Body and engine swap questions

[rustfarmer]

Finally getting into several toyo truck projects, the first being reworking an 82 4 wheel drive truck with bad engine and body rot. My plan is to install a just built 22 re engine and the 2wd cab and bed that the engine came from. I notice that the frame to body mounts are about an inch further apart on the 2wd body (a 92 model) but I can fab something to cure that. Any other issues I should be aware of? Thinking of using a 1 or 2 inch body lift, and maybe cutting the front fenders or using 4wd fenders. I also have an 85 2wd and an 89 or 90 4wd cab but they are not as solid and rust free and am hoping to build one or both of these later. I want to use the 92 cab and all wiring to simplify the change to fuel injection. Thanks for any and all ideas/comments even like "you must have bumped your head".

 

[KLF]

I think I understand your project. Pretty ambitious...

You will have to swap oil pans & pickup tubes on the engine, the 2WD engine will have the sump in the front, you need it in the rear to clear the front axle. The pan from the '82 engine will probably fit, but be aware that pan is designed to work with a cork gasket, not FIPG like the '85+ engines use.

 

[rustfarmer]

Thanks

I noticed the pan difference and have the 92 engine on a stand ready to do the swap, but I did not know about the gasket issue. If I can make the cab fit the rest of the swap seems pretty straightforward. Lots to clean and paint, and two small rust outs at middle frame seams. I'm excited to get this as my other 4wd truck is a 76 3/4 ton chevy I just swapped a 82 1/2 ton diesel body onto and its a bit of a gas hog for daily use (400 sbc, 4.10 gears).

 

[Combat Chuck]

the gasket issue's not huge, it just means you may need the cork gasket, which is around ten bucks.

Good luck!

 

[rustfarmer]

Thanks. Any ideas about the 2wd body on a 4wd frame? Will 4wd fenders bolt up to the 2wd cab without mods? Is it easier to cut the body mounts off the frame and move them as needed, or? Also, the splined bottom part of the steering shaft which slips over the steering box input shaft broke as I removed it. No biggie as I will be using the one from the new cab, but is this the weak part mentioned in the recall section? Seems to be cast iron and wonder if their is a trick to removing it without damage. I had used a chisel as a wedge to open it a bit at the slot and guess I went to far and split the sucker in to two halfs.