Broken AHC Accumulator Bleed Screw

[benatzen]

Title is pretty indicative of the issue, but the TLDR is I snapped off the bleeder valve on my AHC accumulator the last time I bled the system/changed the fluid. This was ~1 year ago or more and the system operates mostly fine. Ride is fine unless we're going on longer drives on the highway (on one atm), where the rear end sinks slowly over the course of like 15 min or more, and then the accumulator kicks in and lifts the rear back to a normal height. Cycling at a standstill between the height modes sometimes works, though it seems to not work more than it works.

My question is: is it possible to fix/replace the bleeder screw on the compressor? Should I even bother?

Longer explanation of my situation: I'm trying to decide if I should try and fix the AHC or just rip it out. When I did the AHC height/health test several years ago (pic attached) everything was fine and I was able to get the pressures in spec. I've checked pressures roughly yearly since, and save when I'm loaded down for a big trip everything is fine. I put in bags in the rear for such trips and the pressures seem fine during this, but even with the bags inflated it will still sag and reset itself when driving a long ways (over an hour at highway speeds). I have not replaced the globes so I would assume they're original. My best guess to the issue is that there is air in the system causing the sagging over time that I can't get out without bleeding, but there very well could be other issues masked by that. My front passenger side shock used to weep, though with the torsion bars cranked it hasn't done so nearly as much if at all. I do have a spare shock I bought when I thought the one was busted, but when it stopped weeping I just left it on. I also have some fluid so probably could get away with at least one more fluid replacement without sinking more money into the AHC system.

I don't do any hardcore offroading, mostly just "touring" or otherwise "long highway trips with the occasional fire service road". So while offroad performance is nice onroad is more of a concern which is why I've kept the AHC thusfar. I love the system but it's really the only thing I worry about breaking on my cruiser which is why I'm wondering if it should go the way of the dodo bird. Seems like people like the Ironman Foam Cell kit but they're currently out of stock. I reached out to Ironman support to see when they'll be back in stock, and am heavily leaning going that route as I think I'm going to add a front bumper and maybe a rear and fear overloading the AHC and doing more damage than has already been done.

I'm normally just outside Denver but on a road trip to Louisiana for the next couple weeks. I have no worries about getting home, just wondering what to do when I get there. I've heard tell of LC wizard mechanics in the Denver area so if anyone knows one with more knowledge than I on the AHC system that would be sick. I'm fairly comfortable working on the old girl but when I got to "drill out a bleeder screw on a pressurized cylinder" I figured that might be a sign I needed to ask for advice

Thanks for the help y'all!!

More fun topics outside the main question I have:

1. Front Bumpers - best choice for Deer/elk damage prevention?
   1. Thinking ARB or IronMan are probably my best options. I don't wheel a ton so not as concerned with that, just would prefer to not total her on a deer/elk driving through the mountains.
   2. Anyone know how/where to source an ARB bumper in Denver?
   3. Anyone hit something serious with an aluminum bumper? I've seem some sick ones from Dissent, but not sure if it would hold up to hitting a deer. I'm fine replacing the bumper if I hit something, just not sure if it would be sufficient to prevent frame/radiator damage.
2. Rear Bumpers - seems like swingouts would be annoying, but maybe it's not that bad? Anyone have strong opinions for or against?
3. Rust prevention - It's a Colorado cruiser so she's pretty clean, but a couple of spots have crept up on the bottom of the doors and from rock chips. Thinking of doing an undercoat before I leave Colorado, but would appreciate any input on tips to do so.
   1. Also would be sick if anyone has linex'ed the bottom 1/4 of the doors. Can't find examples of it but seems like a good way to prevent rust in the future outside the normal rust prevention kits.
4. Transmission fluid replacement - to do or not to do?
   1. TLDR inspection I got when I bought her said it wasn't done and recommended it. I've heard that you never need to change the fluid so just kept rolling as is and we've made it 50k miles that way. Now trying to decide if I need to actually change the fluid to get another 200k miles out of her.

Notes on the rig:
2004 LX470
228,xxx miles (though this is higher as I put larger tires on at 178k miles and didn't recalibrate the speedo...)
2021 and around 180k miles: timing belt and water pump, cv axles repacked, diff fluid replacement, coolant replacement, wheel bearings, front brakes.
275/60r18 BFG KO2's

 

[SteveH]

I wouldn't be afraid to drill out the snapped bleeder, but you might buy a spare, used part on Mud or eBay first to have on hand if things go poorly.


Also would be sick if anyone has linex'ed the bottom 1/4 of the doors.

LineX would seal in the rust and not play well with the door cladding. IMO, LineX is the worst thing you can apply to the exterior of any street-driven vehicle that will see moisture, salt, etc. Eventually, your vehicle becomes a LineX shell holding rust chips in place.

I removed my door cladding to find that all the carbon steel clips rusted away (virtually all of them), even in Colorado. I ended up gluing the cladding to new clips with urethane adhesive. The cladding is pretty much a pain, any way you slice it.

 

[benatzen]

Wouldn't there be pressure behind the bleeder? Seems like there are units on eBay for not crazy prices so might be worth a shot. Just worried about overloading the AHC with bumpers and added weight, but maybe worth trying to salvage it if I can.

And for the rust, I'd obviously pre-treat the areas to get rid of any active rust with the goal of coating it to prevent any future rust from forming. Though it it's inevitable either way might just be a rinse-and-repeat process every couple of years to keep the rust at bay. It's not the clips that are rusting, but the bottoms of the door panels themselves. I can get a pic tomorrow when the light is back out and post here for reference.

 

[Petertn45]

Wouldn't there be pressure behind the bleeder? Seems like there are units on eBay for not crazy prices so might be worth a shot. Just worried about overloading the AHC with bumpers and added weight, but maybe worth trying to salvage it if I can.

And for the rust, I'd obviously pre-treat the areas to get rid of any active rust with the goal of coating it to prevent any future rust from forming. Though it it's inevitable either way might just be a rinse-and-repeat process every couple of years to keep the rust at bay. It's not the clips that are rusting, but the bottoms of the door panels themselves. I can get a pic tomorrow when the light is back out and post here for reference.

There are several threads about this if you haven’t searched, and some have warned about pressure behind the bleed screw. Honestly, I have left mine alone for years (>5) because of this exact problem not knowing how forceful the screw or fluid will come out. The angle and small working space also makes it somewhat more difficult.