Brake issues on 79 series (1 Viewer)

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Howdy
brakes is one thing on Cars I'm not the best on. so,the brakes turned to snot on my cruiser , when I apply brakes most the the time pedal gos to the floor and I have to pump them to get braking. I'm not loosing fluid I've checkedmy pads they All are still nearlly new. the brake shop I asked said it's the master cyl so I changed that on saterday ,Bleed the brakes up so it's all new fluid and there still the same , what else can go wrong what else can I look at , I'm not sure about the shortys and middys etc but the utes have a valve in the rear part of the brak lines wig a arm to the diff so the more load/weight that gos on the tray the valve adjusts the brake % to front and back can these stuff up also . Thanks fellas
 
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Feb 1, 2004
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There is still air in it - same as mine - very hard to get the air out for some reason.
 
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Yea cambelt it's a new brand newy, on the old one it had a gasket between it and the booster but the new one didn't come with one but the new one has a rubber o ring seel , so as u push the matser in the boaster the rubber seal does it's job , Can that make a difference
ishobie mate if it's hard to get the air out if thats the issue what's ur secret to getting it right , can the boost fail the system some how?
And my little brake dash fault like stays on
 

Ron R

Drive a Landruiser, enjoy life
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I'm with Ishobie.

Make sure the valve in the rear (that sets the brakes according weight) is properly bled before bleeding the lines to the (rear-)brakes.
 
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Clint ,you also are supposed to bleed the wheels and load compensater in a particular order.
I forget whether its closest ot furtherest from the master cyl first.

I use a home made brake bleeder kit. A hose that fits tight over the bleeder nipple into a small Sprite bottle that is hung from the spring shackle.
The bottle is 1/4 filled with fluid so no air can be sucked back into the caliper
 
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Clint ,you also are supposed to bleed the wheels and load compensater in a particular order.
I forget whether its closest ot furtherest from the master cyl first.

I use a home made brake bleeder kit. A hose that fits tight over the bleeder nipple into a small Sprite bottle that is hung from the spring shackle.
The bottle is 1/4 filled with fluid so no air can be sucked back into the caliper

a mechanic mate said that the brakes should be bleed from the furtherest brake from the master so the left rear then the rhs rear front left front right but after they were still snot i asked him if it was at his work what else would he do and he said he didnt know:rolleyes:so ill leave it to my self and help from mudders i think. i didnt do the load comp so ill give it a crack this W.E
does your custom bleeder kit does the hose on the inside of the bottle go to the bottom
can u chuck a pik of ur cool invention up:D
 
Joined
Aug 17, 2007
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I would go with air in it.
Master Cylinder,Passenger, Rear, Drivers Rear, Passenger Front, Drivers Front and last the LSPV.is the correct order for bleeding I believe.
If the pedal is going to floor, its not the booster. The brakees would still work but you would have to press the brakes very hard to stop!, you ever been towed :)

I am surprised no one mentioned if the rear brakes are adjusted correctly, if the handbrake dont work then you can start at adjusting the brakes at the rear, usually pumping them when stationary they will stay hard, when the wheels get a bit of twisting and flexing the brakes can gradually collapse into the brake cylinder, forcing you to pump the pedal once to make them work.
If they are not adusted right in the first place then the self adjuster(drums rear) can fail as well, well I believe :)
Not had any expereience with drum fronts! mines drums rear and disc fronts.


Hope it helps and I am only going from my experiences so could be wrong!
 
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so thats the order cheers for your input mate
my hand brake is rat sht1 aswell just in the last few weeks died
I also forgot to mention i have disk brrake rear
 
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Hrevey Bay. QLD.
Brakes.

Hi Klint. i look after 13 hzj75. You have put a new master on thats good. The way i do it when the spunge sets in. Get a pice of clear hose that will go from the master to the left rear calliper. A size that fits neat on the bleder screw. You will need two people. open the bleader and hold the pipe on it. Put the other end in the top of the master and slowley keep pumping. [ If the fluid is old or dirty dont put it in the master until it comes clean] About 20 pumps on each one including the load valve. That is the way the local brake shop told me to fix air in the systom. It hasent failed yet. Your hand brake,``#*# i do have a method of making those rear disc brake ones work well, nearly skid the wheels on bitchy. If you need help with it, drop me a PM and i might do a thread on them. Cheers.
 
