Build BJ42 Restoration

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Turned out better than I hoped, I’ll give it a final top coat of Cygnus White 033 and that’s done. I need a new head liner, so I ripped out the old one and then went shopping…$450 for a headliner is highway robbery, shoulda worked the old one over in hindsight.
On another note I’ve been waiting 3 years for a painter to finish painting the panels and line everything up, last month I found a guy that’s willing to do it for a price that I can live with. Hopefully you his overdue project will be moving along.

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Turned out better than I hoped, I’ll give it a final top coat of Cygnus White 033 and that’s done. I need a new head liner, so I ripped out the old one and then went shopping…$450 for a headliner is highway robbery, shoulda worked the old one over in hindsight.
On another note I’ve been waiting 3 years for a painter to finish painting the panels and line everything up, last month I found a guy that’s willing to do it for a price that I can live with. Hopefully you his overdue project will be moving along.

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Don’t judge the welds, it broke 3 times and I just kept welding over top, I was in too much of a hurry to put the welding lid on so I did it with my eyes close, and that’s exactly what it looks like haha!
 
Hi there Mr. Wrench, really glad to see your back at it. I don’t think it too serious. What I think might be happening is a build up of corrosion on the contacts in the EDIC relay box. as well as that possibility there are contacts in the EDIC gear box that may not be contacting well but I’d go for the relay box first. last thing is really good grounds.
cheers,
Rob
Edic relay and arm: if it's what i'm thinking then yank the arm right off, it can go on again easily. you will need to stall it to shut the motor off or put in pull cable to choke the fuel. Your diesel may also be starting to jell so pre heat a few times before starting then add some fresh diesel and some octane boost. Glad to see your back at it ! I'm in the process of reviewing my drawings for my second gen stainless tub but work has delayed the process. Keep at it you are motivating us all !
 
Today’s project was it reinstall that front valance for the windshield to room interface. I made a post for backing the Aircraft Rivets and to hold them in place while I mushroomed the pin with a drift. I had to use pop rivets on the 2 very outside corners until my Sikaflex
Sealer cures and then I’ll drill them out and install the factory rivets. I also bought 2 very large C clamp style visegrips to push the metal down to squish the sealer and secure it until I could rivet it.

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Today’s project was it reinstall that front valance for the windshield to room interface. I made a post for backing the Aircraft Rivets and to hold them in place while I mushroomed the pin with a drift. I had to use pop rivets on the 2 very outside corners until my Sikaflex
Sealer cures and then I’ll drill them out and install the factory rivets. I also bought 2 very large C clamp style visegrips to push the metal down to squish the sealer and secure it until I could rivet it.

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In school, when we made a Dommer, we heated the end cherry red and then hammered down on a 1/4" bearing to round out the divot so that the end of the rivet will be smoother.

We also made a fetcher to help make sure the rivet is tight. With copper rivets we usually used a washer on the domer side.
 
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