Brake system swap
- Thread starter Timmytorq
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kiley7483
New project
S10 works great if You are poor like me
The toughest part of a pre- 69 conversion is changing out the brake lines from 9mm to 10mm. As for the complete system, there are several solutions out there. If you do a search here on the sight, you will find that everybody swears by the solution they used, and disparages everyone else's.
I used JTO, and have been extremely happy. Man-a-fre has a similar system to JTO, but as I said, read all the threads and then try and find a solution that works for you.
I used JTO, and have been extremely happy. Man-a-fre has a similar system to JTO, but as I said, read all the threads and then try and find a solution that works for you.
- Thread starter
- #4
I was actually looking at that set up last night. It does not show a power break booster with that package. Did you put one on your cruiser? If so, what did you use and how difficult was it to set up the brake pedal and firewall modification? I am looking at picking up a set of metal brake lines from cruiser corps 371 to 75 cruiser which I’ve been told will work with this set up. Mine are currently 9 mm which I’ve been told I need 10 mm For the system to function properly.
hi, with the older ball & claw type front end, a swap from a disk fj40 axle will most likely be the fastest way to do an upgrade to a disk system. you will also want to upgrade your brake master cylinder to a dual reservoir set up. I grabbed one from a '96 geo metro but any small car will probably work. If you have a rib next to your old MC, you'll need a bracket to clear the rib or cut the rib. if you do the bracket you'll need to extend the push rod to the pedal attachment. if you put rear disks, you can get the set up from poser (MUD vendor & guru of fj40's). you'll also need a proportioning valve for the rear to front disk balance.
good luck, ty
good luck, ty
There are several ways to deal with the rib. However, as mentioned before, a spacer is the easiest, though just cutting a portion of the rib can also work. If you do both front and rear, and use an FJ80 (92-93) master cylinder, you do not need a proportioning valve. As for boosters, the OEM booster from a 74 is still available. That is what I used. It is smaller than most of the other solutions, and does an excellent job. Of all the things I have done to my 69, the disc brake conversion is by far the best.
- Thread starter
- #7
I can't answer that, as I had swapped out my pedal assembly years ago. Somebody else could chime in
This thread may be of help to you:
Rigger's disc brake conversion
Perhaps this one, too:
Hard Ways - Rigger's 1970 FJ40
Rigger's disc brake conversion
Perhaps this one, too:
Hard Ways - Rigger's 1970 FJ40
redeye
SILVER Star
@Rigger, jumping here to thank you for the great posts. Similar to the OP, I just got a 71 and want to do a 4 wheel disk conversion. I've got a LOT of reading to do, and a lot of planning and purchasing ahead of me.
Not trying to hijack, so if anyone wants me to start a new thread LMK. But, is it necessary to swap in a different master cylinder? Or can the original one in my 71 be used and just add an aftermarket proportioning valve?
Not trying to hijack, so if anyone wants me to start a new thread LMK. But, is it necessary to swap in a different master cylinder? Or can the original one in my 71 be used and just add an aftermarket proportioning valve?
hiya,
if your current MC is the older single reservoir one, you want to upgrade to one that has a dual reservoir because they have dual lines, one for the front and one for the rear. It's much safer than a single as you have another line just in case one line, and that part of the MC, goes bad.
best, ty
redeye
SILVER Star
