Steel said:
Hello All,
I am finishing up redoing the brakes. I have replaced all the hard and rubber lines with stainless steel, I had the booster rebuilt and I just got a new master cylinder. So I am wondering what is the best method to bleed the M/C and lines? Is there a kit to use that anyone can recommend?
Thanks
Bolt up the booster and master.
Take some of your old hard line, cut it about 6 inches back from the the fitting, screw these short stubs of hard line into the M/C.
Bend the stubs of line so that they go back into the fluid resevoirs, about 3/4 or 1/2 the way to the bottom.
Fill up resevoirs with fluid and slowly pump the pedal until there are no more air bubbles coming out of the tube.
Unscrew your bleeder lines, screw in real lines.
Now you need an assistant. Note: Go buy a Line Wrench from Napa or sears before doing this if you don't have one, even though you are working with new lines stripping the fittings sucks.
Take an empty coke bottle, drill/cut a hole in the top , take a rubber (I prefer clear) hose and stick it down in the bottle near the bottom. Fill bottle about an inch above the bottom of hose with brake fluid. (the whole idea is to allow you to see when no more air is coming out, and to prevent any air from escaping back into the wheel cylinder).
Starting at PS rear wheel, (furthest from M/C) and working your way closer,
Stick the other end on the bleeder valve on the wheel cylinder you are working on, have assistant pump pedal 3-5 times and hold, break bleeder valve, when fluid stops flowing, close back, then repeat until no more air bubbles are coming out of the tube. Since all your stuff is new, it may take a while.
This is how we do every single truck in the LC shop I work at.
IMHO If I was you I would go ahead and replace all my pads, shoes, wheel cylinders, and have my drums or rotors as the case may be, turned. No point in doing 3/4 of the job.
