct fit, so just in case anyone wants to have something for their stock 1st Gen 4Runner map light... there ya go. :great:

I put in the 3022's from superbrightleds in the dome and door markers.... WOW, just amazing light! Some before and afters........

Before;

After;

Before;

After;

Did the single deck lamp one, too;

Before;

After;

I concur... It's just NOT nearly enough... For grocery's, etc., .. sure. But for camping/etc., NOPE, lol... Thus, the plan to add the second deck lamp on the other panel and dome on the wiper cover

********************

I'll be back and taking more 'hard notes' and print outs from this thread, .... cuz it rocks! lol.

Thanks again, Bryan... You did a great job, seriously!

Mark

 

[Sam Stewart]

Hey Mark. Which 3022 did you order from Superbright? I just ordered one for my first gen. I got the one that has the 4 leds. It was the brightest one they offer and a 4 of 5 on the scale they use. I'm not looking for anything like daylight but my interior dome might as well not be on at all like it is now.

 

[chefyota4x4]

Hey Lowe, Wutup?

Here's the 3022 I ordered, ....sorry. Most likely the same one you got. >>>>>>

There is another option, at Oznium... I believe the 2x2 panel WILL fit, width wise... And it's supposedly SUPER wide beam angle and yet not blinding like a flashlight... Plus, it's only 4MM thick or something? They also make 1x1.5" size and 3 others...... maybe even a 1x5"? (which would fit PERFECTLY in the 2nd Gen 4Runner Rear wiper cover/speaker panel-Deck Lamp)>>> That one looks like this>>>

That ^^^^ has WAY more options in bulbs... Simply because it's a 36MM festoon.. So you can get 6led festoon, 12led-360* Beam angle festoons to bound off the reflector too, etc. It's a POP IN type.... And while it wouldn't fit in the wiper motor cover.... I've cosidered putting 2 of them in, either side, in place of the deck lamps(just cut the holes out with a dremmel a lil more, and VOILA, pop right in. THEN, I could have all 3(2 like the above picture, mounted in the panels and a dome light like Bryan did) all on the Door/On/Off switching gig, ya know? (if I can ever figure out the wiring, hahaha) ......

The Oznium one would be like this.........

This is their site... Just look under "CAR" and in Dome LED's.........

http://www.oznium.com/thin-led-domelight

Only thing.... 24.95$? EEEEEEEK! LOL. I could buy 4 of the 4-led 3022's for that... BUT, they would probably be brighter... Just wow... It better last forEVERRRRR! lol.

 

[chefyota4x4]

AHHHHh! grrr! lol... I posted everything up and clicked "post quick reply".... POOOF, gone! Rolling my eyes as we speak, haha.

OK, so, these I used........

There ARE other options,.... some brighter, some wider beam angle... But REALLY? I will soon have 2 of these up front... One facing forward to driver passenger seats... other on the rear view dome...pointing toward me. NO WAY could I need more than that, unless I'm planning on building circuit boards.... and even then, it would probably do! hahhaa.

I also picked up these, from Pick-Your-Part... They go in the rear wiper motor and speaker cover in the rear of the 2nd Gen 4runners..... The thing I like about these is that they hold a 36MM festoon... giving you MANY more options on LED's, 6LED and even 12led, with 6 on each side for 360* beam angle...(I returned this one for a MUCH cleaner lens one in Gray, my color.... But to give you the idea)....

i will probably try to install these in place of the stock deck lamps(cut out with dremmel... I have a spare set of PRISTINE panels, so I don't care much about these, as they have speaker holes, etc.)... The reason I would do that, Lowe, is, that the 2nd Gen Deck lamps like that have "Door/On/Off" on them... this would allow me to tie them all to the front doors, rear lock like Bryan did and so forth, while keeping the "OFF and constant HOT- 'ON' " as well.... Maybe I have that all wacked out, lol.... Bryan or someone can clarify for me, (maybe on yotatech too)... as I'm not really a wiring dude... I just do a good job of it once I figure it out. Wired up all my spot lights on the rig with a clean install/relay/switch, and even added a Blue Seas type Marine Fuse Block under the hood. I'll also be wiring in one of these, a GM Retractable engine bay light with 20FT of chord and a reel:great: >>>>

For this, while it is already decently bright... I'd rather, once again, do LOWER POWER USAGE, ya know? ... SO, I was looking at these from Superbrightleds........

