I'm attempting to swap in a lower milage engine(3.0 V6) in my '90 toyota pu. Before it goes in I'm going to do timing belt, water pump and oil seals. I'm having trouble getting the crankshaft pulley off. My impact gun won't take it off. I have a 3/4 drive ratchet that has a 24" long handle, and have a big piece of aluminum covered in cloth wedged between the counterweight and the block. i can't get it to budge. I'm thinking of putting a pipe on the end of it but I'm afraid it's going to break something. It shouldn't take this much force to loosen this bolt. Anybody run into this before. Thanks in advance.
Before I break something!
- Thread starter Mpowered1
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I think before doing that, I would go a different route.
Did you try some heat on the bolt? Not too much, you don't want to start melting the rubber damper in the pulley.
If that doesn't work, I would start grinding. I would take a grinder and cut as much off the end of the bolt as possible, then grind away as much as possible. Eventually you'll probably find that the grinder won't be able to reach into the middle of the pulley, so I would then start drilling dead center on the end. Start small, say 3/16" or so, with a nice sharp bit. Then work your way up to about 1/2". You're trying to get the big float piece off the end of the bolt, it sounds to me like it's rusted to the pulley. I think once you get that big flat part free and the tension off the threads, you'l be able to slide the pulley/balancer off, then the stub left over will come right out.
Good luck.
Did you try some heat on the bolt? Not too much, you don't want to start melting the rubber damper in the pulley.
If that doesn't work, I would start grinding. I would take a grinder and cut as much off the end of the bolt as possible, then grind away as much as possible. Eventually you'll probably find that the grinder won't be able to reach into the middle of the pulley, so I would then start drilling dead center on the end. Start small, say 3/16" or so, with a nice sharp bit. Then work your way up to about 1/2". You're trying to get the big float piece off the end of the bolt, it sounds to me like it's rusted to the pulley. I think once you get that big flat part free and the tension off the threads, you'l be able to slide the pulley/balancer off, then the stub left over will come right out.
Good luck.
i just put my pipe in the right postion against the frame and the nut came right off with the turn/crank of the key
It's kinda hard to do that when the engine is sitting on a stand in the middle of your garage (BTDT).
But I suppose that is potentially another solution: put the engine in the truck, hook up the battery, and bust it loose with the starter. Don't be surprised if it takes 2 or 3 batteries to make enough torque at the starter to get it to pop loose.
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success
I finally got it to come off. Lots of heat, leverage and penatrating fluid. Had to buy a small Oxy/map gas torch to get it hot enough. Never had a bolt that my impact couldn't take off. Grinding or cutting it off would have been an absolute last resort.
I finally got it to come off. Lots of heat, leverage and penatrating fluid. Had to buy a small Oxy/map gas torch to get it hot enough. Never had a bolt that my impact couldn't take off. Grinding or cutting it off would have been an absolute last resort.
Good you got it off!
I always do the starter bust the bolt loose trick before pulling the motor. Way easier!
With that said, they are supposed to be tight, about 160 ft. lbs. IIRC
I always do the starter bust the bolt loose trick before pulling the motor. Way easier!
With that said, they are supposed to be tight, about 160 ft. lbs. IIRC
Agreed.
Glad to hear you got it off.
I had to do sort of the opposite with my FJ62, the front crank bolt (actually a nut) is supposed to get something like 230 ft-lbs on it. The tranny was out of the truck (not that it would have been able to help), and I had no way to hold the crank. The pan was off at the time, so in desperation I shoved a couple of 2x4's between the crank and block. Kinda scary, but it worked.