Brake problem (1 Viewer)

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picture of the of the master cylinder. If there is a little bolt possibly on the bottom, then whomever rebuilt or put together the master might not have put the piston in the correct spot thus not allowing it to go the full stroke.


How did you reset the position of the bolt, did you push on the plunger till it passed the bolt hole then reinstall the pin/bolt, just curious?
 
How did you reset the position of the bolt, did you push on the plunger till it passed the bolt hole then reinstall the pin/bolt, just curious?
I did not touch the bolt. It is in the same position as I got it. Do I need to reset it?
 
I was more interested in the two guys that suggested you check it and how they actually decided it was wrong and then reset it. I have had similar problems with Master cylinder conversions but it usually has to do with properly adjusting the length of the plungers between the pedal
and the booster and the booster and the master cylinder. then bleed the crap out of the system. I have gravity bled systems with good luck and sometimes had problems getting the air out, who knows. Seems like anytime you hybrid parts together or use spacers it can be a challenge to get them to work together correctly.
 
the plunger would not be set in the master if it did not bottom out. which in this scenario was stated it would bottom out while bleeding. I can confirm my brakes are hard until the booster kicks in with the same setup, 62 booster and same master. If the plunger won't go all the way down while bleeding then it is most likely not set in the master correctly and the keeper bolt needs to be removed while pushing down on the pedal. If you just push with your foot you can tear and destroy the piston inside ruining the rubber seal. At that point if you have a master with two separate cups you will see the fluid go between the cups and not out the hard lines. Does that help Larry?
 

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