Lil pricey for a Ba15s Bulb... at 20$ or so... BUT, at 220Lumen? WOW, I could DEFINITELY build a nuclear fission reactor with the help of someone like Bryan and this lighting! hahaha.

 

[bryan89]

chef,
to clarify your original question, i have my rear dome light (the one mounted under the wiper cover) wired so the factory On/door/off functions with the rear tailgate opening...

in other words, i have a constant hot from the "Dome" circuit at the fuse box run back there for the on position that is wired straight to the light. the other half of the circuit is grounded to the wiper case (which is grounded through the harness to the truck) for the "ON" position.

The "Off" position just leaves the circuit open ended.

to get the "door" effect, I am basically switching ground with the tailgate lock detection switch...

there is a two position switch in the tailgate latch on the driver side.. when the tailgate is opened it is grounded to let the rear window computer to not allow the window to operate..
i tap off that logic to complete the ground for my "door" position.

open the tailgate, the light comes on. close the tailgate, the light goes off. just like the other doors.


......edit: just went back and looked at the wiring diagram on page 1. the diode stops current from finding its way to ground through the back door warning switch when the door is shut. (since you have to unlock the window before you can roll it down and open the tailgate) without the diode, the rear dome light would stay on until you shut the tailgate AND locked the tailgate. the diode is basically a electrical check valve...electrons go in but not out...LOL

 

[chefyota4x4]

Thank you, Maestro Bryan, electrical GURU!

chef,
to clarify your original question, i have my rear dome light (the one mounted under the wiper cover) wired so the factory On/door/off functions with the rear tailgate opening...

in other words, i have a constant hot from the "Dome" circuit at the fuse box run back there for the on position that is wired straight to the light. the off is grounded to the wiper case (which is grounded through the harness to the truck)

to get the "door" effect, I am basically switching ground with the tailgate lock detection switch...

there is a two position switch in the tailgate latch on the driver side.. when the tailgate is opened it is grounded to let the rear window computer to not allow the window to operate..
i tap off that logic to complete the ground for my "door" position.

open the tailgate, the light comes on. close the tailgate, the light goes off. just like the other doors.


......edit: just went back and looked at the wiring diagram on page 1. the diode stops current from finding its way to ground through the back door warning switch when the door is shut. (since you have to unlock the window before you can roll it down and open the tailgate) without the diode, the rear dome light would stay on until you shut the tailgate AND locked the tailgate. the diode is basically a electrical check valve...electrons go in but not out...LOL

HOLY CRAPOLI! HAHAHA... thank you for the / Tutorial, so much, Bryan!

Ok, ..... so I'm STILL a lil confused... BUT, I'm finally getting this. THE DIODE comment at the very end? I HAD NO IDEA that's what you meant(I must not have read it carefully enough any of those 20 times! hahaha... I literally kept thinking "resistor" when reading that... Which I've used many times to check my Multi-Meter for accuracy, etc.... Just wasn't clicking!) OK, sooooooo, ... I'll read back, just to see if there's a picture of where you wired in the diode. (I'M TERRIBLE WITH WIRING DIAGRAMS! ...wait, I got it... I think..... ...... NOPE ....... ) haha.

Enough smiley's, I know, I know... Sorry Bryan.

***************************************

So, lemme just write this out as I understand it so far.......

1.) Wire the Deck and Added Dome light to 'constant hot' via the 'Dome Fuse in the kick panel'........
...a. Can I get there by running the dome wiring down through the shell and out where the shell/body harness meet?)
...b. Can I use an 'add-a-line' fuse jacker type thing like this? >>>

2.) I switch(?) ground position on the 'Safety Door Lock' thingymadoer in the rear? (I will go back through your write up/pics/tutorial and even diagrams , hehe... See if I TOTALLY get it, then come back here)... You do have a pic of that in the thread, right? I just repaired the Gate Latch/Lock Cables in my Build thread on Yotatech... Lots of pics.. and I mentioned how you said "You tap into the Lock Safety thingymadoohickie'... in other words of course, lol.... I think I said, "I believe Bryan89 of iH8mud was speaking of this wire.... Only one blue(or maybe it was green?) wire I can see here... I'm just hoping it's not the wiring cluster/connector behind the glass".......