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Hi Klint. i look after 13 hzj75. You have put a new master on thats good. The way i do it when the spunge sets in. Get a pice of clear hose that will go from the master to the left rear calliper. A size that fits neat on the bleder screw. You will need two people. open the bleader and hold the pipe on it. Put the other end in the top of the master and slowley keep pumping. [ If the fluid is old or dirty dont put it in the master until it comes clean] About 20 pumps on each one including the load valve. That is the way the local brake shop told me to fix air in the systom. It hasent failed yet. Your hand brake,``#*# i do have a method of making those rear disc brake ones work well, nearly skid the wheels on bitchy. If you need help with it, drop me a PM and i might do a thread on them. Cheers.

Very cool Mate, can you post that rear drum set up as well please.
 
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Hmmm the dreaded brake problems.

My handbrake died and the red light came on and stayed on.

I am too scared to play with brakes, so I took it to my local toyota dealer (Bridge Toyota) their motto is where customers come first. They obviously dont put doign the job properly first, it took them 4 goes and it is still crap....

I too had spongies one time. It was a mix of old fluid moisture and then my poor bleeding. I only got it right by using two people
Let us know how you go,

Chris

Aussie 25
I wouldnt mind a thread on handbrakes though. Do you service the fraser island troopies there?
 
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The hand brake. [ Not the missers]

Yes i do work on those ones that go to Fraser Island. Next time i fit some new drums and shoes i will take some pickies of how i make them work. cheers.
 
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Yes i do work on those ones that go to Fraser Island. Next time i fit some new drums and shoes i will take some pickies of how i make them work. cheers.

Any of those working pics yet mate ?

I've finnally saved for my front diff (dam apprentice wages) so I pick that up on Tuesday or wed and will change that out . A few diff shops I've spoke to some said 4.3s and some said 4.1 s , both are in stock so I'll pull the nugget out and we can all now know what the pet 79s have ;)and pick the broken teeth out to , I'll be doing adjusting or finding the problem with the hand brake and also rebleeding the brakes to get a good pedal again , my old man got a hoist so I'm luckyenough to use be able to use it , saves rolling around on the cold floor lol
what are some good quallitty wheel bearing kits marswell do that while the front diffs apart ?
 
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No working picks, havent done a nother hand brake reline yet. 79 series, should be 4.3 diff. If it is a second hand diff, make sure the backlash is right on the minermum. The 4.3 seem a lot weaker than the 4.1. Cheers.
 
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No working picks, havent done a nother hand brake reline yet. 79 series, should be 4.3 diff. If it is a second hand diff, make sure the backlash is right on the minermum. The 4.3 seem a lot weaker than the 4.1. Cheers.

I'm getting new crown wheel and pinion with bearings etc, new from the diff shop, I'm going to pull the diff out , count the ratio , strip the nugget down and the diff place will reasemble the nugget do the preloaded back lash buisness that a litlle past me ATM

Any main reason why the 4.3 s are weaker
as for 4.3 or 4.1 in 79 series imput from other helpers and research I came up with turbo ds to have 4.1 and diesel to have 4.3 and petrol I've had both answers ?
 
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Oct 2, 2009
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Id love to know any handbrake upates , with new rotors and genuine handbrake shoes they arn,t too bad .
A lot of the mines vehicles get a hoppers stoppers upgrade kit that is a holden calliper and a tailshaft handbrake.
Dave
 
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Id love to know any handbrake upates , with new rotors and genuine handbrake shoes they arn,t too bad .
A lot of the mines vehicles get a hoppers stoppers upgrade kit that is a holden calliper and a tailshaft handbrake.
Dave


Not a bad idea mate how muc are the kits worth?
 

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