Does anyone know where to find a good brake pad DIY guide for a 95 80? I'm a little of a rookie when it comes to brakes. Thanks!
Brake Pad DIY? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Gammarho1
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This is one place the Hayne's cheapo manual is actually helpful. Pictures and step by step instructions on DIY pad replacement.
Easier still, dig in and go for it. 2 caliper bolts, compress the cylinder back in with the old pads still in place using a c-clamp, and then pluck the pads and replace with new ones... it's pretty simple. I would give it a 1 banana....
Good luck
Easier still, dig in and go for it. 2 caliper bolts, compress the cylinder back in with the old pads still in place using a c-clamp, and then pluck the pads and replace with new ones... it's pretty simple. I would give it a 1 banana....
Good luck
- Thread starter
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Haha. I appreciate the confidence. I'll be repeating the one banana to myself as I sit in my driveway watching people walk by on their way to the beach. I'm determined to be done in an hour!
Bloomer
SILVER Star
Rotors
Are you turning the rotors? I wonder how much more trouble it is to take off the rotors and have them turned.
Are you turning the rotors? I wonder how much more trouble it is to take off the rotors and have them turned.
bit more, since the rotors are bolted to the hubs. you have to pull the hub dial, c clip, hub body, spindle nuts/washers, then main hubs, unbolt the rotors and possible press out lug studs (never done an 80 so not sure how snug they are).
I'm thinking you may not be aware of the 80 Series FAQs? Sticky thread at the top of the 80-Series Tech section:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/84888-faq-80-lx450-aug-2010-added-hood-vents-louvers.html
LOTS of valuable and helpful information in there including links to the thread arndog linked to and this one:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/81098-brake-flush.html#post962781
Personally, I'd get at the very least the Haynes manual but preferably the Toyota FSM.
That said, assuming you don't have any other issues, replacing the front and rear brake pads is a pretty simple job. Of course if you run into other issues that simple job could get a lot more involved.
Things to consider are do you need to have the rotors turned? If so, then try to find a local brake place that can turn the rotors (at least the fronts) on the vehicle. Here in Colorado Brakes Plus can do that. Removing the rotors is a LOT more involved and if you get to that point you might as well just go ahead and do the full front axle service because you are 1/2 way or more there. Sucks to do things twice if you can avoid it IMO.
Usually when you muck with the brakes you end up needing to bleed them. Not difficult with the right tools (buddy to do it the manual way or a power bleeder for one person operation, flare nut wrench, etc.) but the 80 series brakes can be difficult to bleed for whatever reason.
I encourage folks to wrench on their own rigs and learn. I had never replaced brake pads, bled brakes, replaced rotors, etc. until a couple years ago. But, stuff doesn't always go smoothly so if you aren't up to tackling potential problems you might be better off just taking it to a reputable shop. Heck, some places (in CO at least) offer free lifetime brake pad warranties and 80s eat front brake pads...You typically still have to pay for the labor each time the pads are replaced but maybe that is the best avenue for you to take. In CO I always had good luck with Midas with my other cars till I bought my 80s and started learning to do the work myself.
I just started to replace a brake hose, and it turned into replacing both hoses, both calipers, both rotors, sue to rust and wear. I had to clean and repack the bearings as well. Not really hard to do, just turned into a very large project when all I had planned was a simple hose. Be prepared to keep on going.....
CycloSteve
SILVER Star
Did my front and rear pads today with OEM greens. Replaced all of the clips, etc. too while in there. Decided to leave the rotors alone, as they were still in spec, and just did not want to break into the front hubs at this point. Planning on new rotors next time around, plus going to 100 pads in the front; just could not justify spending an extra $300+ on rotors at this point.
Noticed that the brake lines look like they are the originals @ 160k miles. No cracks or bad wear, but some flaking of what looked to be clear-coat on the surface. Cleaned off with simple green and a toothbrush. Debating with self to go with OEM longer ones from CDan, or Slee SS or MAF SS...need to bleed the system and purge of the older fluid anyway. The brakes feel fine, I just would rather baseline that fluid while I am in there.
As others noted, the actual replacement of the pads was a piece of cake. My only complaint is with the whole adjustment of the POS parking brake. The FSM is seriously lacking in explaining the whole procedure, and will tackle that tomorrow using the RavenTai method.
Steve
Noticed that the brake lines look like they are the originals @ 160k miles. No cracks or bad wear, but some flaking of what looked to be clear-coat on the surface. Cleaned off with simple green and a toothbrush. Debating with self to go with OEM longer ones from CDan, or Slee SS or MAF SS...need to bleed the system and purge of the older fluid anyway. The brakes feel fine, I just would rather baseline that fluid while I am in there.
As others noted, the actual replacement of the pads was a piece of cake. My only complaint is with the whole adjustment of the POS parking brake. The FSM is seriously lacking in explaining the whole procedure, and will tackle that tomorrow using the RavenTai method.
Steve
This sounds like my past few days. I was just doing the rear pads, then it was the rotors and rebuilding the calipers, then saw the rust so now a new caliper.
I am getting afraid to look at the front.