3.) I want to add a "Gotta GO, RIGHT NOW" constant hot switch in the rear for the back window, allowing it to always go down... I think I have that down as far as how to ground it out in front on the console front chassis screw mounting hole..... What I'm wondering is this; If I do that, will it effect the "Safety Lock Switch" being able to 'enable the 'DOOR' portion of that rear Dome Light Mod? .......( I will have a switch in back, too, for easier escape when sleeping back there.... Which I do 90% of the time when camping..... Still have to figure out how to wire that in... But I figure I could just tap into the back pins of the connector, then heat shrink some wiring to the back SPDT(?) switch(I have a spare "UP/DOWN" back window switch I'll be wiring into the panel behind the roll bar for the 'less likely to be depressed by gear' factor.

**********************************************

I know it's somewhat 'fronting out' of myself in doing so... But I gotta be honest.. when it comes to diagrams and even pictures of factory 'spaghetti soup clusters' of wiring, .... my brain just starts poot'n! lol. THAT LAST POST REALLLLLLLLLY helped me understand it more, Bryan! I'm taking notes of what "I GET" so far, lol... Then I'll read through again and post back, ok? THANKS AGAIN, MAN!

 

[chefyota4x4]

PS> You'd said, "Not that I'll find an SR5 Maplight in the junkyard anyways.. Work with what you got, right?"... and I TOTALLY agree! You'd probably not want to do the SR5 one now that you have DAYLIGHT in there... BUT, as I think I'd said, "I DO like the fact that it's more of a 'lap light' that doesn't effect driving in ANY way... It actually adds safety IMHO because I don't have to fish for something longer than necessary anddddddd, .... I don't have to turn on a bright light. BUT, I DO love that mod and have shared it with 20 people already on Yotatech! haha... Couple have done it already and couple more will be doing it.

Anyway... wanted to share what I found at a Pick-Your-Part in Wilmington, CA the other week.......

YEAH, that's what I said! lol.... 3 DAYS those sat there... I know because I'd not looked too far into it...

Another one was right across from it... Blue, CHERRY Blueberry Toyota Blue Paint... I grabbed the L-trim and badge pillars and rear door seal and front door window seals and a PRISTINE Jack and Handle, ... rear seat panel 'pockets', roll bar pad, rock guard plastic pieces front of the rear wheel well, every switch in the things, a PERFECT Fender and more... Got an incredible deal on it all as I'm always seeming to leave at closing and they're like, "what's that? whatever, clock, g-1 trims, etc., etc".... Best time to go... then just guilt them with "OH MANNNNn, really? That's too much, I'm sorry man, lemme put it over here"... ALMOST ALWAYS tell me, "Ok, how about >>> " .. hehehee.

I'm probably selling these both.. but my point was that they ARE out there, even in the PYParts, ya know? Just gotta JUMP on em when they come up! lol. (Trust me, I know how hard it is back east and down south at times.. I'm sure SC is a LOT Different in the 'availability ratio' than L.A., CA, .... I can bet.. )

 

[bryan89]

see responses below in red.

HOLY CRAPOLI! HAHAHA... thank you for the / Tutorial, so much, Bryan!


So, lemme just write this out as I understand it so far.......

1.) Wire the Deck and Added Dome light to 'constant hot' via the 'Dome Fuse in the kick panel'........ yes. this circuit already provides the 12 volts to your door lights / map lights / dome lights etc and when you open doors, toyota switches ground to illuminate the light.
...a. Can I get there by running the dome wiring down through the shell and out where the shell/body harness meet?)
i assume you mean wire routing? yes, if you look in post #10 on page one, I routed the wires for my rear dome light down the side of the fiberglass top, right along side the wiring for the wiper motor. then when i got to the metal cab transition, I added a jack for removing the top.
...b. Can I use an 'add-a-line' fuse jacker type thing like this? >>>


you could use one of these things, but I personally despise them. they take up a lot of space. so you wont be able to put the fuse panel cover back on likely. also, they are a dead give away that its not factory.
additionally, if you remove the blade receptacle for the dome circuit (see second pic on post #4 on page 1) then there is a place to tap off the dome circuit on the back of the fuse panel. this way, once installed and wires routed through original harness, you will never be able to tell it was added after market...which i like.
2.) I switch(?) ground position on the 'Safety Door Lock' thingymadoer in the rear? (I will go back through your write up/pics/tutorial and even diagrams , hehe... See if I TOTALLY get it, then come back here)... You do have a pic of that in the thread, right? I just repaired the Gate Latch/Lock Cables in my Build thread on Yotatech... Lots of pics.. and I mentioned how you said "You tap into the Lock Safety thingymadoohickie'... in other words of course, lol.... I think I said, "I believe Bryan89 of iH8mud was speaking of this wire.... Only one blue(or maybe it was green?) wire I can see here... I'm just hoping it's not the wiring cluster/connector behind the glass".......

yes. the rear door lock detection switch does switch ground. this is the logic that you will want to tap off from to complete your circuit for the dome light. according to my wiring diagram (its kinda hard to see) but its a "G-R" or green wire with red stripe that you will need to tap into. when in the "open" position it connects with the "W-B" or white black wire, which is tapped into ground on the left side of the wiring diagram.

the key is to make sure that your tap for the "door" part of the light is in between the diode (black triangle) and the lock detection switch. if the tap is on the wrong side of the diode, the light will remain on until you shut and lock the back door.

3.) I want to add a "Gotta GO, RIGHT NOW" constant hot switch in the rear for the back window, allowing it to always go down... I think I have that down as far as how to ground it out in front on the console front chassis screw mounting hole..... What I'm wondering is this;
i have a writeup on this as well, if you havent seen it...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...argo-area-mounted-window-switch-write-up.html
I use an OEM switch and make a factory plug and play harness. no cutting. no chopping. as close as to how toyota would have done it if they thought of it as I could get.

If I do that, will it effect the "Safety Lock Switch" being able to 'enable the 'DOOR' portion of that rear Dome Light Mod?
not real sure what you are asking here...mine both work flawlessly right now...and the rear mounted window switch becomes inoperable with the tailgate open....
.......( I will have a switch in back, too, for easier escape when sleeping back there.... Which I do 90% of the time when camping..... Still have to figure out how to wire that in... But I figure I could just tap into the back pins of the connector, then heat shrink some wiring to the back SPDT(?) switch(I have a spare "UP/DOWN" back window switch I'll be wiring into the panel behind the roll bar for the 'less likely to be depressed by gear' factor.

**********************************************

I know it's somewhat 'fronting out' of myself in doing so... But I gotta be honest.. when it comes to diagrams and even pictures of factory 'spaghetti soup clusters' of wiring, .... my brain just starts poot'n! lol. THAT LAST POST REALLLLLLLLLY helped me understand it more, Bryan! I'm taking notes of what "I GET" so far, lol... Then I'll read through again and post back, ok? THANKS AGAIN, MAN!

I understand..its what we are here for..to help each other. If you want to try and learn how to read a diagram..i suggest starting with the FSM. at the beginning of the wiring section, the manual breaks down all of the notation and symbols and what not. then, once you figure out that the wiring schematics are laid out with all 12 volts across the top and all grounds across the bottom, with the various loads in the middle, its kind of easy. think of it like water trough pipes..it helps me, as I am a mechanical guy, not electrical.

Hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions.

 

[notsomint65]

way to go bryan...that lighting does suck from the factory, i'm lazy enough that i just carried a couple flashlights, one in the console, one in the bed compartment.
i'm jealous

 

[bryan89]

Thanks for the kind words notsomint..
i enjoy tinkering and the general challenge of making improvements that the "average non toyota guy" can't tell aren't standard factory options.

my latest project is an OEM electric locker install. I am using the oem locker, computer, and switch from a tacoma and mostly oem wiring harness.
i only have a few loose ends to tie up and then there will be a write up for it as well, but i have to field a leaky windshield problem first...

 

[chefyota4x4]

Hey Bryan! Sup man? Well.... I responded on my Yotatech thread, .. so if you get a chance to respond, I could use a lil help on one thing at least, lol..........

Basically, I took a pic of the tailgate inners so you could show me whereeeeeeee in the heck I tie this diode and wire in? (It's NO HUGE HURRY, ... I've not done anything but mount the light in the cover... BUT, it came out clean, THANKS for the ideas! ............ Here's the pic of the tailgate...

If I get this right, wherever that point is that I tap in... IT'S INNNNNN the Tailgate, between those two switches... (I'm guessing near the latch)... BUT, it would really be very grateful if you could just toss that pic into "PAINT" or something... ??? Maybe throw a dot in there and arrow saying, "HEY, numbskull... it's right there >>>> " hahaha.

Anyway, ... yes, like you said, I'm doing LOTS of things at once, if possible, including mounting my 10" JL.... I actually plan to use the box, cutting it, or making a new enclosure to some degree, then wedging that between the roll bar and new .41" Panel of birch.... Think it's 8 Layer, which I went for so I could carve and chip away at spots to clear the switch retaining clips and the 2nd Gen REAR dome lights that will replace my Deck Lamps....(Hey, you got me thinking, man! lol... I wanted ALL 3 of my rear lights to work off that door/off/on factor.... AND, independently as well. And, the 2nd Gen dome lights are 3 wire/pins... So, I have one wire to DOOR in the tailgate with the others... One wire for "ON" to 'body ground' and the other constant 12V to dome circuit... I'll just join them all into one wire connector and then into the spare harness pin holes... Shouldn't be a problem, since all 3 will pull around 4Watts.

Anyway, any input on that would be awesome! Here's another pic of that Driver sides LATCH of which I replaced the cables with 2nd Gen non rubberized/rubber booted cable set up... (WAY BETTER, btw!)....

Driver side latch and wire where it starts............

 

[chefyota4x4]

PS> the second pic is BEFORE I cleaned up the tailgate, inside and out... hahaha... First pic is after cleaned up some.

Thanks again, Bryan... I have more ideas, as I just mentioned, that I'd LOVE to get your thoughts on, later... Just don't wanna cluster this thread up any more than I have, so I appreciate you commenting on my Yotatech Thread like you did

 

[chefyota4x4]

PS> the second pic is BEFORE I cleaned up the tailgate, inside and out... hahaha... First pic is after cleaned up some.

Thanks again, Bryan... I have more ideas, as I just mentioned, that I'd LOVE to get your thoughts on, later... Just don't wanna cluster this thread up any more than I have, so I appreciate you commenting on my Yotatech Thread like you did

 

[onemanarmy]

good stuff

 

[chefyota4x4]

Just wanted to stop in again & say thank you, very much for all of the info you shared and help you gave me! It's lit up like a Christmas back there when I need it and in mellow red when I don't... I get tons of compliments and many have used that idea and some of the things that I've added as well... I make sure to give you all the credit for motivating me and giving me the idea in the first place.

Thanks, Bryan!...Sick snd very useful / practical mod.

 

[bryan89]

No problem. We are all here for the purpose of dispersing cool ideas. Glad to help.

im glad it worked out for you.
If you have one, post a pic of the finished product, or a link to it.

Thanks,

 

[chefyota4x4]

Here ya go, Bryan... (I, ll post up more with some close ups, etc, after I get to my PC and see what all I've already posted)....



All 3 seen in the rear are tied to the door lock detection switch. Door/Off/On capability back there rocks! Lol.... The 2 on the custom side panels are from 2nd gen 4Runner cargo/rear domes... The one in the rear wiper motor cover is a front most dome from a 2nd Gen 4Runner....

I also added a 2nd Gen Pickup rear view mirror Dome...... ( it is connected to the dome light circuit and has 'door/off/on' functions as well)....



Figured I should add 72" total of LED offroad lights to the thing, too, haha....





I put the above light bars on after these.... XK Glow 18 pod rock light kit with remote....







I am mostly done for now... But I would like to add and engine bay light that will be adequate for roadside work or on the trail. I have a Supra engine light that I might use. They would come on when you open the hood as a button would be released and complete the ground. It could also be removed and hung from the top. However, I would rather have fixed lights on the hood itself. Any ideas?